Discussion
Feckit. Bugger. s
t. wk.
Removed the dash last week to re-affix the temperature gauge which had fallen out the back. My fault - I replaced the dash earlier in the year and obviously didn't apply enough or too much araldite. Went out to put the dash back in and long story short - dropped the fecking thing.
Three or four gauges now detached.
I know dropping the thing is beyond normal use but surely there's a better way of fitting the gauges? I really can't face the hassle again. I seem to remember Griffter had done something clever with tubes or pipes but can't find it anywhere. Any suggestions? Please.
t. wk.Removed the dash last week to re-affix the temperature gauge which had fallen out the back. My fault - I replaced the dash earlier in the year and obviously didn't apply enough or too much araldite. Went out to put the dash back in and long story short - dropped the fecking thing.
Three or four gauges now detached.
I know dropping the thing is beyond normal use but surely there's a better way of fitting the gauges? I really can't face the hassle again. I seem to remember Griffter had done something clever with tubes or pipes but can't find it anywhere. Any suggestions? Please.
Ouch ... not good 'drop testing' a TVR Griffith dashboard.
Perhaps you could use something like the 360 deg Spin-lok mounting ring from VDO, see here:
http://www.etbinstruments.com/VDO_Range.htm
Be interested to see how you progress on this one, my dashboard is falling to bits with veneer flaking off and instruments disappearing into the dash void.
Perhaps you could use something like the 360 deg Spin-lok mounting ring from VDO, see here:
http://www.etbinstruments.com/VDO_Range.htm
Be interested to see how you progress on this one, my dashboard is falling to bits with veneer flaking off and instruments disappearing into the dash void.
Grover, I feel for you! Rebuilt a precat dash last week for a car that has been in. The dash had been refurbed but all the tabs have to come off to do that job.
Spent quite a few hours putting them all back on!
I have been thinking about getting some rings made that can be glued on the back of the dash ,but still allow the gauges to be recessed.
The idea being that there will be more surface contact area for the adhesive,so a stronger hold.
It wouldn't take much machining to make what I am thinking off, and of course there are only two sizes to make.
Now if only someone could produce a cad drawing to start with......
Spent quite a few hours putting them all back on!
I have been thinking about getting some rings made that can be glued on the back of the dash ,but still allow the gauges to be recessed.
The idea being that there will be more surface contact area for the adhesive,so a stronger hold.
It wouldn't take much machining to make what I am thinking off, and of course there are only two sizes to make.
Now if only someone could produce a cad drawing to start with......
davep said:
Ouch ... not good 'drop testing' a TVR Griffith dashboard.
Perhaps you could use something like the 360 deg Spin-lok mounting ring from VDO, see here:
http://www.etbinstruments.com/VDO_Range.htm
Be interested to see how you progress on this one, my dashboard is falling to bits with veneer flaking off and instruments disappearing into the dash void.
Hmmm. Had a chat with ETB Instruments; interesting, but the spin-lok mounting rings won't work. I sent them a couple of photos:Perhaps you could use something like the 360 deg Spin-lok mounting ring from VDO, see here:
http://www.etbinstruments.com/VDO_Range.htm
Be interested to see how you progress on this one, my dashboard is falling to bits with veneer flaking off and instruments disappearing into the dash void.
to try to demonstrate the issue. Because the holes are way bigger than the gauges nothing they have would suit. He did suggest making a backing plate with the 'correct' hole sizes so that the clamps would work as they're designed to do, which has some legs.
I'll try to mock something up and give it a try but that's going to take some time and I need the car back on the road next week. Probably have to bodge it for now and look at it properly over the winter.What about earth studs.. we fire these onto sheet metal even when painted and it don't harm the front... what's the dash made of?... they are great on steel obviously... and will work on Ali... (but may mark the front if it's Ali so take care)... Most sheet metal firms will have a gun and studs...
Sea Siders what!!
Sea Siders what!!
Ant. said:
I have been thinking about getting some rings made that can be glued on the back of the dash ,but still allow the gauges to be recessed.
That's what I did - using section of PVC drain pipe fro a DIY store. You can araldite all the way round for a good bond. I then 'sealed' with sikaflex to hold each pod in case the araldite ever broke. Finally, if you flex the dash a little to curve it as it is in situ, as the glue is drying, you stress the glue less when you refit.Not had my dash out so not familiar with the method for holding the instruments in place. Are they mounted from from the back or front of the dash? I had assumed they were pushed through from the front.
Whenever I've worked on this style of instrument they are pushed through from the front of the dash. The bracket that is visible on the back of the instrument in the photos is the put on the instrument and the nuts tightened up until the legs press on the dashboard and hold it in place.
