Discussion
I love my Griff but the excessive cockpit heat on a warm day is really detracting from the overall brilliant experience. So much so that I am now doubting whether I should take it on my hols to the south of France.
I'm sure it's been discussed before, so apologies for raising again but what is the easiest ways of reducing the heat inside the car. I can't seem to stop warm air blowing into the cockpit.
Should i get the exhaust wrapped? Is there a way in which the heater can be isolated, or cooler external air piped into the interior?
Suggestions gratefully recieved. It's a 4.5 BV with ACT manifolds....
I'm sure it's been discussed before, so apologies for raising again but what is the easiest ways of reducing the heat inside the car. I can't seem to stop warm air blowing into the cockpit.
Should i get the exhaust wrapped? Is there a way in which the heater can be isolated, or cooler external air piped into the interior?
Suggestions gratefully recieved. It's a 4.5 BV with ACT manifolds....
Check that the hot water valve is closing fully.
Check that the clutch master cylinder cover is in place correctly and sealed correctly.
Also on a precat ,check that the air pipe behind the engine that feeds the drivers footwell is not damaged and that is is also sealed properly.
I drove a precat once that didn't have the master cylinder cover on at all, it made the drivers area f
king hot!
Check that the clutch master cylinder cover is in place correctly and sealed correctly.
Also on a precat ,check that the air pipe behind the engine that feeds the drivers footwell is not damaged and that is is also sealed properly.
I drove a precat once that didn't have the master cylinder cover on at all, it made the drivers area f
king hot!Wrap the manifolds with the fibreglass bandage, providing the manifolds are stainless they'll be fine and it'll reduce radiated heat into the engine bay / cockpit.
Yes the ceramic coating is better/ prettier but its a lot more expensive( £250 vs £50) plus you have to take the pipes off the car
Yes the ceramic coating is better/ prettier but its a lot more expensive( £250 vs £50) plus you have to take the pipes off the car
I was getting cooked something crazy recently until i posted on here and someone asked if i've took the cover off to the clutch master cylinder. I had and left it off until i sorted the problem and back in place it is as cool as a cucumber again!
just in case you've done half a job like me!
just in case you've done half a job like me!
square-eyes said:
I was getting cooked something crazy recently until i posted on here and someone asked if i've took the cover off to the clutch master cylinder. I had and left it off until i sorted the problem and back in place it is as cool as a cucumber again!
just in case you've done half a job like me!
just in case you've done half a job like me!

And since I'm still here, performing live for tonight only, here are my thoughts.
1) listen to Ant. He knows stuff.
2) shut the vent by your left leg. Its a quick flick to shut it or open it for hot/not so hot
3) check (if you can) where your fan is sucking air from. It might be the engine bay!
I would also add the following to the check list:
- Check that the heat shielding on the engine bay side walls and inner bonnet is secure and up to the job.
- Check the ventilation fan motor runs for each speed selection, the wirewound dropping resistors are prone to burning out or going open-circuit. (Fan motor is from a Vauxhall Nova).
- Check that the inlet opening for the fan motor is clear, located in the nearside front inner wing lower edge and viewed/accessed from the lower radiator air intake. Stones can sometimes jam the fan rotor.
- Think about uprating the highly acclaimed TVR inner-wing air ducting feature with flexible ducting pipe (a detailed procedure for this appears on the Griffith Pages site).
Good luck.
- Check that the heat shielding on the engine bay side walls and inner bonnet is secure and up to the job.
- Check the ventilation fan motor runs for each speed selection, the wirewound dropping resistors are prone to burning out or going open-circuit. (Fan motor is from a Vauxhall Nova).
- Check that the inlet opening for the fan motor is clear, located in the nearside front inner wing lower edge and viewed/accessed from the lower radiator air intake. Stones can sometimes jam the fan rotor.
- Think about uprating the highly acclaimed TVR inner-wing air ducting feature with flexible ducting pipe (a detailed procedure for this appears on the Griffith Pages site).
Good luck.
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