I want more horses, advise please ?????????
Discussion
I have bought in the last 6 mths a early 1992 4.0 its one of the factory gas flowed 250bhp models,but im looking for more power without going silly, i dont want to go 5.0........as i love the car.......
K&N ?? RE MAPPING???
I also want to up grade on the suspension, i believe fitting later 5.0 struts is better????? are the a straight swop????
Polly bushes all round?????
Goodridge brake hoses??????
Wont be doing track days just want a great street car....looking to spend about 3-4k on it but that will include full leather re-trim and wheels refurbed
Please help as im new to the tvr scene, but not freightened of taking heads off etc
Andy.
K&N ?? RE MAPPING???
I also want to up grade on the suspension, i believe fitting later 5.0 struts is better????? are the a straight swop????
Polly bushes all round?????
Goodridge brake hoses??????
Wont be doing track days just want a great street car....looking to spend about 3-4k on it but that will include full leather re-trim and wheels refurbed
Please help as im new to the tvr scene, but not freightened of taking heads off etc
Andy.
Edited by 3024E on Wednesday 10th December 23:31
well a full leather retrim will eat most of your budget £ 2 -3.5 depending on who does is it....
refurb wheels depending on what they are £50 standard wheel or upto £250 split rim wheel each
Smooth elbow to plenum is possibly cheapest and most benificial ... you can couple this with a K&N filter to save maintance on pipercross filter .. (ie ACT induction kit for the lot)... a few hundred £££
Cam can make a differnce to bhp, but genrally at the cost of somthing else.
you can get a tornado chip (mark adams) + rolling road set-up , Mark will listen to what you want and map accordingly, however this may throw up other issue as he is checks the car over to make sure he is not masking other issues/weak components ( ie cams, flow meters, etc)
I've fitted act induction kit, carbon fiber trumpets, diff fuel injectors, and then a rolling road session to tune everything up.....
had my wheels refurbed, new carpet interior and new roof, ACT cherry bomb exhaust, gaz adj suspension, poly bushes, new high beam lights, new perspex light pod covers...... oh and gearbox chamge to T5....and an interior light bulb .... and will say
Yes some was money well spent, and others well I've done it now (yes there is an improvement but not sufficient IMHO to justify the cost)
Mine has been drivabilty on road, but you can also max the bhp and have a car that hates road driving.
refurb wheels depending on what they are £50 standard wheel or upto £250 split rim wheel each
Smooth elbow to plenum is possibly cheapest and most benificial ... you can couple this with a K&N filter to save maintance on pipercross filter .. (ie ACT induction kit for the lot)... a few hundred £££
Cam can make a differnce to bhp, but genrally at the cost of somthing else.
you can get a tornado chip (mark adams) + rolling road set-up , Mark will listen to what you want and map accordingly, however this may throw up other issue as he is checks the car over to make sure he is not masking other issues/weak components ( ie cams, flow meters, etc)
I've fitted act induction kit, carbon fiber trumpets, diff fuel injectors, and then a rolling road session to tune everything up.....
had my wheels refurbed, new carpet interior and new roof, ACT cherry bomb exhaust, gaz adj suspension, poly bushes, new high beam lights, new perspex light pod covers...... oh and gearbox chamge to T5....and an interior light bulb .... and will say
Yes some was money well spent, and others well I've done it now (yes there is an improvement but not sufficient IMHO to justify the cost)
Mine has been drivabilty on road, but you can also max the bhp and have a car that hates road driving.
When you say struts I don't really know what you mean? The later front brakes and discs should fit on the front OK, but the rear uprights need changing if you need to upgrade the rears to 500 spec. PM Pasco IIRC he has some 500 fronts he might sell you (and some dampers possibly).
Early cars have awful 2 piece front upper wishbones - these should be changed for later 1 piece ASAP IMHO.
Better to spend the winter doing your wishbones & brakes TBH, add new bushes, TRE's, BJ's and steering UJ's followed by a decent geo setup & will change the car more dramatically than anything else
Looking for power is much more complicated and open to interpretation. Smooth bore induction and plenum insulation are quick & easy. You can open out & blend your trumpet base or shorten your trumpets or get flared ones.. beyond that it all starts getting complicated and you need to plan where you are going in th elong run... TBH I'm not sure you're going to get much more than the 250bhp (you already have?) out of a 4.0 anyway...
Early cars have awful 2 piece front upper wishbones - these should be changed for later 1 piece ASAP IMHO.
Better to spend the winter doing your wishbones & brakes TBH, add new bushes, TRE's, BJ's and steering UJ's followed by a decent geo setup & will change the car more dramatically than anything else
Looking for power is much more complicated and open to interpretation. Smooth bore induction and plenum insulation are quick & easy. You can open out & blend your trumpet base or shorten your trumpets or get flared ones.. beyond that it all starts getting complicated and you need to plan where you are going in th elong run... TBH I'm not sure you're going to get much more than the 250bhp (you already have?) out of a 4.0 anyway...
This mod to the induction system by Eann at www.torqueV8.com is impressive and smooth, well worth having a look and it doesn't require a rolling road session as he sets it up during the fitting and can then make adjustments via his laptop on a roadtest if necessary.
