Door window outer seal
Discussion
LordGrover said:
Mr Mojo is an LE - I'm surprised he'd need anything just yet.
If only that were true of all SE's, although I reckon mine probably has the highest mileage or at least one of the highest mileage examples around . .. Having just taken off my passenger door and completely re-built including the outer window seal.Drivers door window seal has been hanging off for 2 yrs. It's getting done this week, athough the door doesn't need re-hanging, the window mechanism, runner etc all need re-aligning and sorting out.
I get my seals and 2 part waterproof gue from Seals Direct as I object to paying the 'specialists' the prices they want for run of the mill seals. However, Racetach have an offer on for the outer window seal and roof seal so I've sourced from them, but they don't half know how to recoup their offer in terms of carriage charges, but i needed them so there you go.
Only note I would add is that the P section window outer seal supplied by Racetech is different to that originally fitted to my car but actuay it worked out OK.
HRG. said:
And while we're talking door stuff, what stops the window rattling when you close it? My drivers side one sounds horrible if I shut the door with it up. The passenger side is lovely and taught.
A combination of the weather strip, the rear runner holding the window firmly to the front runner and the end cap on some cars, although mine it is the alignment and weather strip.In my experience they vary from car to car a bit . .
Johno said:
LordGrover said:
Mr Mojo is an LE - I'm surprised he'd need anything just yet.
If only that were true of all SE's, although I reckon mine probably has the highest mileage or at least one of the highest mileage examples around . .. Having just taken off my passenger door and completely re-built including the outer window seal.Drivers door window seal has been hanging off for 2 yrs. It's getting done this week, athough the door doesn't need re-hanging, the window mechanism, runner etc all need re-aligning and sorting out.
I get my seals and 2 part waterproof gue from Seals Direct as I object to paying the 'specialists' the prices they want for run of the mill seals. However, Racetach have an offer on for the outer window seal and roof seal so I've sourced from them, but they don't half know how to recoup their offer in terms of carriage charges, but i needed them so there you go.
Only note I would add is that the P section window outer seal supplied by Racetech is different to that originally fitted to my car but actuay it worked out OK.
Johno said:
HRG. said:
And while we're talking door stuff, what stops the window rattling when you close it? My drivers side one sounds horrible if I shut the door with it up. The passenger side is lovely and taught.
A combination of the weather strip, the rear runner holding the window firmly to the front runner and the end cap on some cars, although mine it is the alignment and weather strip.In my experience they vary from car to car a bit . .
Got the weather seal from Racetech in the end as they had them on offer as Seals Direct didn't have the same as that which came from my car, however, now having the seals from Racetech I think it is . . .
P42.
P41 is too narrow and P43 is too thick I think.
It could also be SRS1914 Black Triumph Herald & Spitfire door seal Per Metre £3.98 or . The one I got from Racetech is a sponge rubber rather than rubber extrusion and therefore is less restrictive for the mechnism to push against when it's colder and also is more compliant. Additionally it is more like what came off the car in terms of material. I would therefore suggets that this below is the right seal. You'd need to email them to check the sizes though. . . . or get it from Racetech, but be prepared to have your pants puled down for the carriage costs.
SRS1914 Black Triumph Herald & Spitfire door seal Per Metre £3.98 or
A few other pointers I'd give ya . .
- Make sure all the old sealant is cleaned off completely before trying to stick on new.
- Get the 2 part glue from Seals Direct - it's used for gluing wetsuits together and repairinghulls etc and is waterproof.
- You need to remove the window to fit the seal properly, but make sure the alignment of the seal works with the window by allowing it to stick initially, whip the window back in and make sure the seal works the full length of the window clearing the beads of water along it.
- Stick the seal to the top of the groove and at the back where it reaches and then fill in underneath with a good quality high modulus silicone sealant. This will help to support the thinner seal supplied by Racetech.
- Glue it into position over length. without gluing the door lock end and then you can trim as you want and glue seperately to get best fit.
- At the front you need to take the front runner into account and how it sits together and where you may add some additional sealant to make it clean, water tight and tidy.
P42.
P41 is too narrow and P43 is too thick I think.
It could also be SRS1914 Black Triumph Herald & Spitfire door seal Per Metre £3.98 or . The one I got from Racetech is a sponge rubber rather than rubber extrusion and therefore is less restrictive for the mechnism to push against when it's colder and also is more compliant. Additionally it is more like what came off the car in terms of material. I would therefore suggets that this below is the right seal. You'd need to email them to check the sizes though. . . . or get it from Racetech, but be prepared to have your pants puled down for the carriage costs.
SRS1914 Black Triumph Herald & Spitfire door seal Per Metre £3.98 or
A few other pointers I'd give ya . .
- Make sure all the old sealant is cleaned off completely before trying to stick on new.
- Get the 2 part glue from Seals Direct - it's used for gluing wetsuits together and repairinghulls etc and is waterproof.
- You need to remove the window to fit the seal properly, but make sure the alignment of the seal works with the window by allowing it to stick initially, whip the window back in and make sure the seal works the full length of the window clearing the beads of water along it.
- Stick the seal to the top of the groove and at the back where it reaches and then fill in underneath with a good quality high modulus silicone sealant. This will help to support the thinner seal supplied by Racetech.
- Glue it into position over length. without gluing the door lock end and then you can trim as you want and glue seperately to get best fit.
- At the front you need to take the front runner into account and how it sits together and where you may add some additional sealant to make it clean, water tight and tidy.
HRG/Johno said:
... some stuff ..
HRG said:
Mine varies a bit from side to side
This is also true of mine, the end caps are the bits I can't get right on mine and need some more again. Going to rivet them in this time to try and get them to fit properly and stay in place.My drivers window rattles, but that because it's out of the rear runner and the weather seal's been half lying into the door for a long while . . time to sort this week.
Edited by Johno on Monday 10th August 13:51
Johno said:
Therefore I'd suggest you should be asking a different question . . . Do I want to replace this with the same or do I use a P seal or similar ?
That way it would work properly . . .
Not really a question is there Johno. just thought I would show what my original one is like...That way it would work properly . . .
Going to take a look at the spare doors at Sportmotive and get a good sample.
Edited by Ant. on Monday 10th August 16:06
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