Discussion
HI everyone can some one give me some help please i am looking to change the springs on my griff 500 .what i like to know is what poundage am i looking at for every day motoring no track days i need the front and rears i have done a search but no joy so any help from you would be great many thanks in advance paul
I am running +75 Lbs all round on Nitrons. When I fitted them, the ride became a bit harsh on bumpy roads, but the handling was much better.
When I fitted lighter wheels and lowered the unsprung weight, the handling became better still. But the ride became softer again. I would say that it’s better and much more comfortable than it was before the new springs were fitted.
So, my advice would be change both, but do the wheels first. Then work up the spring rate to exploit the advantage.
When I fitted lighter wheels and lowered the unsprung weight, the handling became better still. But the ride became softer again. I would say that it’s better and much more comfortable than it was before the new springs were fitted.
So, my advice would be change both, but do the wheels first. Then work up the spring rate to exploit the advantage.
Hi paul again i think i read some were that it is about 280lbs rears and about 325 front but to be honest i am not sure that,s why i am asking for help i do not want to stiff a spring as the griff is a stiff ride as it is i don,t want it spongey but i do not want it spine brakeing either so any help would be great
clive f said:
been head scratchin and think I`m running 350lbs on the front and 400lbs on the back, whatever they are, I don`t think I`m far off I had them supplied after a chat with Joo.
Are you sure you've got those the right way round? (Either the figures, or the springs?) It doesn't seem right to have the rear suspension stiffer than the front.Few funny numbers comming up here, especially that twit Clive
Paul, if you are running Gaz shocks why are you looking at Nitron springs?
You obviously bought off Corby or Dampertech because I sell as kits, why don't you speak to somebody who understands what rates go with what cars for what usage before you buy.
I give up with you lot sometimes.
Paul, if you are running Gaz shocks why are you looking at Nitron springs?
You obviously bought off Corby or Dampertech because I sell as kits, why don't you speak to somebody who understands what rates go with what cars for what usage before you buy.
I give up with you lot sometimes.
GreenV8S said:
clive f said:
been head scratchin and think I`m running 350lbs on the front and 400lbs on the back, whatever they are, I don`t think I`m far off I had them supplied after a chat with Joo.
Are you sure you've got those the right way round? (Either the figures, or the springs?) It doesn't seem right to have the rear suspension stiffer than the front.
Sorry Derek, forgot to mention your services in the same sentance as Joo`s, but you are spot on, people should ask people like you an Joo, it`ll also save them money in the long run.
Edited by clive f on Sunday 18th January 18:00
clive f said:
GreenV8S said:
clive f said:
been head scratchin and think I`m running 350lbs on the front and 400lbs on the back, whatever they are, I don`t think I`m far off I had them supplied after a chat with Joo.
Are you sure you've got those the right way round? (Either the figures, or the springs?) It doesn't seem right to have the rear suspension stiffer than the front.Sorry Derek, forgot to mention your services in the same sentance as Joo`s, but you are spot on, people should ask people like you an Joo, it`ll also save them money in the long run.
Edited by clive f on Sunday 18th January 18:00
At around 350 hp Joo specked me Nitrons valved to suite 450lb front and 375 lb rear springs 
Something tells me i will end up at around 525lb front 450lb rear springs.
This to take into account extra acceleration caused by even more HP and the braking forces caused by AP racing 4pots and 330mm disks
Something tells me i will end up at around 525lb front 450lb rear springs.
This to take into account extra acceleration caused by even more HP and the braking forces caused by AP racing 4pots and 330mm disks
If you revalve accordingly you can get away with some very high spring rates on the road .. however it's very much a case of getting away with it. Suppleness works better on our bumpy roads and although I have 700lb/in of the front of my S i wont pretend for a second that it's well suited to road use.
I have specced griff/chim road/track day kits with 500f 375r before but i would be reluctant to go much stiffer. You're generally ok over smaller long duration bumps, but anything with a significant wheel movement in a short time will feel very very harsh indeed. You would need something which doesn't ramp up the damping at high piston speeds which is difficult to achieve without some sort of blowoff valve - this is something i've discussed with guy at nitron before but never got as far as implementing it.
