Do you have pics of how to reach heater behind a Griff dash?

[panic]

I need to get rid of the heater, matrix and electric vent plus ancillaries...

Don't ask me why...

[panic]

Quinny said:

Why??

Weight saving?

[Ant.]

panic said:

I need to get rid of the heater, matrix and electric vent plus ancillaries...

Don't ask me why...

Panic, remove your small dash,then look up into the top area of the main dash and you see about 8 M8 pins holding it in place. When you have removed the main dash you will see how to remove the heater box.

[steve-V8s]

Tell us what the weight is when you get it out I suspect the water in the heater run will be more than the matrix itself.

A related question however :-

If the heater is removed is it OK to cap off the feed ( or return whichever it is ) on the manifold or does that still need to be connected as a thermostat bypass ? If not then presumably connecting the small pipe that joins the bottom rad hose directly to the manifold would do the job.

[Marty V8]

steve-V8s said:

Tell us what the weight is when you get it out I suspect the water in the heater run will be more than the matrix itself.

A related question however :-

If the heater is removed is it OK to cap off the feed ( or return whichever it is ) on the manifold or does that still need to be connected as a thermostat bypass ? If not then presumably connecting the small pipe that joins the bottom rad hose directly to the manifold would do the job.

Ahh,

Thats something I hadnt considered. I am looking into a method of stopping the flow of hot water through the heater matrix so that I can get cool air into the cabin during the summer.

Does anyone know for certain if this is likely to be a problem?

Apologies for the slight thread hi-jack.

Cheers

Marty

Does

[clive f]

Marty V8 said:

steve-V8s said:

Tell us what the weight is when you get it out I suspect the water in the heater run will be more than the matrix itself.

A related question however :-

If the heater is removed is it OK to cap off the feed ( or return whichever it is ) on the manifold or does that still need to be connected as a thermostat bypass ? If not then presumably connecting the small pipe that joins the bottom rad hose directly to the manifold would do the job.

Ahh,

Thats something I hadnt considered. I am looking into a method of stopping the flow of hot water through the heater matrix so that I can get cool air into the cabin during the summer.

Does anyone know for certain if this is likely to be a problem?

Apologies for the slight thread hi-jack.

Cheers

Marty

Does

I`ve put an inline valve in the inlet heater pipe,and it sits just behind the engine, open for hot closed for cold, works a treat.

[Marty V8]

Clive,

I would be very grateful if you could answer a few q's...

1. Is the inlet pipe the top hose?
2. What valve have you used? Is it the same one as advertised on Clever Trevors website - heater valve part no P0114, price £38.78?
3. Would you be able to post or email me a photo?

Thanks

Regards

Marty

Edited by Marty V8 on Monday 4th January 23:06

[clive f]

Marty V8 said:

Clive,

I would be very grateful if you could answer a few q's...

1. Is the inlet pipe the top hose?
2. What valve have you used? Is it the same one as advertised on Clever Trevors website - heater valve part no P0114, price £38.78?
3. Would you be able to post or email me a photo?

Thanks

Regards

Marty

Edited by Marty V8 on Monday 4th January 23:06

sorry Marty, having a silly moment when I posted, what I`ve done on my car cannot be done on a rv8 as the heater pipes are part of the bypass system to circulate the water before the thermostat opens, my apologies for missleading you, old age ect..

[TVR Beaver]

Where the rubber and metal pipes join at the back of the engine... can't you just loop a pipe from in-feed to return?... This cuts off the rad in the car but maintains flow...
Would be interesting to know the weight of fluid in the heater v the heater itself.... I'd just drain the thing... why remove it?... a good jog and a few KG off after the Christmas pig-out would equate to the weight of the matrix I would have thought??

[steve-V8s]

TVR Beaver said:

Where the rubber and metal pipes join at the back of the engine... can't you just loop a pipe from in-feed to return?... This cuts off the rad in the car but maintains flow...
Would be interesting to know the weight of fluid in the heater v the heater itself.... I'd just drain the thing... why remove it?... a good jog and a few KG off after the Christmas pig-out would equate to the weight of the matrix I would have thought??

