What's most common? That fuel pump breaks or ...

[panic]

...Or that its electrical connections fail?

As a matter of fact my Griffith engine just stopped... and I don't hear the fuel pump noice anymore when I turn the contact...

So before I buy a new pump I want to be sure it's not an electrical malfunction.

Thanks.

[Colin RedGriff]

Fuel pump relay?

[panic]

Colin RedGriff said:

Fuel pump relay?

I tested them an hour ago, they're fine.

[rigga]

Alarm playing up and the imobiliser kicking in?

[panic]

I've given that job to a professional and he claims everything was ok...anything else to check? Maybe if electricity actually gets to the pump?
BTW, the pump is about 6 years old...I remember the previous two lasted less then this one.

The funny thing is that today when I parked the car in the garage everything was fine but two hours later when I got the car again, the pump didn't give any sign of life.

Could these things happen while you're enjoying lunch and the engine is nice and quite resting in the dark of a safe and dry garage?

Isn't a fuel pump supposed to eventually fail while working?

[rigga]

Pumps like anything can fail at anytime,id next check to actually see if there is voltage at the pump itself,then work backwards to determine the fault if there is none there,if there is then the pump is indeed toast.

[Hoover.]

i had a similar problem..... turned out to be an imobilisor problem, garage had to sort it

[blitzracing]

You could simply put a side light bulb or like(or anything that will measure 12 volts) across the pump connections and see if it flashes on for a couple of seconds on power on. This is controlled by the ECU main relay and fuel pump relay. After the intial burst it will not re energise until the ecu gets pulses from the coil to show the engine is turning.(assuming its not the immobiliser at fault)

[panic]

blitzracing said:

You could simply put a side light bulb or like(or anything that will measure 12 volts) across the pump connections and see if it flashes on for a couple of seconds on power on. This is controlled by the ECU main relay and fuel pump relay. After the intial burst it will not re energise until the ecu gets pulses from the coil to show the engine is turning.(assuming its not the immobiliser at fault)

So, you mean I measure on both end of the pump connections if there is energy...after that I turn the engine and see it again?

If there is pulses it means the energy arrives allright thus the pump is gone...

[330p4]

Remove the connectors from the pump & check as above if there is power there check the push on connectors have not splayed or corroded causing a poor connection.
Ian

[blitzracing]

panic said:

blitzracing said:

You could simply put a side light bulb or like(or anything that will measure 12 volts) across the pump connections and see if it flashes on for a couple of seconds on power on. This is controlled by the ECU main relay and fuel pump relay. After the intial burst it will not re energise until the ecu gets pulses from the coil to show the engine is turning.(assuming its not the immobiliser at fault)

So, you mean I measure on both end of the pump connections if there is energy...after that I turn the engine and see it again?

If there is pulses it means the energy arrives allright thus the pump is gone...

Thats basically it, but it is only pulsed for a second or two to start with, and wont come back on again until the starter turns. If you have a decent size battery charger, you can disconnect the pump and put the battery charger straight across the terminals and see if it spins (it draws quite a few amps) . You can try it both way around, as sometimes if the pumps draw in dirt they jam, and reversing the connections can throw the dirt back out

[Bodmin]

Two items to check if after the above testing you discover there is no power supply to the pump.

First check fuse no.13, which is helpfully listed in the owners manual as the spare but is in fact the fuel circuit fuse ....well it is on my car anyway.

Second, go to the passenger side seat belt & between the top mount & the reel there is an access panel flap which allows access into a cavity in the bodywork. There is a connector block located in the cavity for the wiring running to the rear of the car, including the fuel pump. The connector is a bit awkward to work on but there is usually enough slack in the wiring to be able to clean it. Fried the alarm/immobilser on my car when this connector shorted out

The fuel pump doesn't tend to be a common failure item but be aware that if you are checking the fuel pump supply wire that it will change colour three times before it reaches the fuse board

Bodders

[panic]

Unbelievable...just put the car up to check the fuel pump connectors, touch them just to check if they were jacked and...voila' the pump worked again!!

Griffith gremlins?