I guess the thing to do is try it and see.
On your rear dampers paul we went for a far more digressive compression valving than i've tried before. Speaking to Guy it seemed that most of the valving changes he'd done before had been making the valving more progressive (ie the resistance progressively ramps up with piston speed movement) however on your rear dampers i wanted the compression curve to be as flat as possible with increasing piston speeds and it worked well.
I'd tried it before years ago but other TVR suspension people had not picked up on it and were going their own way with progressively steeper compression curves with incresing piston speed. I was convinced this was the wrong way to go as I have always struggled with harshness on high speed compression movements especially. If you increase your spring rates you tend not to notice the extra harshness if the wheel moves slowly up and down in the arch, the car rides over the bumps but the amplitude changes are small and slow so it feels supple . The issues occur when you want suppleness in high speed piston rod movements. We are already on a very flat compression curve so a way to claw more suppleness now is to bleed oil away with a blowoff valve really.
So be careful how stiff you go is what I'm saying in a long winded way. lol
I have specced griff/chim road/track day kits with 500f 375r before but i would be reluctant to go much stiffer. You're generally ok over smaller long duration bumps, but anything with a significant wheel movement in a short time will feel very very harsh indeed. You would need something which doesn't ramp up the damping at high piston speeds which is difficult to achieve without some sort of blowoff valve - this is something i've discussed with guy at nitron before but never got as far as implementing it.
I guess the thing to do is try it and see.
On your rear dampers paul we went for a far more digressive compression valving than i've tried before. Speaking to Guy it seemed that most of the valving changes he'd done before had been making the valving more progressive (ie the resistance progressively ramps up with piston speed movement) however on your rear dampers i wanted the compression curve to be as flat as possible with increasing piston speeds and it worked well.
I'd tried it before years ago but other TVR suspension people had not picked up on it and were going their own way with progressively steeper compression curves with incresing piston speed. I was convinced this was the wrong way to go as I have always struggled with harshness on high speed compression movements especially. If you increase your spring rates you tend not to notice the extra harshness if the wheel moves slowly up and down in the arch, the car rides over the bumps but the amplitude changes are small and slow so it feels supple . The issues occur when you want suppleness in high speed piston rod movements. We are already on a very flat compression curve so a way to claw more suppleness now is to bleed oil away with a blowoff valve really.
So be careful how stiff you go is what I'm saying in a long winded way. lol
Edited by trackcar on Sunday 18th January 21:18
HI spend no its just that i am thinking of putting new springs on the car the shocks are new gaz ,but when they came the springs that came with them are 2" lower than the standard ones so i was thinking of putting nitrons on them , they are 250 lb rear 268mm uncompressed in length i want to go back to the standard ride hight, just was thinking of getting nitrons as to the others ,cheers paul PS the new springs arethe 250lb and 268mm not the one,s that came with the shocks
Edited by paul2000 on Monday 19th January 12:49
Edited by paul2000 on Monday 19th January 12:52
Talk to the Gasman 
if you want some springs for his dampers, simple really. Just doesn't sound to me like you want anything outlandish, if you don't feel convinced by or are confused by his input then ask here. But TBH you can get so many different slants on things it might even confuse you more (what works for one may not be relevant to another, at the end of the day you have to trust your provider).
if you want some springs for his dampers, simple really. Just doesn't sound to me like you want anything outlandish, if you don't feel convinced by or are confused by his input then ask here. But TBH you can get so many different slants on things it might even confuse you more (what works for one may not be relevant to another, at the end of the day you have to trust your provider).Im confused ..
are you saying your car is too low by 2 inches? in which case just wind it up on the spring seat ..
or are you saying your springs are 2 inches shorter and that is putting the spring seat so far up it's threaded section on the damper body that you cannot attain the correct ride height because you can't wind the spring seat any higher?
are you saying your car is too low by 2 inches? in which case just wind it up on the spring seat ..
or are you saying your springs are 2 inches shorter and that is putting the spring seat so far up it's threaded section on the damper body that you cannot attain the correct ride height because you can't wind the spring seat any higher?
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