Yes that is my thought. At guess the matrix itself is not that heavy but the water probably is. Will be interested to hear when Mr Panic gets his out to hear what it weighs. Was thinking of simply linking the pipe on the manifold to the T off on the lower rad hose. That way the metal pipes fixed to the rocker cover could come off and go in the diet box.

[panic]

steve-V8s said:

....

.... and go in the diet box.

Interesting name...

[Del 203]

TVR Beaver said:

Where the rubber and metal pipes join at the back of the engine... can't you just loop a pipe from in-feed to return?... This cuts off the rad in the car but maintains flow...
Would be interesting to know the weight of fluid in the heater v the heater itself....

I've looped the inlet/outlet before in the summer to try & stop heat soak to the matrix. I'm hoping i wont have to do this now as i've adjusted the valve again & have an "H" section piece of copper pipe to fit (hopefully just after the solid pipes behind the engine )

I'm actually not sure if flow is required as surely you don't have any when the heater is off ?


Just the matrix (empty) weighs 1.5 kgs

[Marty V8]

I was just wanting some way of diverting the water from the heater matrix, and to be able to reinstate it without having to re-plumb the water system every time. Its sometimes nice to have warm air in the cabin on a cool evening blast with the top down.

I had in mind a bypass pipe connected to the inlet and outlet by a 'Y' connector at each end. One 'Y' connector would have a gate valve in it so that I could by-pass the heater matrix as and when required. I also thought that it would be a good idea to be able to control the position of the gate valve from within the car, possibly via a control cable (choke cable?) so that I could switch between water flow through the matrix or not.

I'm just not sure of what to get as a connector - presumably the Clevor Trevor replacement heater valve would do the trick at one end, and at the other end some proprietary, or fabricated pipe.

Cheers

Marty

[David Beer]

I set my valve many times, the only way to stop the valve slowly opening itself was to switch the motor supply. Use one of the spare switches on the control panel, press in when you want to set the temp, then it can't creep open.

[Marty V8]

David Beer said:

I set my valve many times, the only way to stop the valve slowly opening itself was to switch the motor supply. Use one of the spare switches on the control panel, press in when you want to set the temp, then it can't creep open.

Thats interesting.

Ive already got one of the switches on the rotary dials wired up as a manual fan override, but I'm afraid I cant picture how this would be wired. Can you explain it a bit more to me, mr Thicky please?

Would you also need to know where the fully closed position of the valve would be? I have heard that some of them are marked to show where the closd position is, but this doesnt seem to be marked on my heater control valve.

Cheers

Marty

[Del 203]

Marty V8 said:

Would you also need to know where the fully closed position of the valve would be? I have heard that some of them are marked to show where the closd position is, but this doesnt seem to be marked on my heater control valve.

Cheers

Marty

Clamp the pipes, take the valve off & blow through it, then mark the closed postion.

A 180 deg turn of the valve might give a better seal As i've found out

[David Beer]

Marty V8 said:

David Beer said:

I set my valve many times, the only way to stop the valve slowly opening itself was to switch the motor supply. Use one of the spare switches on the control panel, press in when you want to set the temp, then it can't creep open.

You put A relay in the supply to the motor, when energised it will alow the motor to move as normal. I think it is something to do with the temp controller going loopie as the dash warms up and there is no compensation in the controller. Works for me a treat, took a while to get to the bottom of it. If you need diagrams etc, feel free to email me.

Thats interesting.

Ive already got one of the switches on the rotary dials wired up as a manual fan override, but I'm afraid I cant picture how this would be wired. Can you explain it a bit more to me, mr Thicky please?

Would you also need to know where the fully closed position of the valve would be? I have heard that some of them are marked to show where the closd position is, but this doesnt seem to be marked on my heater control valve.

Cheers

Marty