Discussion
After only 9 weeks of ear to ear grinning griff ownership, now for some grief. After a blast out last sunday, returned home to park up in the garage when it turned into a steam engine. Obviously a rather spectacular blown head gasket.(just great with my first growl visit imminent)
Over the last 5 metres parking up it deposited a lot of coolant out through the exhaust. Luckily it happened when it did as there were no overheating issues. On further inspection only cylinder no.3 has been "steam cleaned" as the following photo shows.
With no obvious signs of failiure from either top or bottom of the gasket i'm a little puzzled as to how the coolant got into cylinder no.3 without affecting especially cylinder no.1, as all the rest were bone dry.
I'm no expert but is this normal or am i missing something? Does anyone recommend i should change the gasket on the other head at the same time while its stripped or leave it alone?
I welcome any comments or advice. cheers, si.
Over the last 5 metres parking up it deposited a lot of coolant out through the exhaust. Luckily it happened when it did as there were no overheating issues. On further inspection only cylinder no.3 has been "steam cleaned" as the following photo shows.
With no obvious signs of failiure from either top or bottom of the gasket i'm a little puzzled as to how the coolant got into cylinder no.3 without affecting especially cylinder no.1, as all the rest were bone dry.
I'm no expert but is this normal or am i missing something? Does anyone recommend i should change the gasket on the other head at the same time while its stripped or leave it alone?
I welcome any comments or advice. cheers, si.
Just had same problem there is no water round that part of the gasket. Mine hade a hole in the port wall behind the inlet valve it had previously been over machined ar the factory and repaired by them, so when i tried to get it repaired it was not possible due to weld on weld onto ally all expanding at diffrent rates so as one hole was fixed another turned up under pressure testing. V8 developments found me a head and now all is well. Power want about £550 for a head I even priced up gettind a standard one machined out and new valve seats fitted but this was even dearer than a used head. The problem would only show when the car had been used and was cooling down with pressure in the water system it then had a missfire when started, I could never find the missfire as the water evaperated or was burnt off. I pulled the plugs and notced one was wet. The split was very very small till i poked it with a screw driver then the wall collapsed into a 6mm wide hole that would have been terminal at 6K .
Edited by jasoncook on Sunday 19th July 19:31
Boosted LS1 said:
Looks like you've got some detonation damage on the quench pad to?
FMI (For My Information) 
quench pad
liner does not appear to have slipped, the piston is near the top of the bore at the minute so i will lower it when i get in tonight to see if i can see anything. Also will get the head pressure tested.
Who should i use for spares i.e. gaskets,new head bolts,etc?
thanks everyone for the info and advice.
Who should i use for spares i.e. gaskets,new head bolts,etc?
thanks everyone for the info and advice.
livinblokey said:
liner does not appear to have slipped, the piston is near the top of the bore at the minute so i will lower it when i get in tonight to see if i can see anything. Also will get the head pressure tested.
Who should i use for spares i.e. gaskets,new head bolts,etc?
thanks everyone for the info and advice.
Its not the liner that slips that makes them go pourous, from a visual check the block will look ok but the air from the cylinder creeps down the side of the liner, it will need pressure testingWho should i use for spares i.e. gaskets,new head bolts,etc?
thanks everyone for the info and advice.
Are you talking pourous liners or slipped liners? Pourous or even cracked can happen with the liner in it's correct position.. But also liners can slip... down the bore in the casting.........
But if it's pourous or even cracked, you may not see it unless it's at temp and pressure for sure..
But if it's pourous or even cracked, you may not see it unless it's at temp and pressure for sure..
Looking at the gap between the valves a standard 500 head has larger valves the 500 heads would be equiv to the V8D ultra big valve stage 4 heads. They are the biggest valves you can get in a rover head and the tvr heads are over ported to boot. If the head has not been welded previous it should be straight forward to get it repaired. I would have got mine repaired if it was only one port, but it had been welded on all four, once we got one sealed it started leaking on another due to heat transfer. V8 dev should be your first call helped me out no end then any one who has a head, power had one when i rang at £550 most will want to sell you a pair. Be carful on valve sizes most big valve heads are standard valve seats machined out to max. Tvr 500 heads have larger seats that have to be machined and shrunk into the heads.
Edited by jasoncook on Wednesday 22 July 00:04
Edited by jasoncook on Wednesday 22 July 00:05
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