Crankshaft rear oil seal.
Crankshaft rear oil seal.
Author
Discussion

DarkMatter

Original Poster:

1,503 posts

261 months

Saturday 14th February 2009
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Now that I have the gearbox, bellhousing and clutch off I'm wondering whether I should consider changing the crankshaft rear oil seal.

The clutch shows NO signs of oil contamination. There is some oil residue within the bellhousing, but it's not exactly running in it, and it could easily have come from a leaking sump gasket.

How easy/difficult is it to remove and replace the flywheel and crankshaft rear oil seal with the engine still in the car?

Thanks.


Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

290 months

Saturday 14th February 2009
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This is definately the time to do it and also look at the coolant core plugs while you're at it. The oil seal can be levered out, doesn't matter if you damage it. When you push the new seal in place make sure the inner lip doesn't fold over or get trapped. Run a .005" feeler around the lip to make sure it sits properly but be careful not to nick it. If you look closely at the old seal you'll see how it's sitting.

That Daddy

19,450 posts

251 months

Sunday 15th February 2009
quotequote all
While the box is out i would also change the gearbox input shaft oil seal,mine weeps and i have noted this on another Chim too with the T5 gearbox also gives you an oily film in the bellhousing,just a heads up really wink

DarkMatter

Original Poster:

1,503 posts

261 months

Sunday 15th February 2009
quotequote all
Thanks for the tips 'Boosted LS1' and 'That Daddy'.

Boosted LS1

21,200 posts

290 months

Sunday 15th February 2009
quotequote all
Why thank you chap. Look carefully at the clutch fork and release bearing as wellsmile

DarkMatter

Original Poster:

1,503 posts

261 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
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I've replaced the crankshaft rear oil seal, no problems.

Should I replace the flywheel bolts or re-use the old ones, and should I use a touch of thread lock on them? Is 60 ft/lb the right torque setting (and 35 ft/lb for the clutch pressure plate)?

Any tips on replacing the crankshaft end spigot bush, should the new one push in easily?

Boosted LS1 said:
Look carefully at the clutch fork and release bearing as wellsmile
I'll be replacing the clutch fork and the release bearing too.

Thanks.

chrispitman

742 posts

284 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
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The spigot bush should be a good fit, the old one fell out but the replacement had to be tapped in.

I re used the fly wheel bolts, I would put a dab of thread lock to be on the safe side.

DarkMatter

Original Poster:

1,503 posts

261 months

Tuesday 24th February 2009
quotequote all
chrispitman said:
The spigot bush should be a good fit, the old one fell out but the replacement had to be tapped in.

I re used the fly wheel bolts, I would put a dab of thread lock to be on the safe side.
Thanks Chris.

I've started a new thread about the spigot bush here http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0... so please continue any further 'spigot bush' discussion there. Thanks.