500 Engine out, how long ?

[steve-V8s]

Roughly how long should I take to lift the engine out ? As a comparison it takes me about 3-4 hours to swap the Diff. I Plan to leave the gearbox in place. From underneath I can feel all the bolts around the bell housing so am hoping I can undo them. What is opinion abut the manifolds, can they stay on ?

Seems to me that it is :-

Take photographs
Disconnect all the wires and pipes
Remove exhaust Y piece
Remove swirl pot and cross member
Remove bell housing bolts
Remove starter motor (can't decide if it needs to come off )
Support with hoist
Remove engine mount bolts
Lift out

[Johno]

4hrs should cover it, took me less than that leaving the box in place and leaving the manifolds on, but depends on your ability to lift the engine on whether I'd leave on the manifolds as the more it swings about etc . . What can take time is labelling all the loom, I chose to and it saves a great deal of time later chasing issues, most of it is straight forward and having doen it once i could do without now, but it made re-connecting everything an asolute doddle and saved time.

I'd already removed the inlet manifold and cam, before it was evident the engine needed to come out so slightly reduced weight but not hugely significant.

Loads of photo's of the loom routing and pipework helps a lot later on.

No need to remove starter motor - just it's wiring . .

Be careful of the earthing strap fitted on the n/s back of block, often forgotten (had a ate who forgot to re-connect and couldn't fathom for ages why it wouldn't run.

Flexi section also is bolted to the block, so that'll need to come off.

Only warning I'll give is that with any removal leaving box in, getting the splie back on was a bd of a job of course, although after some wobbling etc it as back on in an hour, which seemed a lot less than the work it would have added to take it out.

Edited by Johno on Friday 2nd January 11:22

[clive f]

personally I`d take the gearbox out with it, its not much more work, but can be a pain to mate them back up when you put the engine back in if the box is left in the car, but say 4-6 hrs tops for 2 people.

I did my clutch a while ago, and with it all in situ, I had to remove the gearbox from the bellhousing, T5 box, to be able to get to the bolts at the top of the bellhousing, but not sure if this is the same on the lt77 style gearboxes.

Edited by clive f on Friday 2nd January 12:23

[steve-V8s]

OK thanks for the tips, will take lots of pics and label things before starting. Seems to me that the engine on it’s own is a far easier shape to keep control of. Taking the plenum off first is I guess a good idea as it gives better access to the top bell hosing bolts. Thought the manifolds could stay on, have seen engines lying about at dealers with them still attached.

[spend]

I reckon Clives point is the most salient Steve. T5 is easy to separate & pull back out of the way, LT77 is a mare pull it out complete. I'd certainly strip the manifolds (in & ex) & fit lifting eyes (if you don't have them left on as ballast ) as well as strip ancillaries. Then again I'd also consider popping the heads to reduce weight but I'm a wimp anyway I guess much depends on your lifting ability and height restrictions (as you have also to work under the car, support box...) so everyone tailors it to suit their own circumstances

BTW, cracking the Torque on the Crank pulley & head bolts is easier in the car IMHO (scaffolding to hold the engine stand is not funny! IME)

[GreenV8S]

Mine came out quite easily with everything intact (gearbox, manifolds, induction, blower etc) just disconnecting the fuel electrics and cooling systems, removing the starter, engine mounts etc to clear the chassis. It took quite a bit of wriggling to get everything past the chassis but most of that would still apply with the 'box off, anyway after the fourth or fifth time I was starting to get the hang of it. It was much easier to assemble the engine + box out of the car and put them in as a unit. Trying to line the engine and 'box up in situ can be a pain and risks damaging the input shaft if you end up trying to force it. Maybe if you already know what you're doing and have perfect access (vehicle hoist, transmission jacks etc) this would be quicker but not how I'd recommend doing it the first time.

[spend]

Tis' a tad different when nearly all the front of the car is not in the way though Pete?

clam shells really are great for access :jealousmiley:

[Ballistic Banana]

Theres a couple of very good Videos From Quinny and Adam on an Engine going in, May be of interest to you.

Press Me

BB

[chrispitman]

Hey I see your in salisbury, had the chimera engine out awhile back if you need any help get in touch.

[Bluebottle]

Ballistic Banana said:

Theres a couple of very good Videos From Quinny and Adam on an Engine going in, May be of interest to you.

Press Me

BB

Is it me, or is that a serpentine belt routed wrongly?

Edited by Bluebottle on Thursday 8th January 11:34

[steve-V8s]

Thanks Chris and thanks BB.

Chris when yours came out did you take the box and engine out as one or leave the box in the car ?

[chrispitman]

Left the box in the car, getting the bell housing to seperate from the engine is the hardest part as there are metal locating dowls mine were a little corroded held the two parts together. On the chim the front brace has to come out also took the bottom V pully off to get plenty of room as the engine has to come forward to slide the shaft out the gearbox.

[Johno]

Bluebottle said:

Ballistic Banana said:

Theres a couple of very good Videos From Quinny and Adam on an Engine going in, May be of interest to you.

Press Me

BB

Is it me, or is that a serpentine belt routed wrongly?

Edited by Bluebottle on Thursday 8th January 11:34

Yes it is routed wrong . . .