Radiator Removal - HELP
Discussion
I am in the process of removing the radiator and I am having problems removing the Alarm Siren bracket.
I can't find how to get to the nuts in the inner wing, or are they captive?
Ive tried getting to them via the back of the headlamp pod, but I can't get my hand in far enough and before I force it and dislodge something I shouldn't, can someone confirm if this the way to get to them.
Also can you get the rad out with out removing it?
Many thanks
RAS
I can't find how to get to the nuts in the inner wing, or are they captive?
Ive tried getting to them via the back of the headlamp pod, but I can't get my hand in far enough and before I force it and dislodge something I shouldn't, can someone confirm if this the way to get to them.
Also can you get the rad out with out removing it?
Many thanks
RAS
I changed my radiator in the summer, had same issue with siren bracket - mounted on bulkhead - got one nut off through access hole which allowed bracket to rotate on other, then bent bracket to allow radiator to pass.
Have fun with the rad, self and helper both had sore backs and legs for days, it's not the easiest of jobs.
Have fun with the rad, self and helper both had sore backs and legs for days, it's not the easiest of jobs.
Waiting arrival of helper
Self is very wet and already has soar fingers and that's before the lift.
So should it be fan trays on or off before the lift, I assume by tilting and lifting the rad a little it gives access to the lower fan tray bolts?
Many thanks for gratefully appreciated timely help
Self is very wet and already has soar fingers and that's before the lift.
So should it be fan trays on or off before the lift, I assume by tilting and lifting the rad a little it gives access to the lower fan tray bolts?
Many thanks for gratefully appreciated timely help
You can take the rad out with the fan trays attached. Rad comes out bottom first i.e. hold the rad each side near the bottom,then lift bottom up and rotate bottom towards you.
Before replacing make sure fibreglass edges of fan trays aren't cutting into rad. core as mine were. If they are cover edges with plastic channel or split lawnmower type fuel hose.
I found the single hardest job was the frustration of not being able to remove the alarm....it's now held on with self-tappers to make it easier next time!
Mind your back, this is a surprisingly heavy job!
Before replacing make sure fibreglass edges of fan trays aren't cutting into rad. core as mine were. If they are cover edges with plastic channel or split lawnmower type fuel hose.
I found the single hardest job was the frustration of not being able to remove the alarm....it's now held on with self-tappers to make it easier next time!
Mind your back, this is a surprisingly heavy job!
Hi... I take my rad out for fun.. or it appears that way.. about 5 times this year to date of various reasons!!!!
Bend a M8 ring spanner to get on the nut's from the 1" hole where the cables comes thru.. they are not captive... But fit two insert before you put it back.. makes life a lot easier!.. Remove induction, washer bottle and brackett, Expansion tank, wires from switch etc
Undo the rad... take off pipes (rad side and engine back beyond the chassis)... lift it from the bobbins and up into the nose a bit... Take off the fans (M10 ratchet ring is best).... Ensure the coolant is out... Ensure the bolts on the exhaust Y clamps are not pionting forward (if so cover or turn)... Force the carbon canister pipes around the bottom corner... Ease up into the nose (watch the top pipe inlet does not leaver on the inside of the nose and crack the gel coat!!)Lift the bottom up and out... watch the top connector on the body lip.... assess damage!
On my rad I've reduced the lug size (width of the rad) so it don't scrape the sides on entry / exit.. and have taken a bit off the top pipe connection so it does not go as high and interfear with the induction pipe... Check the bleed screw before it goes back in (just pulled the one in my rad out last week!!)
I'm that experianced now I can get my rad out in 42 mins by myself... I hope you only have to do it once though!!! Not the best of jobs!!!
Replacement is reverse of above... Id put the fans on once in (as Id remove them before trying to get it out).. makes life a lot easier!!)
Bend a M8 ring spanner to get on the nut's from the 1" hole where the cables comes thru.. they are not captive... But fit two insert before you put it back.. makes life a lot easier!.. Remove induction, washer bottle and brackett, Expansion tank, wires from switch etc
Undo the rad... take off pipes (rad side and engine back beyond the chassis)... lift it from the bobbins and up into the nose a bit... Take off the fans (M10 ratchet ring is best).... Ensure the coolant is out... Ensure the bolts on the exhaust Y clamps are not pionting forward (if so cover or turn)... Force the carbon canister pipes around the bottom corner... Ease up into the nose (watch the top pipe inlet does not leaver on the inside of the nose and crack the gel coat!!)Lift the bottom up and out... watch the top connector on the body lip.... assess damage!
On my rad I've reduced the lug size (width of the rad) so it don't scrape the sides on entry / exit.. and have taken a bit off the top pipe connection so it does not go as high and interfear with the induction pipe... Check the bleed screw before it goes back in (just pulled the one in my rad out last week!!)
I'm that experianced now I can get my rad out in 42 mins by myself... I hope you only have to do it once though!!! Not the best of jobs!!!
Replacement is reverse of above... Id put the fans on once in (as Id remove them before trying to get it out).. makes life a lot easier!!)
Edited by TVR Beaver on Tuesday 10th November 15:44
Its out 
I managed to get to both nuts for the alarm siren.
Even with the fan trays off it was difficult to rotate the rad and clear the carbon canister pipes, will certainly reduced the width of the lug bracket before I refit.
Not looking forward to replacing it.
Many thanks again for the help and tips.
