Griffith radiator fans permanently on - why?
Griffith radiator fans permanently on - why?
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Rack

Original Poster:

5 posts

261 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
Hi everyone!
This is my first posting, unfortunately I have a "cooling" problem on my '99 Griff 500, so any advice would be welcome.
I've had the car for a few years, however recently I've noticed that as soon as I switch on the ignition, both fans start running. They run with the engine on, and continue until I switch the engine off. Now winter is approaching, the temp stays around an indicated 70-75 deg even when warmed up!
I've tried disconnecting what I beleive to be the temperature sensor lead (at front of engine, behind the distributor and near to the oil filler) to check if the sensor is faulty, but this does not make any difference.
I guess there is a short circuit somehere in the elctrics, but can't think of where to start looking. Any idea's anyone?

Ant.

5,254 posts

310 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
Most 500's have dual relays , so if they are both running, chances are it will be a faulty otter switch.

HRG.

72,863 posts

268 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
^^^ Which is located at the base of the swirl pot, the tall ally tube with the large slotted brass plug in the top.

Johno

8,593 posts

311 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
HRG. said:
^^^ Which is located at the base of the swirl pot, the tall ally tube with the large slotted brass plug in the top.
Unless it's located in the radiator below the top hose on the near side . . . later cars.

HRG.

72,863 posts

268 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
Johno said:
HRG. said:
^^^ Which is located at the base of the swirl pot, the tall ally tube with the large slotted brass plug in the top.
Unless it's located in the radiator below the top hose on the near side . . . later cars.
Apart from being in the radiator below the top hose on the near side what have ,,,, biggrin

Johno

8,593 posts

311 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
Quinny said:
All "properly" sorted Griff's have junked it and had the hole blanked off hehehehe
ETA for accuracy . .. .


Johno

8,593 posts

311 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
Quinny said:
Ahhh you've got a Modwise as well ehhehehehe
Nope . . . I want to minimize the amount of wiring in the engine bay, not add a box with wires and dials bit's you've gotta shove in other bits . . . oh no no . . . wink

Loubaruch

1,444 posts

227 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
Probably a faulty Otter switch as mentioned above but worth checking if the previous owner(s) have installed another switch on the dash to bypass the otter switch if it fails open circuit which it usually does. A common mod is to use the switch below the steering column formerly used to switch on the instrument lights.

Edited by Loubaruch on Monday 16th November 21:33

rigga

8,806 posts

230 months

Monday 16th November 2009
quotequote all
Loubaruch said:
Probably a faulty Otter switch as mentioned above but worth checking if the previous owner(s) have installed another switch on the dash to bypass the otter switch if it fails open circuit which it usually does. A common mod is to use the switch below the steering column formerly used to switch on the instrument lights.

Edited by Loubaruch on Monday 16th November 21:33
Yes my guess would be this,knocked mine when getting into the car and eventually realised what was happening....its a common mod to do

ETA..... mind you since you have had the car a few years i would think this would have been noticed by now....... so changed my mind,otter switch.

Edited by rigga on Monday 16th November 22:11

Wildfire

9,948 posts

281 months

Tuesday 17th November 2009
quotequote all
If it's both fans, otter switch. If it's only one, then it could be a stuck relay.

Rack

Original Poster:

5 posts

261 months

Tuesday 17th November 2009
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice.
The "temp sensor" I understood was the same as the "otter switch". I have a late Griff, and it is definately not located on the swirl pot. I looked at Steve Heaths' book, which suggests this is located at the front of the engine on later cars (see photo at end of Chapter on Engine - this shows the temp sensor location).
I'll have a look at the rad tonight for other possible locations of the otter switch. I'm pretty sure I don't have a "hidden" mod-wise switch under the dash!

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Tuesday 17th November 2009
quotequote all
That's it Quinny! get them all to convert to the superior pre-serp manifolds hehe

Whilst you're at it, try getting rid of those damned CAI gauges to boot rofl getting rid of snakey belts, ford boxes and aussie diffs would make life a lot easier as well evillaugh

Johno

8,593 posts

311 months

Tuesday 17th November 2009
quotequote all
Rack

For Clarity . . . .

Your ECU temp sender will be in the same place as Quinny's.

Your Water Temp Gauge sender is located behind the dizzy on a brass extender - different to Quinny's, about 20cm to the right of the highlighted loction.

Your Otter switch will be located in your radiator, below the top hose. Follow the induction pipe down to the front of the car and you will find it facing you with 2 wires coming off it.

HRG.

72,863 posts

268 months

Tuesday 17th November 2009
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Nobody mention the word "rack" please...

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Tuesday 17th November 2009
quotequote all
HRG. said:
Nobody mention the word "rack" please...
You're just upset because he grabbed that nick before you hehe

Maybe you could do a Del and have an incremental suffix? What would it be now 'Rack22' ? evillaugh

Rack

Original Poster:

5 posts

261 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
Quinny, Johno, thanks for the pics and advice - problem solved!
I've looked in the engine bay, and found the otter switch just under the top hose - disconnecting the leads stops the fans, so I guess I'll be getting myself a new otter switch.

Johno

8,593 posts

311 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
Another quick tip . . . an advantage of having the OS in the rad is that you can change it without having to drain down the system.

Be quick, it'll dribble a bit but keep all other caps on etc . . make sure you also buy yourself a deep socket that fit's it as it makes it doddle to change and make sure you wrap the new otter switch threads with a couple of turns of PTFE for a better seal.

spend

12,581 posts

280 months

Wednesday 18th November 2009
quotequote all
...but they work loads better at the bottom on the other side of the rad - mine only comes on when the rad output needs cooling tongue outwink