New wiring loom
Discussion
Hi,
I was hoping sombody might be able to point me in the right direction. I need a new wiring loom for my Griffith (courtesy of suffering a small engine fire). I have checked around and it seems you can get a new one from a well know TVR dealer for £500, or I might be able to repair mine if I could find where to get the right connectors etc from. However, I have heard that a Land Rover wiring loom form the 3.9 or 4.2 might be able to help me, evem if just as a donor loom.
Anyone have any knowledge that they can share?
Thanks for any help you can give :-)
I was hoping sombody might be able to point me in the right direction. I need a new wiring loom for my Griffith (courtesy of suffering a small engine fire). I have checked around and it seems you can get a new one from a well know TVR dealer for £500, or I might be able to repair mine if I could find where to get the right connectors etc from. However, I have heard that a Land Rover wiring loom form the 3.9 or 4.2 might be able to help me, evem if just as a donor loom.
Anyone have any knowledge that they can share?
Thanks for any help you can give :-)
Hi,
Thanks for the speedy reply! I have just been out having a really good look. Loom looks much worse than I at first thought. Lots of the wires going down one side of the engine to the injectors etc are all completly destroed. Other wires that go on to other ancillaries (starter, sensors etc) also pass through this area and have become damaged. It looks a daunting task to repair...
Thanks for the speedy reply! I have just been out having a really good look. Loom looks much worse than I at first thought. Lots of the wires going down one side of the engine to the injectors etc are all completly destroed. Other wires that go on to other ancillaries (starter, sensors etc) also pass through this area and have become damaged. It looks a daunting task to repair...
yes, it was the dreaded fuel lines!!
If I could use a landy one and just remove the parts that I don't need that would be great. I don't suppose you could give me some examples of which models I might consider?? I'll be honest I don't really know my land rover models and so don't know which ones to keep an eye on for on ebay.
If I could use a landy one and just remove the parts that I don't need that would be great. I don't suppose you could give me some examples of which models I might consider?? I'll be honest I don't really know my land rover models and so don't know which ones to keep an eye on for on ebay.
It'll cost less than £150 in parts to make your own with connectors joining to the ecu loom in the car (there's rather too much of it bunched up anyway).
The non efi loom parts that run over the engine vary depending on model year, but none are particularly complicated.
You have quite a job getting the complete loom threaded through the dash - that would be the deciding factor for me in that it I'd find it easier to make up a new engine bay part and join with several small connector plugs to the Ecu loom.
The non efi loom parts that run over the engine vary depending on model year, but none are particularly complicated.
You have quite a job getting the complete loom threaded through the dash - that would be the deciding factor for me in that it I'd find it easier to make up a new engine bay part and join with several small connector plugs to the Ecu loom.
In a related way....
When I said I am part way removing the loom, so far I have disconnected everything in the engine bay.
The only practical way I could see of getting to the main grommet, was by removing the flexible air pipe that runs from left to right hand (connected to the heater matrix). I already had the plenum/intake manifold off to undergo the Taraka mods at TVR Power - which I think would also be necessary to remove/replace the loom.
Next I have to pull it through the interior of the car. I am assuming it is a dash & centre console out job to get it through?
Any tips? (including pointing out that I may be doing this the hard way!!!!)
When I said I am part way removing the loom, so far I have disconnected everything in the engine bay.
The only practical way I could see of getting to the main grommet, was by removing the flexible air pipe that runs from left to right hand (connected to the heater matrix). I already had the plenum/intake manifold off to undergo the Taraka mods at TVR Power - which I think would also be necessary to remove/replace the loom.
Next I have to pull it through the interior of the car. I am assuming it is a dash & centre console out job to get it through?
Any tips? (including pointing out that I may be doing this the hard way!!!!)
I don't know if this is of any value - I put this together from my pre cat V8S loom, so no lambda cabling etc if you have a cat model but might be of some use as a starting point, and maybe even the same as early pre cats.
http://tvrsseries.com/drawings/tvrv8wiring.jpg
Injector etc connectors available here
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
Just don't ask me which you need to order - probably worth giving them a ring.
http://tvrsseries.com/drawings/tvrv8wiring.jpg
Injector etc connectors available here
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinest...
Just don't ask me which you need to order - probably worth giving them a ring.
Thanks all for your contributions / info!
Jeboa,
Will drop you a PM as am interested in the wiring loom and not in a terrible hurry, so there should be plenty of time for you to finish removing it.
Regarding removal: Like you, I removed the Plenum and intake. I also removed the heater matrix hoses (because mine were damaged) but don’t think this is absolutely necessary. Inside the car I took the dash instrument panel out (but left it connected) and the glovebox. Through these two access routes, I had enough room to reach in and remove the connection from the ECU etc and feed everything through the bulk head.
Hope this helps!
Jeboa,
Will drop you a PM as am interested in the wiring loom and not in a terrible hurry, so there should be plenty of time for you to finish removing it.
Regarding removal: Like you, I removed the Plenum and intake. I also removed the heater matrix hoses (because mine were damaged) but don’t think this is absolutely necessary. Inside the car I took the dash instrument panel out (but left it connected) and the glovebox. Through these two access routes, I had enough room to reach in and remove the connection from the ECU etc and feed everything through the bulk head.