Roger
I managed to get to both nuts for the alarm siren.
Even with the fan trays off it was difficult to rotate the rad and clear the carbon canister pipes, will certainly reduced the width of the lug bracket before I refit.
Not looking forward to replacing it.
Many thanks again for the help and tips.
Roger
Edited by RAS on Wednesday 11th November 10:35
Edited by RAS on Wednesday 11th November 10:37
Not sure why you are removing it.. but if it's for a re-core... ensure they test it well before you re-fit...at pressure (2 bar) and temp if they can!!.. you don't want to be taking it out again!!
With my rad it was leaking.. so I took it for a re-core.. on collection they told me they had saved me money and had mended it!.. I re-fit it and in a week it was leaking again!!.. so back out and back to the shop.. they then put a new core in... I collected and re-fit.. and after a week it was weaping on one of the cooling tubes (so was I at this point).... on the third attemp it was right....and has been great since!!
I then removed it for the body lift I did over winter.. and again now for the bleed bush I pulled out!! Know it's a pain but getting everthing out the way is a must!
Cut as many tie wraps as you can on the canister pipes to get you a bit of free play.. they are a struggle.. I can just get my ones past but it's hard.... other option is top remove them from the canister.. take the canister and plate out.. or cut them and re-join (if the latter, ensure you get them the right way back)... Have fun anyway... hope it all works in the end.... Bleading the system and air removal will be your next post then..
With my rad it was leaking.. so I took it for a re-core.. on collection they told me they had saved me money and had mended it!.. I re-fit it and in a week it was leaking again!!.. so back out and back to the shop.. they then put a new core in... I collected and re-fit.. and after a week it was weaping on one of the cooling tubes (so was I at this point).... on the third attemp it was right....and has been great since!!
I then removed it for the body lift I did over winter.. and again now for the bleed bush I pulled out!! Know it's a pain but getting everthing out the way is a must!
Cut as many tie wraps as you can on the canister pipes to get you a bit of free play.. they are a struggle.. I can just get my ones past but it's hard.... other option is top remove them from the canister.. take the canister and plate out.. or cut them and re-join (if the latter, ensure you get them the right way back)... Have fun anyway... hope it all works in the end.... Bleading the system and air removal will be your next post then..
I think the rad has been leaking, its the only explanation I can think of for the red liquid that has been dripping out of the front under tray overnight, no signs of overheating though or liquid coming out when warm / hot.
I took rad in to repair shop this morning, apparently it has already been recored and at some time it has overpressurized and pushed the sides out a little bit, they also confirmed it had been weeping.
They were going to test and repair any leaks, but after the hassle of getting it out I told them to go for the rebuild as I don't want have to pull it out in a few weeks when another joint fails.
Its to late to suggest they move the inlet and outlet pipes but will give them a grilling about pressure testing before I collect it.
I had to bleed the system a couple of times when I replaced the header tank, which had been leaking, but this will be my first total drain, so no doubt there will be further posts regarding air lock!!!
I took rad in to repair shop this morning, apparently it has already been recored and at some time it has overpressurized and pushed the sides out a little bit, they also confirmed it had been weeping.
They were going to test and repair any leaks, but after the hassle of getting it out I told them to go for the rebuild as I don't want have to pull it out in a few weeks when another joint fails.
Its to late to suggest they move the inlet and outlet pipes but will give them a grilling about pressure testing before I collect it.
I had to bleed the system a couple of times when I replaced the header tank, which had been leaking, but this will be my first total drain, so no doubt there will be further posts regarding air lock!!!
Quinny.. your right on moveing the top pipe if you can... I asked them this time if they could do my pipe but as it's brazed in and the core is soldered they didn't want to risk it... I'd love it 2" lower.... worth doing if your re-coring for sure and the end caps are off...
.
The coolant under your car may be from the pressure cap?.. If i overfill my bottle it run's onto the tray and then drip's down... I have changed the pipework under the bottle now so it won't do this any more... but check this also... Can be deceptive!
.
The coolant under your car may be from the pressure cap?.. If i overfill my bottle it run's onto the tray and then drip's down... I have changed the pipework under the bottle now so it won't do this any more... but check this also... Can be deceptive!
Great heads up.
Just taken mine out.
Left fans in place, washer bottle and bracket out.
Alarm siren out and unplugged. Made a 8mm spanner from a flat metal bent to shape to fit through the alarm cable hole.
Lifted out as above.
Will insert clinch nuts to re-fit the alarm bracket.
Will be refurbing radiator as there is some corrosion on the core although I don' think it had been leaking badly.
Just taken mine out.
Left fans in place, washer bottle and bracket out.
Alarm siren out and unplugged. Made a 8mm spanner from a flat metal bent to shape to fit through the alarm cable hole.
Lifted out as above.
Will insert clinch nuts to re-fit the alarm bracket.
Will be refurbing radiator as there is some corrosion on the core although I don' think it had been leaking badly.
Not much help getting siren out but I am going through alot of the underbonnet stuff and replacing nuts and bolts with stainless steel rivnuts and stainless button head machine screws so that for future maintenance bits and pieces like the siren are easily removable. These are not expensive.
On the siren, you life will be made much easier if you take the siren off the bracket to get to those bolts (already advised I think).
Good luck, Pete
On the siren, you life will be made much easier if you take the siren off the bracket to get to those bolts (already advised I think).
Good luck, Pete
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