Starter motor sticking
Starter motor sticking
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Discussion

joolzb

Original Poster:

3,549 posts

278 months

Friday 2nd January 2004
quotequote all
Ok, it's a well known problem. I fitted some Mod-Wise reflective shielding but unfortunately the motor still won't turn when the engine's hot, the rest of the time it's fine.

Is it worth faffing around with anything or am I better off just getting a new motor?

siwes

347 posts

288 months

Friday 2nd January 2004
quotequote all
Hi
are you sure the motor is sticking and its not bad connections
mine used to be the same , i eventually got under the can and cleaned and retightened every connection and the problem has gone , worth trying
regards
simon

joolzb

Original Poster:

3,549 posts

278 months

Friday 2nd January 2004
quotequote all
siwes said:
Hi
are you sure the motor is sticking and its not bad connections
mine used to be the same , i eventually got under the can and cleaned and retightened every connection and the problem has gone , worth trying
regards
simon

No I'm not at all sure what's happening but it does only do it when the engine has been running for more than say 20 mins, if I leave it for between 10-30 mins, it starts. Retightening the connections sounds like it might be worth trying though before anything else.

pete

1,634 posts

313 months

Friday 2nd January 2004
quotequote all
joolzb said:

No I'm not at all sure what's happening but it does only do it when the engine has been running for more than say 20 mins, if I leave it for between 10-30 mins, it starts.

Sounds like the typical knackered starter solenoid problem to me. If you get it sorted before it packs up completely and leaves you stranded, you have the luxury of getting your existing starter motor reconditioned for about 80 quid. Otherwise you'll have to pay 300 quid for a new one, which is what happened to me

Pete

joolzb

Original Poster:

3,549 posts

278 months

Saturday 3rd January 2004
quotequote all
pete said:

Sounds like the typical knackered starter solenoid problem to me. If you get it sorted before it packs up completely and leaves you stranded, you have the luxury of getting your existing starter motor reconditioned for about 80 quid. Otherwise you'll have to pay 300 quid for a new one, which is what happened to me

Pete

I'm just wondering if re-conditioning is a worth while option, is it likely to fix the problem for good or do problems re-occur. From a monetary perspective I'd rather do that but not if the thing's totally knack'd. I've got little experience of these problems so am interested in what other people have done.

I guess I should have fitted the heat shield earlier

GreenV8S

31,014 posts

313 months

Saturday 3rd January 2004
quotequote all
Its quite normal to get them reconditioned. The heat shield increases the life of the starter but it still won't last forever, and of course if the motor is already knackered when you fit the shield then it won't cure the problem.

5ltr-chim

635 posts

286 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
I had the same problem on my chim - took 1 hour to cool enough. Heat wrapped it and it would take 2 hours so I bought one from HERE NEW - £50 plus p&p &vat

Ballistic Banana

14,706 posts

296 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
5ltr-chim said:
I had the same problem on my chim - took 1 hour to cool enough. Heat wrapped it and it would take 2 hours so I bought one from HERE NEW - £50 plus p&p &vat


Bloody hell thats cheap. How long have you had it on for now,

Simon

mongoose

4,360 posts

284 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
Ballistic Banana said:

5ltr-chim said:
I had the same problem on my chim - took 1 hour to cool enough. Heat wrapped it and it would take 2 hours so I bought one from HERE NEW - £50 plus p&p &vat



Bloody hell thats cheap.

Simon
couldnt have put it better BB.id definately go for a new one after previous experience of getting through 4 re-con units in as many months on my old chimp.and these were from a well known specialist.now i know that my experience isnt the norm,but it goes to show how good a re-con needs to be to get a decent life out of it.id buy new next time without question,more for piece of mind than anything else.

Ballistic Banana

14,706 posts

296 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
I knew that they were about to bring a newer one out soon, as when I went to my local LRover dealer a few months ago they couldnt get hold of a replacement for mine which is just over a year old and starting to play up me thinks,as I have tested everything else.
They could get hold of the Brushes and a few other parts but notthe whole thing. Plus it would cost a round £250-£300 .
It makes me wonder though what sort of quality it is gonna be for that price? Thats why I was asking about how long its been on Time and Miles.
Seen teh same oen on other LR sites for £120...


Simon( of to order one anyhow)

5ltr-chim

635 posts

286 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
Only been on about a month so far (~700-800 miles). So far so good.
It sounds different as if its turning faster. It comes with a years guarantee so nothing to loose really.

