Griffith Radiator Removal?
Griffith Radiator Removal?
Author
Discussion

Colin RedGriff

Original Poster:

2,541 posts

287 months

Sunday 7th September 2008
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Hi

Need to take the radiator out of my Griff 500 as it is weeping slightly. Have a new one to replace it with but struggling to actually remove it. I've cleared out the washer bottle and bracket, all the pipes and the expansion tank and the alarm siren and air hose.

The radiator is loose and I can tilt it back but it does not seem to have enough room to tilt to clear the bodywork. It appears that the anti-roll bar mounts are getting in the way.

Have stopped for this evening and so thought I'd post on here to see if anyone can tell me if it is necessary to remove the ARB mounts. I've read the bible section and it doesn't mention removeing the ARB. It does mention removing the fans and cowling but it implies that the radiator can be removed with them still attached. I've had a look at the cowls and they are bolted top and bottom so I will try and remove them if I can get to the bottom bolts.

I'll have another go tomorrow but would value some advice about what needs to come out.

crackedfinger

1,569 posts

259 months

Sunday 7th September 2008
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Try rotating the radiator bring the bottom up and pulling out upside down. Worked for me.

paul2000

743 posts

250 months

Sunday 7th September 2008
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HI took mine out not to long ago you have to take it out bottum end first if rad is ready to take out as you say it is pull rad as high up as you can then lift out from the bottom make sure you put sheet on body work so you don,t mark body work when you take out it is a bit of a it is a bit of a pigs ear but it will come out hope this helps paul

budd

407 posts

298 months

Sunday 7th September 2008
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as said above be real carefull with the paint I managed to chip a piece out of the lip of the nose cone when I did minefuriousso I recommend you tape up the area to avoid damage.

Hedgehopper

1,542 posts

274 months

Monday 8th September 2008
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As said before , it comes out bottom first and with the fans on. There is no need to touch the ARB brackets either. It is also much heavier than you might expect. Can't remember if you have to remove the air filter housing to allow the rad. to be lifted. Good luck.

Colin RedGriff

Original Poster:

2,541 posts

287 months

Monday 8th September 2008
quotequote all
thanks guys - I'll try and see if I can remove it bottom end first tonight.

ESDavey

713 posts

249 months

Monday 8th September 2008
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You need to remove the air filter & Air Filter cowling. Good time to replace with a K&N inc smooth bore induction (still only got 258bhp at the Growl though !!)

Full Throttle

176 posts

266 months

Monday 8th September 2008
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Alot of patience! Alot of Sweat, and a stiff back! Joking aside, put masking tape on the body work, to make sure you dont scratch it, drop the top the rad in first then twist it up from the bottom to the top and the bottom will fall in. Also take out any alarm or washer bottle brackets. And put the fans back on when the rad is in situ. Good luck! Its a fun Job!

Thats how to put it back in, reverse of above to get it out

HRG

72,863 posts

269 months

Monday 8th September 2008
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You missed the bit about the osteopath hehe

Colin RedGriff

Original Poster:

2,541 posts

287 months

Monday 8th September 2008
quotequote all
Thanks guys rad safely out. New rad in tomorrow once I've tidied up a few bits and pieces.

Colin