Desireable Mods?
Discussion
Right I have decided the time is right to return to the TVR fold and am looking for my 4th Griff, this one will be a keeper. I am starting to think about a few sensible mods to improve the car, I don't at this stage want to go down the road of modifying the engine I just want to improve some of the bad points on the car that I can recall from previous ownership. I want to improve the handling and was thinking about some Racing Reds togther with a proper set up, decent lights, possible front brake upgrade and some mods to aid cooling, and general reliability.
What would you recomend? I may use the car on track very occasionally, but the car will mainly be used for weekend hooning, trips away etc.
Budget wise I would be looking to spend around £2k.
Cheers
What would you recomend? I may use the car on track very occasionally, but the car will mainly be used for weekend hooning, trips away etc.
Budget wise I would be looking to spend around £2k.
Cheers
In 10 years of Griff ownership and in descending order, I would consider the following (assuming a solid chassis):
1. Uprated dampers & springs - I've tried a few and found Nitron well worth the extra
2. New bushes - get the heat shielded front wishbone versions if you want them to last
3. A *proper* geometry setup - don't skip this one!
4. ACT smooth bore inlet kit - cheap, home fit and effective
5. Braided steel brake hoses - vastly improved the feel and power of my std brakes
6. Camshaft - it's almost certainly worn and there are better profiles available today
7. Wheels - larger modern rims allow better rubber (esp. on the front) and lower unsprung mass. SP12 are nice but 17" Compomotive/Team Dynamics are an equivalent quality at much lower cost - do not compromise on the offset
If you try to get as many of these already done on the car you choose you will find that the extra you pay on the sale price is vastly less than it will cost you to do individually.
df
ETA that on both my cars with the cooling system in good order there should be no problem. A few times I've sat in crawling traffic for 2 hours at 37ºc without issue. Same story with brakes - I could lock my standard brakes with a good quality pad from almost any speed if I wished.
1. Uprated dampers & springs - I've tried a few and found Nitron well worth the extra
2. New bushes - get the heat shielded front wishbone versions if you want them to last
3. A *proper* geometry setup - don't skip this one!
4. ACT smooth bore inlet kit - cheap, home fit and effective
5. Braided steel brake hoses - vastly improved the feel and power of my std brakes
6. Camshaft - it's almost certainly worn and there are better profiles available today
7. Wheels - larger modern rims allow better rubber (esp. on the front) and lower unsprung mass. SP12 are nice but 17" Compomotive/Team Dynamics are an equivalent quality at much lower cost - do not compromise on the offset
If you try to get as many of these already done on the car you choose you will find that the extra you pay on the sale price is vastly less than it will cost you to do individually.
df
ETA that on both my cars with the cooling system in good order there should be no problem. A few times I've sat in crawling traffic for 2 hours at 37ºc without issue. Same story with brakes - I could lock my standard brakes with a good quality pad from almost any speed if I wished.
Edited by dumbfunk on Sunday 17th January 17:29
I've got Gaz Nickels on mine and they work a treat (although I do drive like a bit of a grandad). I've also got 73mm inlet plenum, ACT 45mm carbon trumpet base, 45mm inlet manifold, ACT silicon hose kit, stainless steel water pipe kit and induction kit and filter. The engine runs very nicely with all these goodies and has the added bonus of making the engine bay look much better. You can never have too many coloured pipes.
SonicHedgeHog said:
I've got Gaz Nickels on mine and they work a treat (although I do drive like a bit of a grandad). I've also got 73mm inlet plenum, ACT 45mm carbon trumpet base, 45mm inlet manifold, ACT silicon hose kit, stainless steel water pipe kit and induction kit and filter. The engine runs very nicely with all these goodies and has the added bonus of making the engine bay look much better. You can never have too many coloured pipes.
Sounds like a very impressive shinny engine bay, have you got any pics?I invested in a set of Gaz Gold Professionals last year, along with a full geo setup and 4 wheel alignment. Made a world of difference to the way the car handled.
Other than that it's all pretty minor mods wise for me so far. ACT induction hoses along with their silicon hose kit. Uprated adjustable fuel pressure regulator, magnecors etc.
The spring is going to bring either a TF500 upgrade from Torqueflow or the ACT Tornado 5 kit with carbon trumpets, larger plenum and Bosch AFM, along with a Mark Adams Tornado chip.
The ACT induction and fuel pressure regulator alone made quite a difference to before and after results on last years Growl RR (eventually !! ).
On the practical side of things I would look at the hot start kit and 2 stage fan, fan over ride switch for piece of mind (I am paranoid mind you).
Brakes wise I can't really comment, I have the standard setup an mine and they are ample for the moment (I havn't tracked the car yet mind you) maybe I'll look into upgrading them after seeing how much difference the TF500 or Tornado kit makes.
Other than that it's all pretty minor mods wise for me so far. ACT induction hoses along with their silicon hose kit. Uprated adjustable fuel pressure regulator, magnecors etc.
The spring is going to bring either a TF500 upgrade from Torqueflow or the ACT Tornado 5 kit with carbon trumpets, larger plenum and Bosch AFM, along with a Mark Adams Tornado chip.
The ACT induction and fuel pressure regulator alone made quite a difference to before and after results on last years Growl RR (eventually !! ).
