Running hot, very confused!
Discussion
Dear All
Having fixed the hole in the swirl pot (see thread "split in swirl pot") I took the Griff out for a drive. The temperature rose very quickly so I pulled over. Noticed the fans weren't working, so disconnected the wires from the rad switch and joined them together so the fans would run permanently. The problem is this didn't reduce the engine temperature!
So now I'm left thinking, is it:
1) a faulty temp gauge?
2) a dead water pump?
3) an air block in the coolant system following the swirl pot issue?
What's the resolution to these possible causes?
Thanks
Sam
Having fixed the hole in the swirl pot (see thread "split in swirl pot") I took the Griff out for a drive. The temperature rose very quickly so I pulled over. Noticed the fans weren't working, so disconnected the wires from the rad switch and joined them together so the fans would run permanently. The problem is this didn't reduce the engine temperature!
So now I'm left thinking, is it:
1) a faulty temp gauge?
2) a dead water pump?
3) an air block in the coolant system following the swirl pot issue?
What's the resolution to these possible causes?
Thanks
Sam
Edited by SamPet on Saturday 17th October 12:03
SP
How did the swirl pot get a hole in it ? Have you just had a cam fitted ? It follows an air lock theory as highlighted but just wondering about other causes perhaps.
There is a bleed bolt fitted on some of the radiators at the top o/s, so start by making sure the rad is absolutely full off coolant. Then make sure you fill from the swirl pot and not the expansion bottle.
Heater matrix set to hot.
I also drill a small bleed hole in the top of the Thermostat to help as well . .
Then I would run the car with the expansion bottle cap off. Letting the air bubble out through it. I've done mine this way for several years and you'll lose a bit of coolant, but you get the most amount of air out. Once you think you've got the most out and that it'll just be coolant being lost button it all back up and then run the car on a small trip. Let it all cool down and then check the level in the swirl pot (will be just below the level of the expansion tank overflow pipe).
If the level is well down, repeat ad nauseum until you get all the air out . .
if the level is OK then close that and check the level in the expansion bottle, top up what is required. Mine likes to run at about 1/3 full, others like to be higher, each car is different IME.
How did the swirl pot get a hole in it ? Have you just had a cam fitted ? It follows an air lock theory as highlighted but just wondering about other causes perhaps.
There is a bleed bolt fitted on some of the radiators at the top o/s, so start by making sure the rad is absolutely full off coolant. Then make sure you fill from the swirl pot and not the expansion bottle.
Heater matrix set to hot.
I also drill a small bleed hole in the top of the Thermostat to help as well . .
Then I would run the car with the expansion bottle cap off. Letting the air bubble out through it. I've done mine this way for several years and you'll lose a bit of coolant, but you get the most amount of air out. Once you think you've got the most out and that it'll just be coolant being lost button it all back up and then run the car on a small trip. Let it all cool down and then check the level in the swirl pot (will be just below the level of the expansion tank overflow pipe).
If the level is well down, repeat ad nauseum until you get all the air out . .
if the level is OK then close that and check the level in the expansion bottle, top up what is required. Mine likes to run at about 1/3 full, others like to be higher, each car is different IME.
Johno said:
SP
How did the swirl pot get a hole in it ? Have you just had a cam fitted ? It follows an air lock theory as highlighted but just wondering about other causes perhaps.
There is a bleed bolt fitted on some of the radiators at the top o/s, so start by making sure the rad is absolutely full off coolant. Then make sure you fill from the swirl pot and not the expansion bottle.
Heater matrix set to hot.
I also drill a small bleed hole in the top of the Thermostat to help as well . .
Then I would run the car with the expansion bottle cap off. Letting the air bubble out through it. I've done mine this way for several years and you'll lose a bit of coolant, but you get the most amount of air out. Once you think you've got the most out and that it'll just be coolant being lost button it all back up and then run the car on a small trip. Let it all cool down and then check the level in the swirl pot (will be just below the level of the expansion tank overflow pipe).
If the level is well down, repeat ad nauseum until you get all the air out . .
if the level is OK then close that and check the level in the expansion bottle, top up what is required. Mine likes to run at about 1/3 full, others like to be higher, each car is different IME.
Hi JohnoHow did the swirl pot get a hole in it ? Have you just had a cam fitted ? It follows an air lock theory as highlighted but just wondering about other causes perhaps.
There is a bleed bolt fitted on some of the radiators at the top o/s, so start by making sure the rad is absolutely full off coolant. Then make sure you fill from the swirl pot and not the expansion bottle.
Heater matrix set to hot.
I also drill a small bleed hole in the top of the Thermostat to help as well . .
Then I would run the car with the expansion bottle cap off. Letting the air bubble out through it. I've done mine this way for several years and you'll lose a bit of coolant, but you get the most amount of air out. Once you think you've got the most out and that it'll just be coolant being lost button it all back up and then run the car on a small trip. Let it all cool down and then check the level in the swirl pot (will be just below the level of the expansion tank overflow pipe).
If the level is well down, repeat ad nauseum until you get all the air out . .
if the level is OK then close that and check the level in the expansion bottle, top up what is required. Mine likes to run at about 1/3 full, others like to be higher, each car is different IME.
The swirl pot got a split in it from what I suspect is a worn engine mount, allowing the engine to twist and the power steering pump to angle-grind the swirl pot.
I have just had a cam replace! What difference would that make?
Thanks for the guidance on the air lock removal. I will give this a go. Fingers crossed. I may well be back on here if I can't sort it.
Thanks
Sam
Any relatively major engine work comes with issues. I'm not suggesting anything is wrong at all and it will most likely be an air lock or similar . . just wanted to see what other factors may have come into play.
As with all these issues, normally something has changed/broked/been modified which causes the issues. Therefore by process of elimination I would always revisit the basics first and then if this doesn't solve it check what other changes have been made recently.
How many miles have you done since the cam was done, probably can discount it on that basis straight away if you've done a few ?
As with all these issues, normally something has changed/broked/been modified which causes the issues. Therefore by process of elimination I would always revisit the basics first and then if this doesn't solve it check what other changes have been made recently.
How many miles have you done since the cam was done, probably can discount it on that basis straight away if you've done a few ?
Johno said:
Any relatively major engine work comes with issues. I'm not suggesting anything is wrong at all and it will most likely be an air lock or similar . . just wanted to see what other factors may have come into play.
As with all these issues, normally something has changed/broked/been modified which causes the issues. Therefore by process of elimination I would always revisit the basics first and then if this doesn't solve it check what other changes have been made recently.
How many miles have you done since the cam was done, probably can discount it on that basis straight away if you've done a few ?
I've done about 800 miles since the work, so I don't think it's anything directly linked, unless the engine mount wasn't tightened properly and it's caused the aforementioned issues.As with all these issues, normally something has changed/broked/been modified which causes the issues. Therefore by process of elimination I would always revisit the basics first and then if this doesn't solve it check what other changes have been made recently.
How many miles have you done since the cam was done, probably can discount it on that basis straight away if you've done a few ?
I'm so p**sed off. I really thought that having spent a fortune on it, I'd not need to do any more work...you live and learn!
Tomorrow, I'm going to follow your air lock removal guide (there is a bolt on the O/S of the rad so that's a start).
Thanks for the replies. I'll update you as to my progress.
Sam
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