Exhaust Wrap with manifold on?
Discussion
Was thinking of insulating the manifold before driving the Griff to Italy but not a lot of time left to do it. (Don't really want roasted feet!)
Is it possible to wrap them without removing the manifold?
I'm not currently with the car but I have a feeling that pots 1 and 2 are going to be quite inaccessible.
Failing that I'll just put a few spuds in the foot well. At least I'll have some roasties for when I arrive!
(or wrap my feet with insulating material! lol)
Is it possible to wrap them without removing the manifold?
I'm not currently with the car but I have a feeling that pots 1 and 2 are going to be quite inaccessible.
Failing that I'll just put a few spuds in the foot well. At least I'll have some roasties for when I arrive!
(or wrap my feet with insulating material! lol)
1 & 2 are easy, 7 & 8 are the nasty ones.
It is possible but much easier to do when they're off. Perhaps rather than doing a 'complete' job do enough to help and then complete at a later date.
Also get the wrap wet before you apply which keeps the fibres down and helps to get it tighter after application.
It is possible but much easier to do when they're off. Perhaps rather than doing a 'complete' job do enough to help and then complete at a later date.
Also get the wrap wet before you apply which keeps the fibres down and helps to get it tighter after application.
Edited by Johno on Monday 18th August 15:22
Yes you can; bit of a faff though. How many fingers ya got? Budget on an afternoons work.
Johno said:
Also get the wrap wet before you apply which keeps the fibres down and helps to get it tighter after application.
Never thought of that, probably helps prevent gettin' itchy forearms too! Tut, Waz!Edited by Johno on Monday 18th August 15:22
It can easily be done; allow a couple of hours to do each side.
I used bent wire coat hangers to retrieve the wrap by hooking it and pulling it up.
It's probably easier in the sense that the manifold is held firmly in place so you can pull the wrap tight. You also risk damaging the wrap if you have to replace the manifold with it on.
Although in theory doing it wet is the best way, in practice you'll get water everywhere. If you do it dry though, I seriously recommend you wear a suitable mask and get good ventilation. The amount of tiny glass fibres that float around (and then settle everywhere) is scary. Oh and whatever you wear to do it in will be prickly for at least the next three washes...
See: http://s355.photobucket.com/albums/r451/Griffter/?...
I used bent wire coat hangers to retrieve the wrap by hooking it and pulling it up.
It's probably easier in the sense that the manifold is held firmly in place so you can pull the wrap tight. You also risk damaging the wrap if you have to replace the manifold with it on.
Although in theory doing it wet is the best way, in practice you'll get water everywhere. If you do it dry though, I seriously recommend you wear a suitable mask and get good ventilation. The amount of tiny glass fibres that float around (and then settle everywhere) is scary. Oh and whatever you wear to do it in will be prickly for at least the next three washes...
See: http://s355.photobucket.com/albums/r451/Griffter/?...
Thanks everyone, good info as usual.
Do you know how much is needed? and what size makes life easiest, 1"? 2"?
To save me shopping round the usual suspects (Frost, Demon tweaks, Google shopping etc) can anyone recommend a stockist?
Thank you, from the bottom of my feet!
Do you know how much is needed? and what size makes life easiest, 1"? 2"?
To save me shopping round the usual suspects (Frost, Demon tweaks, Google shopping etc) can anyone recommend a stockist?
Thank you, from the bottom of my feet!
Edited by DustyC on Monday 18th August 23:02
350Matt said:
Once thing to mention is don't do the wrap unless you have stainless manifolds, it will rot a mild steel manifold quicker than you realise
Otherwise go for it, a very worthwhile mod
Matt
Or maybe use this?Otherwise go for it, a very worthwhile mod
Matt
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDeta...
I've heard of it before but don't know if its actually any good.
edited to add:
But with out removing the manifolds that could make it very messy! lol!
Edited by DustyC on Monday 18th August 23:12
Demon Tweeks are expensive.
You could try here.......
http://www.exhaustwrap.com/
I went with DEi when I did the Buell. The packaging has written on it a pretty accurate method of measuring.
It's a while since I did the Buell but my guess would be you'll need two 50 meter rolls at 2 inch width. I overlapped about an inch, which I think looks better than overlapping 1/2 inch on a 1 inch width.
You could try here.......
http://www.exhaustwrap.com/
I went with DEi when I did the Buell. The packaging has written on it a pretty accurate method of measuring.
It's a while since I did the Buell but my guess would be you'll need two 50 meter rolls at 2 inch width. I overlapped about an inch, which I think looks better than overlapping 1/2 inch on a 1 inch width.
Don't wrap. Very bad for headers, particularly on TVRs.
Rots them out inside 18mths.
Short journeys in the winter will actually hold moisture in the header/as will a damp garage.
Best to ceramic coat them nowadays. Not as expensive as you think, looks LOADS better (they'll now do about 6 colours) and will be far more effective over time.
Both particularly effective on heat soak. Reducing temps to normal far quicker after stopping than std. This is when the most damage is done to electrics etc.
Running temps don't change that much. and the areas that are closest to the bodywork and therefore transmit the most heat are a bngger to get to unless you remove the headers anyway.
see here on the Racesport Sagaris GT3
Rots them out inside 18mths.
Short journeys in the winter will actually hold moisture in the header/as will a damp garage.
Best to ceramic coat them nowadays. Not as expensive as you think, looks LOADS better (they'll now do about 6 colours) and will be far more effective over time.
Both particularly effective on heat soak. Reducing temps to normal far quicker after stopping than std. This is when the most damage is done to electrics etc.
Running temps don't change that much. and the areas that are closest to the bodywork and therefore transmit the most heat are a bngger to get to unless you remove the headers anyway.
see here on the Racesport Sagaris GT3
There is cheap wrap on Ebay but some of the stuff I've seen is more plumbing industry (which probably works) than high temp automotive. I went with DEi so I knew there was no question of quality. I've seen some wrap look like Nora Batty's stockings after a week on the pi55. Not that I'd know what Nor.........
2Munkys said:
Never had an issue of corrosion on my OE headers (God only knows what that material spec is) and my car is kept out of doors under a cover all year; well, except when I'm driving it.
Cheapest place for wrap is e.bay.
Its the old story Bruce...Cheapest place for wrap is e.bay.
"ya won't know if they'll blow...until they do!"
Risky tho...
ncs said:
They look great, but does anyone know if they do them in pink for Dusty?
Nick
Nick is this right? I'm confused now. I thought that pinking an engine was not a good thing.Nick
Is pink back in again now.
Is it true that just turning the dizzy can make your engine pink?
If so what makes the rest of the car pink?
Del 203 said:
ncs said:
Poor boy, obviously not as teknikerly minded as the rest of us.
Hope to see you soon mate, you must pop round & remind me what a blue Griff looks like.
Nick
Not as fast as silver Hope to see you soon mate, you must pop round & remind me what a blue Griff looks like.
Nick
HTH
Nick,
Hope nothing bad happened to the twin sister Griff! Email me if you want.
Hope all's well.
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