Looking at the pictures though the legs are not long enough and need to be wider to reach the dashboard material. If you could get some different brackets then that should work. However it looks like those glued on clips are clipping onto the instrument bezel which would seem to indicate that they are mounted from the back of the dash. or do the brakets push on the clips to hold the instrument in place?
Whenever I've worked on this style of instrument they are pushed through from the front of the dash. The bracket that is visible on the back of the instrument in the photos is the put on the instrument and the nuts tightened up until the legs press on the dashboard and hold it in place.
Looking at the pictures though the legs are not long enough and need to be wider to reach the dashboard material. If you could get some different brackets then that should work. However it looks like those glued on clips are clipping onto the instrument bezel which would seem to indicate that they are mounted from the back of the dash. or do the brakets push on the clips to hold the instrument in place?
griffter said:
Ant. said:
I have been thinking about getting some rings made that can be glued on the back of the dash ,but still allow the gauges to be recessed.
That's what I did - using section of PVC drain pipe fro a DIY store. You can araldite all the way round for a good bond. I then 'sealed' with sikaflex to hold each pod in case the araldite ever broke. Finally, if you flex the dash a little to curve it as it is in situ, as the glue is drying, you stress the glue less when you refit.Its a fab mod I reckon griffter.
Can I ask, did you put any foam or anything inside the pipes to 'grip' the instrument (oooerrr!)
and did you put anything in there to stop the instruments being pushed into the dash
Barreti said:
Can I ask, did you put any foam or anything inside the pipes to 'grip' the instrument (oooerrr!)
and did you put anything in there to stop the instruments being pushed into the dash
Yes, I used adhesive draught excluder (from the same DIY store) wrapped around each guage body near to the bezel, to provide a tight push fit. The great advantage, apart from more secure fitting, is that you can adjust the angle of the guages from the front, just by twisting them, and you can pull them out from the front - should you need to - e.g. to change a bulb.and did you put anything in there to stop the instruments being pushed into the dash
I kept the standard mounting for speedo and tacho btw as they are so big, and the dash flexes quite a lot around them, but I used extra brackets left over from the other guages.
Forgive me, I've never been bright. I still can't get this clear in mind.
You have ABS pipe or similar with an i/d of approximately 54mm to accept the 52mm dia gauges and adhesive draught excluder? The holes in the dash are 58mm so the o/d must be bigger than that to provide a decent bonding surface. Are the gauges held in place by friction alone?
Maybe I'll pop to B&Q to see what's available...
You have ABS pipe or similar with an i/d of approximately 54mm to accept the 52mm dia gauges and adhesive draught excluder? The holes in the dash are 58mm so the o/d must be bigger than that to provide a decent bonding surface. Are the gauges held in place by friction alone?
Maybe I'll pop to B&Q to see what's available...
They are actually 'recessed' LG, in an attempt to clear up any confusion with the later 'flush' fitters 
I flush fitted my ETB's, but I don't think the dials are as deep as the Stewart Warner ones. When I looked at recessing them so that the bevel front was flush with the dash, I think it was a case of cutting 2 rings to bond to the back of the dash so you could have the 'step' in the right place. After I fannied around with a few bits of plastic I decided to waste my time on other things rather than rely on araldite to hold the things in - did seem a bit esoteric whether the bezel protruded or not in reflection
If you want some patterns knocking up for rings to be cut give me a shout, its only a 5 min job with the measurements.
I flush fitted my ETB's, but I don't think the dials are as deep as the Stewart Warner ones. When I looked at recessing them so that the bevel front was flush with the dash, I think it was a case of cutting 2 rings to bond to the back of the dash so you could have the 'step' in the right place. After I fannied around with a few bits of plastic I decided to waste my time on other things rather than rely on araldite to hold the things in - did seem a bit esoteric whether the bezel protruded or not in reflection
If you want some patterns knocking up for rings to be cut give me a shout, its only a 5 min job with the measurements.
Ant. said:
I have been thinking about getting some rings made that can be glued on the back of the dash ,but still allow the gauges to be recessed.
The idea being that there will be more surface contact area for the adhesive,so a stronger hold.
It wouldn't take much machining to make what I am thinking off, and of course there are only two sizes to make.
The idea being that there will be more surface contact area for the adhesive,so a stronger hold.
It wouldn't take much machining to make what I am thinking off, and of course there are only two sizes to make.
cunninglinguist said:
Why not make an alloy ring with a stepped inner edge for the clock(s) to sit in, bond the ring to the back of the dash, and of the correct thickness the mounting bracket legs will reach it?
Why didn't I think of that??? 
Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff