Nitrons inverted or not?
Nitrons inverted or not?
Author
Discussion

MischaVisserv8

Original Poster:

161 posts

237 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
good afternoon to you all,

just received my nitrons with eibach springs (f400-r350) very happy
with the set but...

according to nitrons website they are designed to run inverted ok, but what
is the best way to fit them, normal or inverted for fast road driving?

reason for asking; stickers and springnumbers etc. readable when fitted normal not inverted!?

sorry for asking

brgds
mischa




GreenV8S

31,017 posts

313 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
If you mount them inverted the unsprung weight is reduced slightly which improves the car's handling slightly. On practical terms the difference is negligible though.

I'm on my second set of Nitrons, and both times I was told they could be mounted inverted but only if they were bled perfectly, so Nitron would take extra time bleeding them if they knew they were going to be used inverted. I think this implies that as the dampers get old and start getting air in them, inverted dampers will show problems sooner.

On that basis I'd say mount them with the rod at the top, unless you have a compelling reason to invert them. For example if you can only get at the adjuster one way up that could be a compelling reason.

MischaVisserv8

Original Poster:

161 posts

237 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
thanks for yr reaction peter i put them the 'normal' way on the car then.

how many clicks from hard back to soft do you consider good allround?


spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
On the Chim, so I guess also the Griff, its easier to adjust damping from the engine bay, but at the rears from underneath. So thats the way I set mine wink

The degree of difficulty for height adjustment isn't much different whichever way round they are mounted.

MischaVisserv8

Original Poster:

161 posts

237 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
thanks for yr reply spend.
how many clicks do you use front and back?

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
"as little as possible to get the job done" ( a Jooism hehe ) most of our setups / preferences / spring rates will be completely different from yours. Start soft, gradually wind them harder and when you think its no better just back them off a bit... Easy as that wink

MischaVisserv8

Original Poster:

161 posts

237 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
many thanks i'll do that!
can't wait to set things up, enjoy yr weekend.


Chimjunkie

2,879 posts

240 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
Standard Nitron springs - Try 10 front (from fully hard) 12 rear and see how you get on. You may prefer 12F 14R. Dont be tempted to harden them too much to control body roll. This will result in the ride not conforming well to the road and the car being skittish. Fast road and occasional track use 475lb front 400lb rear springs are a good compromise.

MischaVisserv8

Original Poster:

161 posts

237 months

Saturday 29th August 2009
quotequote all
thanks for yr reply chimjunkie.
went for the eibach spring upgrade f400lbs & r350lbs, i'll try what you opted 10 / 12 and check how things go!

wadsapple

3,346 posts

216 months

Sunday 30th August 2009
quotequote all
i don,t have mine inverted either and for fast road i set from soft 13R and 15F

RFC1

1,110 posts

226 months

Sunday 30th August 2009
quotequote all
I have mine fitted with the adjusters at the bottom, means they can be adjusted without jacking car or taking wheels off!!

Sandy

MischaVisserv8

Original Poster:

161 posts

237 months

Sunday 30th August 2009
quotequote all
thanks wadsapple & rfc1 for yr replies!

just checked clearance at back but i can reach the adjuster when fitted
the 'normal' way up without jacking and wheel off. (on the ground and arm behind wheel).

i'm in the middle of revising the front suspension (bushes, balljoints, rubbers, wishbones, new bolts, por15 etc.) nice job very rewarding to see everything new!

when i'm done with the front i'll start at the rear; grinding, por15, bushes, bolts etc.


steve-V8s

2,924 posts

277 months

Sunday 30th August 2009
quotequote all
Should always set Nitrons from full hard not soft. Full hard is a reference point with the valve shut full soft is not. There is not always the same number of clicks between one damper and another so it is quite important.


MischaVisserv8

Original Poster:

161 posts

237 months

Monday 31st August 2009
quotequote all
thanks steve-v8s for yr reply.
btw i have to turn the nitrons to full hard when they're only on the car?
and after that 10 / 12 / 14 clicks to soft what suits the roads here in holland
but i have to check that and try different clicks for my personal choice.

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Monday 31st August 2009
quotequote all
Cycling them to fully soft, fully hard then your setting is my way of keeping the original number of clicks (and adjusters free) hehe I tend to run them down & up a couple of times once/twice a year just to make sure they stay free.. Probably a paranoia from having other dampers so I just make sure they get a bit of exercise every now & again wink

MischaVisserv8

Original Poster:

161 posts

237 months

Monday 31st August 2009
quotequote all
thanks for yr reply spend.
the dampers are serious money so keeping them in good shape is a good thing
to do and you keep yourself in good shape!
can't wait to put everything on my car.