Discussion
Sweep.
I wish..... been on fews run and my car is kicking out black sooty stuff as well as a lovely smell of exhaust fumes...... it's not oily just a sooty black powder.
Any ideas what needs adjusting ??????
Editted to say.... car's a pre-cat so no cat convertors, and running ACT Cherry Bomb saust, fuel is mainly BP Ultima
I wish..... been on fews run and my car is kicking out black sooty stuff as well as a lovely smell of exhaust fumes...... it's not oily just a sooty black powder.
Any ideas what needs adjusting ??????
Editted to say.... car's a pre-cat so no cat convertors, and running ACT Cherry Bomb saust, fuel is mainly BP Ultima
Edited by Hoover. on Monday 20th April 20:40
Check the AFM amd connections/wiring
guess its a mixture of the two...... I've always suspected overfueling (flames etc) despite 2 rollimg road set-ups..... but never had soot like I've got now... so AFM schecks needed..
any ideas what I'm looking for... seem to recal someething about a reading across the terminals.... I might give Gazman (Derek) a bell .. I know he knows about upgrades ... but I just want the normal settings
any ideas what I'm looking for... seem to recal someething about a reading across the terminals.... I might give Gazman (Derek) a bell .. I know he knows about upgrades ... but I just want the normal settings
Mine was AFM but even with Eann's induction kit I was getting a sooty exaust, mind you we had the prototype kit on mine and hadn't set it up properly.
Once we got it on Crazy Horses dyno at Boreham Wood, we realised that it was overfueling and Eann changed the chip. Good as gold now, no soot and nips along quite well for a fairly standard 4L.
Once we got it on Crazy Horses dyno at Boreham Wood, we realised that it was overfueling and Eann changed the chip. Good as gold now, no soot and nips along quite well for a fairly standard 4L.
Hoover. said:
guess its a mixture of the two...... I've always suspected overfueling (flames etc) despite 2 rollimg road set-ups..... but never had soot like I've got now... so AFM schecks needed..
any ideas what I'm looking for... seem to recal someething about a reading across the terminals.... I might give Gazman (Derek) a bell .. I know he knows about upgrades ... but I just want the normal settings
I had this, the AFM multiplug had been left unplugged by the people that replaced my exhaust manifolds. Plugged it back in and all was fine. First step check the multiplug.any ideas what I'm looking for... seem to recal someething about a reading across the terminals.... I might give Gazman (Derek) a bell .. I know he knows about upgrades ... but I just want the normal settings
blueg33 said:
Hoover. said:
guess its a mixture of the two...... I've always suspected overfueling (flames etc) despite 2 rollimg road set-ups..... but never had soot like I've got now... so AFM schecks needed..
any ideas what I'm looking for... seem to recal someething about a reading across the terminals.... I might give Gazman (Derek) a bell .. I know he knows about upgrades ... but I just want the normal settings
I had this, the AFM multiplug had been left unplugged by the people that replaced my exhaust manifolds. Plugged it back in and all was fine. First step check the multiplug.any ideas what I'm looking for... seem to recal someething about a reading across the terminals.... I might give Gazman (Derek) a bell .. I know he knows about upgrades ... but I just want the normal settings
Ok thaiught about this... who is best suited to this....
I normaly use Austec....... but I reckon this will result in rr there + VAT .. circa 1k
what about the chap Aylseford.... or crazy Horsae..... does this requier rr facilities or can it be sorted with good experinced know how ???????
I normaly use Austec....... but I reckon this will result in rr there + VAT .. circa 1k
what about the chap Aylseford.... or crazy Horsae..... does this requier rr facilities or can it be sorted with good experinced know how ???????
LordGrover said:
Are you certain there's something wrong? Mine's smoky as fook and chucks out black poop at start-up - runs like a dream though (famous last words 
). Dulford and Neil Garner maintain it and they both say there's nowt to worry about.
It goes like stink....... it's always spitted out black on start-up... but now its leaving every car behind me covered in black sooty powder and thet also require a gas mask because of the exhaust fumes ). Dulford and Neil Garner maintain it and they both say there's nowt to worry about.LordGrover said:
Are you certain there's something wrong? Mine's smoky as fook and chucks out black poop at start-up - runs like a dream though (famous last words ). Dulford and Neil Garner maintain it and they both say there's nowt to worry about.
It goes like stink....... it's always spitted out black on start-up... but now its leaving every car behind me covered in black sooty powder and thet also require a gas mask because of the exhaust fumes ). Dulford and Neil Garner maintain it and they both say there's nowt to worry about.The ECU should never allow the engine to run rich if you have a catalyst fitted, as it will try and keep the mixture in line, whatever the fuel pressure or external sensors are telling it (within reason ). It will become a pig to drive how ever as the ecu tries to compensate, and is likely to start snatching badly. AFM wise, Mark Adams did this bit that is spot on:
Most airflow meter faults will cause the engine to run excessively rich. However if the airflow meter remains connected whilst defective then the vehicle will probably not run. In most cases the output from a defective airflow meter will be in the range 2.0-2.5 Volts, which is a viable value. This represents a moderate load and will cause heavy over-fuelling without setting a fault code.