On the practical side of things I would look at the hot start kit and 2 stage fan, fan over ride switch for piece of mind (I am paranoid mind you).
Brakes wise I can't really comment, I have the standard setup an mine and they are ample for the moment (I havn't tracked the car yet mind you) maybe I'll look into upgrading them after seeing how much difference the TF500 or Tornado kit makes.
Cheers for the advice thus far, buying the dampers is I think the most confusing choice given the mulitude of opinions on here and elsewhere and the choice available. In an ideal world a back to back assessment of the usual suspects Gaz, Nitron and maybe Ohlins would be a nice way to choose but that is not going to happen. I spoke to one well regarded Indy about this and he reckoned that for the money Racing Reds offered the best compromise in terms of price and ability for mainly road and occasional track use. Anyone on here got these fitted and care to comment on this?
Edited by T5GRF on Tuesday 19th January 16:19
I've got Gaz Golds and I'm very pleased with them. What I would say is that any of the well know brands are going to be considerably better than the saggy old standard ones. If you have limited budget I would go for something in this price range and then your cash will go further. Nitrons and Ohlins will be better but then they should be, they cost a lot more.
Gaz Golds and I'm sure Racing Reds will give a considerable improvement.
Gaz Golds and I'm sure Racing Reds will give a considerable improvement.
)
There's lot's of people who wax lyrical about their Nitrons on here who I would not be surprised have not done what Nitron advise, which is to have them serviced after 2yrs.
It makes a significant difference to their performance, mine are due their second service next winter and they'll be there without question, at which point I shall change springs as well.
You have got to factor in this cost for any of the dampers you purchase.
My experience of Gaz was not good on my old S. I've not driven on Ohlin's, but I don't believe the cost makes them really one to consider strongly unless you're going for 3 ways and using the car on the track a lot. Intrax get a good write up, but I've not used them.
It's always got to be considered that you're taking off a compromise damper set up which is very tired and then chucking on brand new ones which seem like night and day. I'd be more interested in the comments of those who have replaced dampers and had them on their car for a few years and what their view is after a more prolonged period.
I also keep all of my dampers in bag's to protect them and it makes a significant difference after a few years keeping the road crud off the threads and adjusters.
I would say buy as expensive as you can.
It makes a significant difference to their performance, mine are due their second service next winter and they'll be there without question, at which point I shall change springs as well.
You have got to factor in this cost for any of the dampers you purchase.
My experience of Gaz was not good on my old S. I've not driven on Ohlin's, but I don't believe the cost makes them really one to consider strongly unless you're going for 3 ways and using the car on the track a lot. Intrax get a good write up, but I've not used them.
It's always got to be considered that you're taking off a compromise damper set up which is very tired and then chucking on brand new ones which seem like night and day. I'd be more interested in the comments of those who have replaced dampers and had them on their car for a few years and what their view is after a more prolonged period.
I also keep all of my dampers in bag's to protect them and it makes a significant difference after a few years keeping the road crud off the threads and adjusters.
I would say buy as expensive as you can.
Johno said:
I would say buy as expensive as you can.
By their very nature of being lightweight, short wheelbase cars on relatively wide rubber, these cars are very sensitive to dmping control. The better the component quality (big diameter monotube dampers, low unsprung weight, low friction), the more 'resolution'(for lack of a better word) the damping has even over very small movements, which will result in far more consistent grip levels as well as noticeably better long-distance comfort. A well set up high-end suspension kit takes a lot of turbulence out of the car's road behaviour, making it easier for the driver to feel the important feedback that the car is trying to give you in difficult road conditions.Johno said:
There's lot's of people who wax lyrical about their Nitrons on here who I would not be surprised have not done what Nitron advise, which is to have them serviced after 2yrs.
It makes a significant difference to their performance, mine are due their second service next winter and they'll be there without question, at which point I shall change springs as well.
You have got to factor in this cost for any of the dampers you purchase.
My experience of Gaz was not good on my old S. I've not driven on Ohlin's, but I don't believe the cost makes them really one to consider strongly unless you're going for 3 ways and using the car on the track a lot. Intrax get a good write up, but I've not used them.
It's always got to be considered that you're taking off a compromise damper set up which is very tired and then chucking on brand new ones which seem like night and day. I'd be more interested in the comments of those who have replaced dampers and had them on their car for a few years and what their view is after a more prolonged period.
I also keep all of my dampers in bag's to protect them and it makes a significant difference after a few years keeping the road crud off the threads and adjusters.
I would say buy as expensive as you can.
what do they charge for a service ?, where did you get your damper bags from ?It makes a significant difference to their performance, mine are due their second service next winter and they'll be there without question, at which point I shall change springs as well.
You have got to factor in this cost for any of the dampers you purchase.
My experience of Gaz was not good on my old S. I've not driven on Ohlin's, but I don't believe the cost makes them really one to consider strongly unless you're going for 3 ways and using the car on the track a lot. Intrax get a good write up, but I've not used them.
It's always got to be considered that you're taking off a compromise damper set up which is very tired and then chucking on brand new ones which seem like night and day. I'd be more interested in the comments of those who have replaced dampers and had them on their car for a few years and what their view is after a more prolonged period.
I also keep all of my dampers in bag's to protect them and it makes a significant difference after a few years keeping the road crud off the threads and adjusters.
I would say buy as expensive as you can.
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