Griff has to go on a diet
Discussion
ked without a fuel tank 
The car is primarily used for hill climbing and to keep the weight down usually I run with only enough fuel to get up the hill and back + a bit. A smaller tank, say 5 litres would be more than enough to get to and from the hill.
Last winter I went after more power, and there is still a fair bit more to come from the current engine. However for competition it is all about Power to Weight ratio and losing weight is the same as gaining power with the added benefit that it stops better as well. I have already done all the easy stuff. Boot lid and roof could be a lot lighter and the exhaust system seems mighty heavy.
I was just wondering if anybody currently had their tank out and could give me an idea of the weight. Also would be interested to know what the radiator weighs compared to an ally one.
Last winter I went after more power, and there is still a fair bit more to come from the current engine. However for competition it is all about Power to Weight ratio and losing weight is the same as gaining power with the added benefit that it stops better as well. I have already done all the easy stuff. Boot lid and roof could be a lot lighter and the exhaust system seems mighty heavy.
I was just wondering if anybody currently had their tank out and could give me an idea of the weight. Also would be interested to know what the radiator weighs compared to an ally one.
I've had all of them in hands but not weighed them Steve. From memory I'd only describe the winders as heavy, but that is mainly the motors and that the winders seem unbalanced to handle.
The weight of water in the heater circuit would be more significant IMHO. I did once get my hands on a CCannister that was barfed, it had become pretty heavy due to being full of fuel
The weight of water in the heater circuit would be more significant IMHO. I did once get my hands on a CCannister that was barfed, it had become pretty heavy due to being full of fuel
The fuel tank is very light, not worth changing.
Off the top of my head the Standard seats are 15 kg each, Carpets are about 30kg, Radio, speakers, 6 stack CD were about 10 kg.
I taken about 80kg out of mine.
I've written all my weight loss items down in my little black book but it's at home and I'm not so can't detail everthing.
Off the top of my head the Standard seats are 15 kg each, Carpets are about 30kg, Radio, speakers, 6 stack CD were about 10 kg.
I taken about 80kg out of mine.
I've written all my weight loss items down in my little black book but it's at home and I'm not so can't detail everthing.
Something thats always made me curious is the difference in weight between the serps & pre-serps. Never actually weighed them, but when handling the cranks there does seem to be quite significant differences them? The serps also seem to have some really unnecessary long pipe runs (full of water - which is quite heavy). As well as all the periphery for whirly belt - ok its mainly ally.. No-one seems to bring up any of these subjects when commenting on engine weights (mainly the RV8 - LSx - AJP engine war threads).
Still seems to me that those damned uprights are somewhere a lot of weight could be trimmed from.
Still seems to me that those damned uprights are somewhere a lot of weight could be trimmed from.
spend said:
Still seems to me that those damned uprights are somewhere a lot of weight could be trimmed from.
Steve Heath mentioned a few years ago that he knew of a company that was developing some lighter ones. But since Tuscan Challenge cars started losing wheels after TVR's ill-advised attempt at weight saving (um .. I suspect that needs a few "allegedly"s in there) I can't help thinking boring strong reliable (but heavy) standard parts have a lot going for them.steve-V8s said:
However for competition it is all about Power to Weight ratio and losing weight is the same as gaining power with the added benefit that it stops better as well...
I fully agree with you, I've dropped about 300kgs from my C3 Vette(from 3.550lbs down to 2.770...) and then I swappedd in a SB dinoed at 575hp (from ''American speed'' co. of Ill...the same chevy engine builders that supply ''Ultima'') in exchange for its disgusting low pollution L48.
I've been thinking for sometime now to start a winter ''weight dropping'' on my griffith too...my ''victims'' would be:
Heater and ancillaries (I have no A/C already).
Roof.
Power windows, doors fully gutted.
Race battery which I have already.
Alu radiator, which is already in.
Lightweight seat, already in.
Lexan windshield that I COULN'T FIND YET (any address?).
Fuel cell in place of the fuel tank.
Any other ideas, apart on going myself on a diet?
Fasteners will help. but are expensive.
Titanium suspension bolts for example, are 4.75...ea! and theres alot.
you only need titanium in stressed parts, ally fixings will do otherwise, but again. expensive.
M8x40 is also around £5 for 5.
You can remove the whole dash/clocks and replace with stack.
cut out the floor/tunnel and replace with ally again.
Wheel arches for plastic ones glassed in.
The doors are very heavy as has been said, so they can be hole sawed and stripped, but too much and they'd leak. No motors/solonoids obviously.
Lexan for Glass, well difficult to get done for a road car. Racers have these nailed the bonded in.
(wipers scratch them easily)
Rear Tub can be cut out and replaced with single or double layer F/Glass. (Road car tub is 6ply min)
Smaller radiator for short hill climbs(less water)
No alternator (battery runs car for 15mins or so on ignition only)
Fuel tanks a waste of time, Pump it dry with a syphon and add what you need only. 1L per min. (Make sure you have a swirl pot or good fuel delivery)
Its alot of work and expense.
You can just follow the old racers addage. "anything that comes off...goes on lighter or not at all" either by the hole saw/ file replacement etc.
Strength and integrity must be maintained tho...as Pete says. I think Lotus killed a guy by trimmimg too much in the 60-70s.
And as has also been said, other than Danny Winstanley and possibly Marc Hockin, there isn't a driver in our Paddock that couldn't lose 2 stone...including me...