If I get a problem with it I'll post up about it as a warning to others.

joolzb

Original Poster:

3,549 posts

278 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
5ltr-chim said:
I had the same problem on my chim - took 1 hour to cool enough. Heat wrapped it and it would take 2 hours



Funny enough that seems pretty familiar, mines not quite that bad at the mo (15 mins before heat shield and now 30+ mins).

Seems like I have three options here
1) To get my current one recon'd. I'm interested if anybody thinks I'm wasting my time with the symptoms I've described i.e. starts ok when cold no probs but 30 mins drive and it's stuck

2) Take a bit of a risk on the interweb one. (from reading the bible it appears that there were a number that were used over time so looks like I might end up with the wrong one?)

3) Just go and get a fecking new one

BTW, has anyone removed and re-fitted this themselves, looks pretty simple in the bible albeit possibly a bit fiddly.


>> Edited by joolzb on Monday 5th January 21:29

Big_M

5,602 posts

292 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
We found leaving the engine running until the fans cut out really helped the problem. Never cut out if we remembered to do this - remembering was the problem. We did end up replacing the starter motor and doing the heat shield thing and haven't had any problems since.

Ballistic Banana

14,706 posts

296 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
joolzb said:


2) Take a bit of a risk on the interweb one. (from reading the bible it appears that there were a number that were used over time so looks like I might end up with the wrong one?)



BTW, has anyone removed and re-fitted this themselves, looks pretty simple in the bible albeit possibly a bit fiddly.


>> Edited by joolzb on Monday 5th January 21:29


I think the one on The website is a replacement one for all the ones they did, as told by local dealer a while back. so would hope it fits and does seem to an the 97 Chimeara.
I have changed mine in the past and the only fiddly part is reaching the top Bolt(allen Bolt) got some one to guide me in from above as you need to be under the car to actually reach it. Also it is advised to change these allen bolts for normall ones.
Cant remember the size of the top of my head.

BB

5ltr-chim

635 posts

286 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all


There were two different ones as far as I could establish. Earlier ones had a Lucas and later have a Bosch (smaller diameter). Mine was definately a Bosch ('97 500)

Removal/replacement is not difficult - the longest part is getting the thing up high enough to get the axle stands under.

From my experience you'll need two 6" extensions for your ratchet, a 8mm hex bit for the bolts and a 12mm spanner for the positive connection.

Ensure the engine is cool enough not to burn and the car safely on stands. Disconnect the battery - leaving a door open or roof off.

Undo 12mm nut remove two large wires and pull lucas connect with small wire from solenoid. Then undo bolts. Move starter towards front of car and tilt through opening.

Then as they say in the Haynes manuals - reassembly is the reverse .... etc ...

joolzb

Original Poster:

3,549 posts

278 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
Thanks chaps, was gonna get a mechanic to do it but might give it a go myself (and get him to fix my mess afterwards ). I believe he removed it before so hopefully the bolts should shift easily.

5ltr-chim

635 posts

286 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
Dare I say that it's easy enough that if you haven't done it by the next Virginia Waters meet in Feb - give me a shout a day or two before and I could possibly be persuaded to give a demo in the carpark! (i.e. change it for you)

joolzb

Original Poster:

3,549 posts

278 months

Monday 5th January 2004
quotequote all
5ltr-chim said:
Dare I say that it's easy enough that if you haven't done it by the next Virginia Waters meet in Feb - give me a shout a day or two before and I could possibly be persuaded to give a demo in the carpark! (i.e. change it for you)

Cheers, that's a bloody kind offer. I will try and get it done before then though but don't dismiss an email

JoolzB

Original Poster:

3,549 posts

278 months

Sunday 18th July 2004
quotequote all
Thought I'd update this thread as my car is no longer suffering from hot start probs(fingers crossed).

Had the car serviced last week and the mechanic suspected the starter motor itself(a newish one from Brockwells).

Put the old Bosch starter on yesterday and it's running fine. I can't say what the problem was because I made a few mods whilst the new starter was fitted which were

1) New earth from battery to block.
2) Voltage boosted to starter solenoid via ign.
3) Replaced alternator fuse to battery and cleaned up all the connections.

A massive thanks to David Beer (yet again) who came up with the ideas and the solenoid booster.