Hope this helps!
One more question - I'm doing some engine work and want to tidy the loom up a bit. What's the best covering to use? I can replace with new ribbed plastic stuff but would prefer something a little nicer to look at. I considered stainless braiding but it would mean removing all the plugs to get it on.
Any (sensible) suggestions?
Any (sensible) suggestions?
Hi,
I followed the link upplied by Barkychoc above and there are a few different options of sleeving that looks like it can be added with plugs in place. Not sure if they look any better than the standard stuff.
BTW, most plugs (for example the fuel injector plugs) can be disassembled, so I suppose with a bit of persevernece you might be able to fit something like SS braiding. However SS is very hard and I have seen situations where it has rubbed against hoses, engine components etc and caused damage.
Just my thoughts...
I followed the link upplied by Barkychoc above and there are a few different options of sleeving that looks like it can be added with plugs in place. Not sure if they look any better than the standard stuff.
BTW, most plugs (for example the fuel injector plugs) can be disassembled, so I suppose with a bit of persevernece you might be able to fit something like SS braiding. However SS is very hard and I have seen situations where it has rubbed against hoses, engine components etc and caused damage.
Just my thoughts...
jeboa said:
In a related way....
When I said I am part way removing the loom, so far I have disconnected everything in the engine bay.
The only practical way I could see of getting to the main grommet, was by removing the flexible air pipe that runs from left to right hand (connected to the heater matrix). I already had the plenum/intake manifold off to undergo the Taraka mods at TVR Power - which I think would also be necessary to remove/replace the loom.
Next I have to pull it through the interior of the car. I am assuming it is a dash & centre console out job to get it through?
Any tips? (including pointing out that I may be doing this the hard way!!!!)
I think you might have confused a fair few Grifters, this one of the areas where the cars can be quite a bit different. Most of them have the loom go into the footwell just under the wiper motor, yours is a lot more fiddly unfortunately. TBH I've only seen a couple of early Griffs with that arrangement & still wonder if that really is what you are describing (loom goes in middle of bulkhead over transmission not into the passenger footwell under manifolds)?When I said I am part way removing the loom, so far I have disconnected everything in the engine bay.
The only practical way I could see of getting to the main grommet, was by removing the flexible air pipe that runs from left to right hand (connected to the heater matrix). I already had the plenum/intake manifold off to undergo the Taraka mods at TVR Power - which I think would also be necessary to remove/replace the loom.
Next I have to pull it through the interior of the car. I am assuming it is a dash & centre console out job to get it through?
Any tips? (including pointing out that I may be doing this the hard way!!!!)
If so it may be worth studying later Griffs and cutting a hole to replicate their installation which is a lot easier IMHO, and just using the existing central bulkhead hole for the car wiring (alt, gauges...)
spend said:
Look at VWP things like their plastic spiral or fabric split wraps, both are nice as you can get into them if you need to add / repair anything. Using the 2 together works really well.
I use these:
33440
TW13
TW16
SB6B
SB12B
TW8
The split wrap looks good. What do you use the spiral wrap for?I use these:
33440
TW13
TW16
SB6B
SB12B
TW8
Holding wires together as I assemble the looms (after you've sampled tangled spaghetti all over the loft it becomes clear 
)
Then wound over the top of the split wrap when completed makes it look really neat and gives all the mechanical protection you need.
Don't forget the heat insulation for all the bits that get exposed near the cats / manifolds + I do all the timer plug branches in it as it seals nicely into the boots.
)Then wound over the top of the split wrap when completed makes it look really neat and gives all the mechanical protection you need.
Don't forget the heat insulation for all the bits that get exposed near the cats / manifolds + I do all the timer plug branches in it as it seals nicely into the boots.
Just popped in from the dark side (Chimaera) and spotted this thread.
Thses guys did and still do a lot of the looms albeit for the early TVR though in conversation they will take your old loom or part of and construct a new one.
Autosparks
Thses guys did and still do a lot of the looms albeit for the early TVR though in conversation they will take your old loom or part of and construct a new one.
Autosparks
Managed to get the loom out today - not the easiest job!
Spend - apologies if I may have confused people. Unfortunately for me, my car is one of the types where both looms go through a central grommet above the transmission.
I can see why TVR changed this, as it's a complete nightmare to work around.
Spend - apologies if I may have confused people. Unfortunately for me, my car is one of the types where both looms go through a central grommet above the transmission.
I can see why TVR changed this, as it's a complete nightmare to work around.
jeboa said:
Managed to get the loom out today - not the easiest job!
Spend - apologies if I may have confused people. Unfortunately for me, my car is one of the types where both looms go through a central grommet above the transmission.
I can see why TVR changed this, as it's a complete nightmare to work around.
Yes, swapping out the loom on a Chim must be @10x as much work as on the Griff. It's just that not many folks appreciate the difference Spend - apologies if I may have confused people. Unfortunately for me, my car is one of the types where both looms go through a central grommet above the transmission.
I can see why TVR changed this, as it's a complete nightmare to work around.
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