Titanium suspension bolts for example, are 4.75...ea! and theres alot.
you only need titanium in stressed parts, ally fixings will do otherwise, but again. expensive.
M8x40 is also around £5 for 5.
You can remove the whole dash/clocks and replace with stack.
cut out the floor/tunnel and replace with ally again.
Wheel arches for plastic ones glassed in.
The doors are very heavy as has been said, so they can be hole sawed and stripped, but too much and they'd leak. No motors/solonoids obviously.
Lexan for Glass, well difficult to get done for a road car. Racers have these nailed the bonded in.
(wipers scratch them easily)
Rear Tub can be cut out and replaced with single or double layer F/Glass. (Road car tub is 6ply min)
Smaller radiator for short hill climbs(less water)
No alternator (battery runs car for 15mins or so on ignition only)
Fuel tanks a waste of time, Pump it dry with a syphon and add what you need only. 1L per min. (Make sure you have a swirl pot or good fuel delivery)
Its alot of work and expense.
You can just follow the old racers addage. "anything that comes off...goes on lighter or not at all" either by the hole saw/ file replacement etc.
Strength and integrity must be maintained tho...as Pete says. I think Lotus killed a guy by trimmimg too much in the 60-70s.
And as has also been said, other than Danny Winstanley and possibly Marc Hockin, there isn't a driver in our Paddock that couldn't lose 2 stone...including me...
Edited by Guillotine on Sunday 20th September 17:47
Guillotine said:
cut out the floor/tunnel and replace with ally again.
The doors are very heavy as has been said, so they can be hole sawed and stripped, but too much and they'd leak. No motors/solonoids obviously.
Lexan for Glass, well difficult to get done for a road car. Racers have these nailed the bonded in.
Rear Tub can be cut out and replaced with single or double layer F/Glass.
Guillotine, pls let me bother you with a couple of question...:The doors are very heavy as has been said, so they can be hole sawed and stripped, but too much and they'd leak. No motors/solonoids obviously.
Lexan for Glass, well difficult to get done for a road car. Racers have these nailed the bonded in.
Rear Tub can be cut out and replaced with single or double layer F/Glass.
What are made of the tunnel and the floor? Isn't it fiberglass? would be an alloy thin sheet lighter?
Lexan: it's sometimes now I'm looking for a windshield made of lexan but with no result...I understand once I've got it I should also retrim it but the problem is that I don't even find a semi-processed item...
What's the ''rear tube''...this one sounds a stupid question but if I don't ask I will never know...
Thanks
Hi,
No probs...
Ali sheeting is lighter then fibreglass, by a fair bit. If swaged (spelling) its strong too.
By the rear tub I mean the rear parcel shelf, and the upright where the speakers are. This includes the seatbelt mounts which are suprisingly heavy as they are strengthened. OK if you have a roll bar/cage.
Lexan comes in flat sheets so shaping is a problem. Google race windows etc, there is a company that will replicate any window. Again its will cost and I doubt if they've done a Griff.
Another thought.
Race wheels. In the extreme, C/Fibre wheels save around 40kg a set !!
Cheers
No probs...
Ali sheeting is lighter then fibreglass, by a fair bit. If swaged (spelling) its strong too.
By the rear tub I mean the rear parcel shelf, and the upright where the speakers are. This includes the seatbelt mounts which are suprisingly heavy as they are strengthened. OK if you have a roll bar/cage.
Lexan comes in flat sheets so shaping is a problem. Google race windows etc, there is a company that will replicate any window. Again its will cost and I doubt if they've done a Griff.
Another thought.
Race wheels. In the extreme, C/Fibre wheels save around 40kg a set !!
Cheers
Light weight doors are an interesting idea. I know the 911 boys run some American doors which are a lot lighter that the original, as do some of the loti. Any idea what the Griff doors weigh ? Having just lifted the exhaust system I would think that could be a fair bit lighter if made from thinner gauge tubing. First thing I did was the Battery, Radio, CD, Speakers and carpets, That saved an easy 23kg. Also done the seats or rather seat as I normally only have one light weight one fitted. Ditching the Lucas ECU and 83meters of spare Landover loom lost a bit as well. Boot and bonnet and roof could be a lot lighter and the Silicone smooth bore induction pipe has to go, that weighs a ton.
steve-V8s said:
Light weight doors are an interesting idea.
First thing I did was the Battery, Radio, CD, Speakers and carpets, That saved an easy 23kg.
Ditching the Lucas ECU and 83meters of spare Landover loom lost a bit as well. Boot and bonnet and roof could be a lot lighter
Doors could be totally gutted, I guess the FB nutshell is light as a feather.First thing I did was the Battery, Radio, CD, Speakers and carpets, That saved an easy 23kg.
Ditching the Lucas ECU and 83meters of spare Landover loom lost a bit as well. Boot and bonnet and roof could be a lot lighter
Carpets: you mean the whole interior?
I think boot is pretty light, what appears to be very heavy is the bonnet...any lighter alternative?
I'm still looking for a custom lexan windshiled...
Just weighed the standard boot lid without hardware and it is 8Kg the one. I have on the car however is closer to 14 because it has a spoiler bolted on. Think should be able to replicate the shape for less than 3-4 Kg Haven’t taken out all the carpets, just the foot well and under seat ones, the others are very thin.
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