Nitrons inverted or not?
Discussion
good afternoon to you all,
just received my nitrons with eibach springs (f400-r350) very happy
with the set but...
according to nitrons website they are designed to run inverted ok, but what
is the best way to fit them, normal or inverted for fast road driving?
reason for asking; stickers and springnumbers etc. readable when fitted normal not inverted!?
sorry for asking
brgds
mischa
just received my nitrons with eibach springs (f400-r350) very happy
with the set but...
according to nitrons website they are designed to run inverted ok, but what
is the best way to fit them, normal or inverted for fast road driving?
reason for asking; stickers and springnumbers etc. readable when fitted normal not inverted!?
sorry for asking
brgds
mischa
If you mount them inverted the unsprung weight is reduced slightly which improves the car's handling slightly. On practical terms the difference is negligible though.
I'm on my second set of Nitrons, and both times I was told they could be mounted inverted but only if they were bled perfectly, so Nitron would take extra time bleeding them if they knew they were going to be used inverted. I think this implies that as the dampers get old and start getting air in them, inverted dampers will show problems sooner.
On that basis I'd say mount them with the rod at the top, unless you have a compelling reason to invert them. For example if you can only get at the adjuster one way up that could be a compelling reason.
I'm on my second set of Nitrons, and both times I was told they could be mounted inverted but only if they were bled perfectly, so Nitron would take extra time bleeding them if they knew they were going to be used inverted. I think this implies that as the dampers get old and start getting air in them, inverted dampers will show problems sooner.
On that basis I'd say mount them with the rod at the top, unless you have a compelling reason to invert them. For example if you can only get at the adjuster one way up that could be a compelling reason.
Standard Nitron springs - Try 10 front (from fully hard) 12 rear and see how you get on. You may prefer 12F 14R. Dont be tempted to harden them too much to control body roll. This will result in the ride not conforming well to the road and the car being skittish. Fast road and occasional track use 475lb front 400lb rear springs are a good compromise.
thanks wadsapple & rfc1 for yr replies!
just checked clearance at back but i can reach the adjuster when fitted
the 'normal' way up without jacking and wheel off. (on the ground and arm behind wheel).
i'm in the middle of revising the front suspension (bushes, balljoints, rubbers, wishbones, new bolts, por15 etc.) nice job very rewarding to see everything new!
when i'm done with the front i'll start at the rear; grinding, por15, bushes, bolts etc.
just checked clearance at back but i can reach the adjuster when fitted
the 'normal' way up without jacking and wheel off. (on the ground and arm behind wheel).
i'm in the middle of revising the front suspension (bushes, balljoints, rubbers, wishbones, new bolts, por15 etc.) nice job very rewarding to see everything new!
when i'm done with the front i'll start at the rear; grinding, por15, bushes, bolts etc.
Cycling them to fully soft, fully hard then your setting is my way of keeping the original number of clicks (and adjusters free)
I tend to run them down & up a couple of times once/twice a year just to make sure they stay free.. Probably a paranoia from having other dampers so I just make sure they get a bit of exercise every now & again 
I tend to run them down & up a couple of times once/twice a year just to make sure they stay free.. Probably a paranoia from having other dampers so I just make sure they get a bit of exercise every now & again 
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