Testing is performed in the following manner. Peel back the rubber boot on the airflow meter connector and leave it plugged in to the airflow meter. Set up the digital multimeter to read voltage. Insert the negative probe into the Red/Black wire (sensor ground), and the positive into the Blue/Green wire (Airflow signal).
Turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine. The meter should immediately indicate a reading of approximately 0.3-0.34 Volts. Most defective airflow meters will overshoot to 0.8 Volts or higher, and take at least 2 seconds to come down to the correct voltage.
Now start the engine, and the reading should rise to 1.6 Volts (3.5 Litre engine) to 1.75 Volts (5.0 Litre engine).
The next test is full load, and as with the fuel pressure test it will require use of a rolling road or a steep hill in the same manner. Under full load the voltage should rise to 4.45 Volts (3.5 Litre engine) to 4.95 Volts (5.0 Litre engine).
On this injection system, the idle CO mixture adjuster is provided on the airflow meter. It is located in a boss on the top of the airflow meter, pointing towards the engine. Leaving the multimeter negative probe in the Red/Black wire, move the positive probe to the Blue/Red wire.
Now turn on the ignition but do not start the engine. Observe the voltage. The normal adjustment range is between 0.0 and 3.6 Volts, with the higher Voltages producing higher idle CO values. There are approximately 20 turns of the adjuster screw to cover the entire range.
Annoyingly, the adjustment may be clockwise or anticlockwise to increase the value, and this varies from meter to meter! For this reason it is always preferable to have the multimeter connected in this manner when adjusting idle CO, so that you see can something is actually happening.
Typical Voltages that would be found at this point are between 0.9 to 1.4 Volts for non-catalyst cars. This Voltage is always factory pre-set to 1.8 Volts for catalyst vehicles. A value near to 3.5 Volts will generally produce an idle CO value of 9-10%. These Voltages may be used as safe initial values particularly if no CO measuring equipment is available.
My bit again:
If you are running a non cat map, the CO trim pot makes a huge difference to the mixture below about 2500 rpm, enough to soot the pugs if its wrong. Personally I have never managed to get the mixture to change in any way with the CO trim value on the catalys fuel map, and I dont think personnaly it actually makes any difference and even if it does alter the mixture, the ECU just pulls it back in line again.
You can do a very basic test on the AFM hot wire, by monitoring the AFM output, and blowing into the small port as you look into the AFM. The voltage will jump buy a couple of volts as you blow.
Most airflow meter faults will cause the engine to run excessively rich. However if the airflow meter remains connected whilst defective then the vehicle will probably not run. In most cases the output from a defective airflow meter will be in the range 2.0-2.5 Volts, which is a viable value. This represents a moderate load and will cause heavy over-fuelling without setting a fault code.
Testing is performed in the following manner. Peel back the rubber boot on the airflow meter connector and leave it plugged in to the airflow meter. Set up the digital multimeter to read voltage. Insert the negative probe into the Red/Black wire (sensor ground), and the positive into the Blue/Green wire (Airflow signal).
Turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine. The meter should immediately indicate a reading of approximately 0.3-0.34 Volts. Most defective airflow meters will overshoot to 0.8 Volts or higher, and take at least 2 seconds to come down to the correct voltage.
Now start the engine, and the reading should rise to 1.6 Volts (3.5 Litre engine) to 1.75 Volts (5.0 Litre engine).
The next test is full load, and as with the fuel pressure test it will require use of a rolling road or a steep hill in the same manner. Under full load the voltage should rise to 4.45 Volts (3.5 Litre engine) to 4.95 Volts (5.0 Litre engine).
On this injection system, the idle CO mixture adjuster is provided on the airflow meter. It is located in a boss on the top of the airflow meter, pointing towards the engine. Leaving the multimeter negative probe in the Red/Black wire, move the positive probe to the Blue/Red wire.
Now turn on the ignition but do not start the engine. Observe the voltage. The normal adjustment range is between 0.0 and 3.6 Volts, with the higher Voltages producing higher idle CO values. There are approximately 20 turns of the adjuster screw to cover the entire range.
Annoyingly, the adjustment may be clockwise or anticlockwise to increase the value, and this varies from meter to meter! For this reason it is always preferable to have the multimeter connected in this manner when adjusting idle CO, so that you see can something is actually happening.
Typical Voltages that would be found at this point are between 0.9 to 1.4 Volts for non-catalyst cars. This Voltage is always factory pre-set to 1.8 Volts for catalyst vehicles. A value near to 3.5 Volts will generally produce an idle CO value of 9-10%. These Voltages may be used as safe initial values particularly if no CO measuring equipment is available.
My bit again:
If you are running a non cat map, the CO trim pot makes a huge difference to the mixture below about 2500 rpm, enough to soot the pugs if its wrong. Personally I have never managed to get the mixture to change in any way with the CO trim value on the catalys fuel map, and I dont think personnaly it actually makes any difference and even if it does alter the mixture, the ECU just pulls it back in line again.
You can do a very basic test on the AFM hot wire, by monitoring the AFM output, and blowing into the small port as you look into the AFM. The voltage will jump buy a couple of volts as you blow.
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