How do I get the old brake pads off?
How do I get the old brake pads off?
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lockhart flawse

Original Poster:

2,103 posts

265 months

Sunday 5th October 2008
quotequote all
I am trying to fit new rear brake pads to my car. First time I have attemped to do anything to it and I am not a natural with this sort of thing.Nothing in the bible or returned by the search function.

Got the pads, jacked up the car and got the wheel off. So far so good. But I can't see how to get the old pads out.

What do I do next?

L.F.

350Matt

3,903 posts

309 months

Sunday 5th October 2008
quotequote all
Easiest way is to remove the two M8 bolts (13mm hex head)which hold the top half of the calliper onto the sliding posts.
You'll need a 15mm spanner to hold the other side of the post but once both bolts are out you should be able to swing the working / piston part of the calliper away and get to the pads

Matt

chrispitman

742 posts

284 months

Sunday 5th October 2008
quotequote all
When putting back together you need to wind the piston back in, apply quite a bit of force and turn at the same time (watch the level in the resivior it many overflow). You also need to align the pison surface so the key (TAG) on the back of the pad lines up other wise it will not drop down far enough.

lockhart flawse

Original Poster:

2,103 posts

265 months

Sunday 5th October 2008
quotequote all
Thanks a lot.

Old pads now off but I am struggling to push back the piston. Should I have taken the top of the brake fluid reservoir off? When you said "turn" do you mean push it whilst turning it?

Edited by lockhart flawse on Sunday 5th October 11:48

nicktowe

46,511 posts

254 months

Sunday 5th October 2008
quotequote all
lockhart flawse said:
Thanks a lot.

Old pads now off but I am struggling to push back the piston. Should I have taken the top of the brake fluid reservoir off? When you said "turn" do you mean push it whilst turning it?

Edited by lockhart flawse on Sunday 5th October 11:48
I would use a piston wind back tool...available from halfords

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Sunday 5th October 2008
quotequote all
I did mine on the V8S (the same) with a long nosed pair of pliers pushing and turning at the same time - but it took a lot of force and wasn't easy.
You need some substantial long nose pliers - if they are too skinny they bend and twist too much.

I found once I got it moving it got easier.

Also note that you need to line up the cutouts in the caliper piston to engage with the lug on the back of the pads (I think this is right from memory I'm a bit vague)

Chris

Edited by Barkychoc on Sunday 5th October 12:11

GreenV8S

31,020 posts

314 months

Sunday 5th October 2008
quotequote all
If you're in a hurry you only actually need to undo one of the sliders as the caliper will pivot around the other so you can move it up out of the way. But it's a good idea to take them both off so you can check, clean and regrease the sliders while you're at it. Remember that you will need to support the caliper while you're working - don't just dangle it on the hose or you will damage the hose. Best to tie it up out of the way.

If you haven't done this sort of thing then some tips that might help:

You need to clean the caliper where the pads touch, to remove the accumulation of brake dust. Use brake cleaning fluid for this.
On the rear brakes you will need to wind the piston back in. You can do this by hand but there's a cheap tool called a 'Ford caliper wind-back tool' that makes it a lot easier.
While you are working on each corner, take the opportunity to flush the brake fluid. Do this after replacing the pads and refitting the caliper.
Whether you flush the fluid or not, make sure you pump the brake pedal a few times until it comes up hard before you move on to the next corner. Otherwise you'll find by the time you've pushed four pistons back the fluid will overflow the reservoir, you'll also find when you drive off you have no brakes.
Brake fluid is very nasty stuff and will ruin paintwork, rot any natural fibres it comes into contact with even months later. Be very careful to keep it off you and out of the house.
You should only use fluid that meets or exceeds the DOT5.1 standard (the ".1" is critical - DOT5 is completely different stuff).

Edit to add: Get a Haynes manual for the Ford Sierra around the same year as your TVR, this will explain how to do simple jobs like this.

Edited by GreenV8S on Sunday 5th October 13:21

lockhart flawse

Original Poster:

2,103 posts

265 months

Sunday 5th October 2008
quotequote all
Thanks everyone. Job done. I went and bought a piston pusher as suggested and it made the job quite easy. Piston went back fine once I got it moving.

Not got time to do the brake fluid as suggested but will keep it in mind.

Thanks again.

L.F.