Two questions...please chim inside :-))

[panic]

I have two questions for you guys (I know lately I've been asking for your benevolence quite often...):

I have the vacuum desconnected in my Griffith 500, should I tap the vacuum advance unit? and where is the other end (I might follow the vacuu tube I guess) to be tappered then? In my Chevy engine I have tapped the vacuum end and the other end is in the carb...

and...

I have an oil cooler in my ''near stock'' 500 engine (only have bigger airmeter, triple carbon act plenum+intake, decatted sport exhaust and tornado chip...), can I dump it (I ean the oil cooler...)and go back to stock setup without prob? I love spirited driving but never run on a track.... I need to make some room in the undercarriage and front end...

Thanks a lot and have a sweet weekend.
G

Edited by panic on Saturday 24th October 16:25

[haircutmike]

Oil Cooler;.......Only really needed for hard track use, stops the oil from thinning which causes a loss of oil pressure when heavy braking and cornering.

You will definitely not achieve this on the road!

As to your other question.....................

Peter.

[Hoover.]

haircutmike said:

Oil Cooler;.......Only really needed for hard track use, stops the oil from thinning which causes a loss of oil pressure when heavy braking and cornering.

You will definitely not achieve this on the road!

As to your other question.....................

Peter.

ummm..... I seem to manage to loose oil pressure on the road under heavy cornering and breaking only after some... say giving it some beans on twisty back roads using a lot of lower gear)...... under normalish use not an issue....... so may be an oil cooler is the way forward, surely can't do any harm aprat from add some weight, which I can loose by going on a diet.

[RichB]

I've never felt the need for an oil-cooler, do you suffer a total drop of oil pressure if so perhaps yo need a baffled sump or is it just a gradual drop in pressure you are worried about, in which case try a different oil? I've used Mobil 1 15w50 with no problems...

[spend]

Even LR's have an oil cooler as standard... I would keep it, even more so in your climate.

Vac pipe, yes bung the pipes / tails, you can even pull out the stub on the plenum, tap and insert a bolt... a bit of silicone on the dizzy advance just to keep the crap out should be fine - if the dizzy still has one?

[RichB]

spend said:

Even LR's have an oil cooler as standard... I would keep it, even more so in your climate.

Oh yes, I forgot he is in Italy.

[GreenV8S]

Hoover. said:

ummm..... I seem to manage to loose oil pressure on the road under heavy cornering and breaking only after some... say giving it some beans on twisty back roads using a lot of lower gear)...... under normalish use not an issue....... so may be an oil cooler is the way forward, surely can't do any harm aprat from add some weight, which I can loose by going on a diet.

That sounds like oil surge rather than the oil getting hot. Oil coolers should only be required if you're doing a sustained high load (towing up hill, for example) when the cooling system is also highly stressed (low speed / high load). In something light like a TVR the more power you have the less time you can use it, so I'd only expect an oil cooler to be needed in extreme situations.

If you want to find out whether yours is doing any good, disconnect it (just connect the two hoses to each other to bypass it) and see whether you suffer from low oil pressure / high oil temperature.

[panic]

Shouldn't a longer engine oil path, like in the case of an added radiator, need a more powerful pump to keep the oil at the same pressure, at any given same temperature?

Just a thought...

[spend]

panic said:

Shouldn't a longer engine oil path, like in the case of an added radiator, need a more powerful pump to keep the oil at the same pressure, at any given same temperature?

Just a thought...

Thats why the pipe sizes, routing, unions and integral stat need careful consideration rather than just bodging together as many of the SD1 / LR 'kits' are

[panic]

spend said:

panic said:

Shouldn't a longer engine oil path, like in the case of an added radiator, need a more powerful pump to keep the oil at the same pressure, at any given same temperature?

Just a thought...

Thats why the pipe sizes, routing, unions and integral stat need careful consideration rather than just bodging together as many of the SD1 / LR 'kits' are

I supposed so...and this might be the very reason why my engine never seems to get the proper oil pressure since I fixed a front oil rad...

[haircutmike]

panic said:

spend said:

panic said:

Shouldn't a longer engine oil path, like in the case of an added radiator, need a more powerful pump to keep the oil at the same pressure, at any given same temperature?

Just a thought...

Thats why the pipe sizes, routing, unions and integral stat need careful consideration rather than just bodging together as many of the SD1 / LR 'kits' are

I supposed so...and this might be the very reason why my engine never seems to get the proper oil pressure since I fixed a front oil rad...

Don't rely on your electric gauge, they are notoriously wrong, mine reads 30 psi most of the time but is actually about 50 psi when checked with a mechanical gauge and I have a oil cooler kit fitted.

Peter.