He's fitted about 30 IIRC. I'm putting a piece together from Sprint and the testimonials I have are all positive.
I've just had a recent HDD failure and can't access anything at the moment but I know Derek at Absolutely Shocks
has had the system fitted so it might be worth giving him a call.
I've just had a recent HDD failure and can't access anything at the moment but I know Derek at Absolutely Shocks
has had the system fitted so it might be worth giving him a call.
For your wheels, give this company a try http://www.wheelrepair.co.uk/ in Preston (ask for Jerry)
They have just refurbed a set of split rims for me and they have done a fabulous job for £400
They have just refurbed a set of split rims for me and they have done a fabulous job for £400
IMHO the std pre-cat 240mm brakes are marginal. These should improve things & are a good price;
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/816854.htm
& yes braided hoses are a step in the right direction too.
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/816854.htm
& yes braided hoses are a step in the right direction too.
for your 2.5K I'd say
fit a set of reasonable shocks ( GAZ at a minimum ) replace any bushes that need doing and get a full geometry check set-up done by a specialist ( NOT kwik fit) - £800 to 1000
check your existing cam hasn't worn out, (they tend to last about 50K miles) replace if required.
Fit a smooth elbow as suggested and short trumpets with insulation , get a generic chip from Mark Adams .
Use some decent leather cleaner and conditioning creams to bring the interior back to life.
If the engine is in otherwise good condition you'll get a genuine 235ish BHP so about 190-200 at the wheels
You can get a genuine 270ish from the 4 ltr (bear in mind the TVR power figures are in fact lies) but this needs head work, replacement cam, short trumpets, enlarged throttle, increased CR, better injectors and I used an aftermarket ECU as well.
fit a set of reasonable shocks ( GAZ at a minimum ) replace any bushes that need doing and get a full geometry check set-up done by a specialist ( NOT kwik fit) - £800 to 1000
check your existing cam hasn't worn out, (they tend to last about 50K miles) replace if required.
Fit a smooth elbow as suggested and short trumpets with insulation , get a generic chip from Mark Adams .
Use some decent leather cleaner and conditioning creams to bring the interior back to life.
If the engine is in otherwise good condition you'll get a genuine 235ish BHP so about 190-200 at the wheels
You can get a genuine 270ish from the 4 ltr (bear in mind the TVR power figures are in fact lies) but this needs head work, replacement cam, short trumpets, enlarged throttle, increased CR, better injectors and I used an aftermarket ECU as well.
Are you sure you are getting the horses that were once there out of your std motor, these cars, (when they are on the money)!, the last thing you will want is more power! trust me,If the cam or distributor timing becomes retarded they can become very blunt instruments very very quickly. In short measure the horsepower you are putting down if it helps you, old style tuned minis (circa 670kg car for power to weight comparison) can put down on or around 90-100 bhp on to the rollers use this as a benchmark.
I have seen threads on here of 180 on rollers 240 fly ....non credo...only the power that gets to the road counts! an old tuned pinto knocks 140-145 into the rollers all day long with a claimed 155-160 fly. Forget tuning and get what should have been there in the first place.
I have seen threads on here of 180 on rollers 240 fly ....non credo...only the power that gets to the road counts! an old tuned pinto knocks 140-145 into the rollers all day long with a claimed 155-160 fly. Forget tuning and get what should have been there in the first place.
V8 GRF said:
This mod to the induction system by Eann at www.torqueV8.com is impressive and smooth, well worth having a look and it doesn't require a rolling road session as he sets it up during the fitting and can then make adjustments via his laptop on a roadtest if necessary.
Yup, got it, works very good and know of others who are very pleased with it. Similar thread running here chaps, might be a few shareable ideas to...well... share. 
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
If your Griff has not been freshened up in the last 4-5 years the fresh shocks, brakes bits, alignment etc. really will make a massive difference - faster and more fun.
One thing I'd add is tyres, if they are at all old (>2 or 3 years), cracked, hard etc., changing them and inflating to the the right pressure will make more difference than anything else and again comparatively cheap.
Dare I say, save the rest of your budget, you are going to need it at some point.
gooner
One thing I'd add is tyres, if they are at all old (>2 or 3 years), cracked, hard etc., changing them and inflating to the the right pressure will make more difference than anything else and again comparatively cheap.
Dare I say, save the rest of your budget, you are going to need it at some point.
gooner
About the shocks i can say that you can buy golden shocks does not matter!!!! Start with puting some rose joints on your shocks and buy reasonable shocks. Without those rose joints the shocks only wsork with new silent blocks but they wear out very quickly so no use to buy new shocks without rose joints. Forces on shocks are just to high to take for the silent blocks. If they wear down the play is so big that it does not matter anymore which shocks you buy.So rose joints for better handling. Renew all bushes buy poly anti rollbar rubbers because the ford ones only last for maybe a few months or less rubber just too soft. Then make sure to place some heatshields to protect the shocks from warming up by the manifolds. I use intrax.
Chimjunkie said:
wintrading said:
Stuff, then said: Then make sure to place some heatshields to protect the shocks from warming up by the manifolds. I use intrax.
Thats really interesting. Never gave this a thought. Any more info?Lots of nice goodies for Christmas
Edited by Pasco on Friday 12th December 21:31
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