Can you just pull the engine or does the box need to come?

[TVR Beaver]

Can you get the engine out of a Griff (500 Serp if it makes any difference) without removing the gearbox as well?... Not sure if you can get on the top bell housing bolts?? Only reason I ask is that if you need to take both out, I’ll have to do it outside to get the height... If you can just pull the engine I’m sure it will come out in the garage?

If anyone has had any experience here it would be good to get your thoughts
(Did post this on the club site and got 1 answer saying yes it can be done... but thought I may get comments on re-installing and getting it back onto the box etc?... Is this easy??)

[Ant.]

LT77 box?

Yes it can be done, the top bell housing bolts can be reached from the top if you dont mind stripping the inlet manifold off(which isn't much).

Put my new engine in earlier in the year with out taking the box out.

[TVR Beaver]

No.. it's a Serp with T5 box......
Does the input shaft go in easy... once had a days fight with a Land Rover V6 (Steve Parker conversion) to get the dame'd thing back in... Obviously depends on the clutch plate being in line etc...

Edited by TVR Beaver on Thursday 11th June 09:08

Edited by TVR Beaver on Thursday 11th June 09:09

[Ant.]

Doh! Of course,serp T5! Still should be the same, pretty sure I left my exhaust in place too.

[TVR Beaver]

Well.. I'll clear all the front stuff out... take off the extension pulley and exhaust / cross member etc.. and I can actualy get the manifolds off without too much effort as I put 3/8" bolts in when I did the pre-cat's... so should just pull forward and jack up??? I think anyway.... and same in reverse to get back in (but I'm sure it won't be that simple)..
Any more comments out there?.. Cheers...

[350Matt]

Biggest issue is getting a crane with a long enough extension boom to reach over the front, the machine mart extending / folding one is what I've used in the past, otherwise yes you can leave the box in place

[Ant.]

I block and tackled mine in and out, rolling the car back and forth.

[TVR Beaver]

No problem.. I have a small A frame and as it happens, a Mache Mart extending boom engine hoist here at work.. so either will do the job... Great info.. thanks chaps...
Want to get in there now but must wait until the weather get's cold again (that will be August then!!)

[steve-V8s]

Take lot’s of pictures as you take things off. What seems obvious when you remove it can be a puzzle when it goes back. You can get at the top bell housing bolts from underneath but it is easier from the top after taking the plenum off particularly if they are corroded. I would say regardless of what bolts you have leave the manifolds on until clear of the car, they give you something to grab hold of. The engine and bell housing have a couple of dowels so even with the bolts out they stay together and may need a bit of encouragement to split. Take note of which side engine mount has the spacer. There is a bit more room with the oil filter off, I also took the pressure sender off as it looked a bit vulnerable.

Mine came out in about 5 hours and took around 7 to put back by the time everything was hooked up and the fluids were in. Provided you get the alignment right it slots back in fairly well, jacking the box up helps but not too far or you will damage the linkage.

[TVR Beaver]

Great info.. will take pic's.. know what you mean!.. when I lifted the body last winter to do the chassis I removed the seat belts and put them in a box.. When I came to re-fit they took ages to work out what was right and what was wrong (one had the clasp turned over so this confused the issue) Eventualy got V8Griff to look at his!!... But what you'd think is an obvioust re-fit even on the most simple of things... can take ages if you can't work it out...
But may be because you think it's straight forward you don't give it the attention it deserves when taking it apart...
Have done a few manual and auto gear boxes when younger (as well as engines). and awlays got them back right... Over 500 bit's in a Borg Warner 35 auto box!!
.
Thanks for all your comment anyway.. at least I know it can be done... All engines out's I've ever seen on Tiv's have had the box out with it... Cheers!!

Edited by TVR Beaver on Thursday 11th June 16:24

Edited by TVR Beaver on Thursday 11th June 16:26

[v8 racing]

Steve v8s has covered some good points for you, definetly leave the manifolds on, also the starter, dont lift the crane/engine too high when trying to seperate the engine from the box or you will crimp the fuel line, and make sure you have a jack under the box, a sudden drop of the box when the shaft is released will bend the gear linkage, thge engine mount rubbers need to be removed before engine comes out, and definetly take the time to take all the inlet manifold off, it has to come off at some time and it gives you a lot easier access to the 2 top bellhousing bolts, also get a long magnet, as the nearside bellhousing bolts are a swine to get to, you can undo them with a long extension but i can get my hand up there to pull them out so i just use a magnet, same when refitting, drop the oil filter off, and dont forget the earth strap on the back of the nearside head.

[TVR Beaver]

Will print all these comments of and save them for the day... and out it comes... Thanks again....

[2Munkys]

Course you can Malcolm:

[2Munkys]

Some wise words above but don't forget the obvious like isolating the battery and protecting the wings: you'll be rocking that motor to engage the crank/input shaft splines which means scuffing your six pack/pot over the paintwork. And label everything. The only faff I remember was getting the bell housing perfectly square to the block and drawing the locating dowels into the bores of the bellhousing.