Running in a new cam

[cinquecento]

Planning the details for replacing my cam.. using a V8D stealth cam kit. Engine currently has 40k km (28k miles)

From my research, best practice when rebuilding an entire engine is to use running in oil.. or a zinc additive in mineral oil for the first 1000k.. however what's the story with just running in a cam.

Understand to use lashings of cam lube then 2-3000 rpm for 20 mins on startup.. however are there any oil considerations. I use Castrol 10w60 synthetic oil.

Should I.

1. Not worry. Just use cam lube.
2. Drain the 10w60, use a 10w40 mineral oil with a zinc additive for 1000km then change oil filter and revert to syn 10w60.
3. Drain the 10w60, use a running in oil for 1000km then then change oil filter and revert to syn 10w60.
4. Keep the syn 10w60, add a zinc additive for 1000km then then change oil filter and replace with syn 10w60.
5. Someting else?

Many thanks..

Edited by cinquecento on Wednesday 2nd September 00:20

[GreenV8S]

cinquecento said:

Understand to use lashings of cam lube then 2-3000 rpm for 20 mins on startup..

That's the important bit and the only thing that really matters aiui, and just generally avoid sustained idling for the first few hours of running.

[2Munkys]

^

Yup, and have someone with you for a walk-around doing leak checks etc whilst you have your foot on the gas. Cranking up to those engine speeds with a cold reassembled motor will have all your senses heightened.

[Simon Says]

2Munkys said:

^

Yup, and have someone with you for a walk-around doing leak checks etc whilst you have your foot on the gas. Cranking up to those engine speeds with a cold reassembled motor will have all your senses heightened.

Spot on,always harder to do on your own no matter how well you think you have assembled the motor

[clive f]

think its approx 2000rpm for 15 minutes?

[350Matt]

You raise the rev's whne running in a cam for 2 reasons, it reduces the herzian stresses over the end of the lobe and it ensures the oil pressure is high so there's lots of lube to keep it all cool while it work hardens.

Ideally when you fitted the cam it woudl have been done with some cam lube as this is sticky and tends to stay in place for the first vital minutes of fire-up until fresh oil will displace it. Theres no need to have any different engine oil for this.

[Pupp]

Just contemplating this too; my plan was to build it, double check it, then check some more, then start it and drive it at +2.5k rpm for the requisite half hour or so (easier said than doen I suspect but I live close to the A14 so can blat along that....)

[spend]

It's not really clear whether you are you all saying keep the revs constant or up/down around 2-2.5k?

[Simon Says]

Up around 2 to 2.5k is fine you don't have to make sure it sits rock solid at 2k for example and small fluctuations are good if anything,as long as you dont idle the motor in that 20 minutes that's the main thing,any leaks or problems in this period shut it down,just make sure you resume back to those revs when restarting

[Bodmin]

If you are worried about the engine overheating, if the car is stationary, slacken the block drain tap & run water via a hose pipe, making sure it is routed clear of the cats/manifolds, into the expansion tank....keeps it for the 'bedding in' time. Then refill with the antifreeze mix.

Bodders

[v8 racing]

Bodmin said:

If you are worried about the engine overheating, if the car is stationary, slacken the block drain tap & run water via a hose pipe, making sure it is routed clear of the cats/manifolds, into the expansion tank....keeps it for the 'bedding in' time. Then refill with the antifreeze mix.

Bodders

Sorry but i dont get that?

[GreenV8S]

v8 racing said:

Sorry but i dont get that?

I guess he means run a dead loss cooling system.

[Simon Says]

Quinny said:

Here's how we did Adams

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9NFaaKmNZk

Bloody hell Quinny is there nothing you don't have vids or pics of second thought don't answer that one got any dust on that floor covering in your workshop yet?

[pwd95]

Quinny said:

Here's how we did Adams

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9NFaaKmNZk

Is there a prize if I spot the deliberate mistake?

[cinquecento]

Thanks for all the tips regarding run in....

So it looks like just cam lube is enough.. no need to add anything to the oil and running a cam in using 10w60 fully synthetic oil is OK.?

[pwd95]

Quinny said:

pwd95 said:

Quinny said:

Here's how we did Adams

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9NFaaKmNZk

Is there a prize if I spot the deliberate mistake?

No

We altered the belt later on

Ahh...

[Bodmin]

v8 racing said:

Bodmin said:

If you are worried about the engine overheating, if the car is stationary, slacken the block drain tap & run water via a hose pipe, making sure it is routed clear of the cats/manifolds, into the expansion tank....keeps it for the 'bedding in' time. Then refill with the antifreeze mix.

Bodders

Sorry but i dont get that?

Just using a flushing method to help disapate the heat build up when running a stationary engine for that amount of time & rpm. Helps clear any sediment out of the block capillaries too .

Bodders

[Simon Says]

Quinny said:

Simon Says said:

Bloody hell Quinny is there nothing you don't have vids or pics of second thought don't answer that one got any dust on that floor covering in your workshop yet?

Haven't got any Chim pics....... Won't have em on the driveway

Ouch

[v8 racing]

Bodmin said:

v8 racing said:

Bodmin said:

If you are worried about the engine overheating, if the car is stationary, slacken the block drain tap & run water via a hose pipe, making sure it is routed clear of the cats/manifolds, into the expansion tank....keeps it for the 'bedding in' time. Then refill with the antifreeze mix.

Bodders

Sorry but i dont get that?

Just using a flushing method to help disapate the heat build up when running a stationary engine for that amount of time & rpm. Helps clear any sediment out of the block capillaries too .

Bodders

But surely you are running a real danger of restricting the water upto the heads, and even running the water pump dry thats the bit i dont understand?

[Bodmin]

v8 racing said:

Bodmin said:

v8 racing said:

Bodmin said:

Stuff

Bodders

Sorry but i dont get that?

Stuff

Bodders

But surely you are running a real danger of restricting the water upto the heads, and even running the water pump dry thats the bit i dont understand?

I was assuming that if someone had the technical ability to renew a cam that they would know to remove the thermostat to allow the coolant to flow immeadiatley.

By placing the hose in via the bleed/filler bolt hole on the tank the water will still circulate to the heads/water pump. The volume of water from a domestic 1/2 inch hose far exceeds the volume that the drain can expel so the water level will 'back up' inside the system so I cannot see why you think the heads/pump would run dry

If the cooling system is working 100% efficiently then there should be no problem anyway but we are discussing older engines, circa 40-50,000 miles, where factors such as worn impellars & sediment in the rad or block capillaries may reduce the systems efficiency to disapate heat.....surely that should be a consideration.

As you are working with these engines all the time, if you say you have never had an issue then I will bow to your superior knowledge.

Bodders