Leaking Sump Gasket
Discussion
I have the car up on ramps and blocks doing some service and maintanence and have noticed the sump gasket is leaking. Its due an oil change and filter so I will change the sump gasket at the same time. Looking at it there is plenty of sealant around the joint - what stuff is used with the sump gasket please?
cheers
Ian
cheers
Ian
If you're staying with cork then beware the different qualities... world of difference between the nice dense thick ones that V8D do and the nasty pared down granular ones that look like they're stamped out of old bathroom floor tiles. They just squish out the sides IME.
Not keen on silicone in that application either but if you must, just the slightest smear. I'd dress with cork with Wellseal in preference but it can be a bugger to get apart later.
The rubber chappie looks the right idea assuming quality is ok but seems pricey to me.
Not keen on silicone in that application either but if you must, just the slightest smear. I'd dress with cork with Wellseal in preference but it can be a bugger to get apart later.
The rubber chappie looks the right idea assuming quality is ok but seems pricey to me.
Strange how these cork gaskets leak - not exactly immersed in oil are they - but the sloshing about contact of oil and vibration/ heat, quickly cause them to.
I used Blue hylomar on mine, sort of a sandwich - but because the cork gasket I used was of the s
te quality, (a cork gasket is a cork gasket to me), it was weeping again within about 500 miles – I know I was under the bloody thing enough. The blue hylomar ended up in the sump pan and in the strainer pickup - so I wouldn’t recommend!
I used Blue hylomar on mine, sort of a sandwich - but because the cork gasket I used was of the s
te quality, (a cork gasket is a cork gasket to me), it was weeping again within about 500 miles – I know I was under the bloody thing enough. The blue hylomar ended up in the sump pan and in the strainer pickup - so I wouldn’t recommend!The essential with gasket replacement is ensuring boths faces are debris-free.
I am not adverse to using Hermatite or similar, non-setting stuff, in addition to cork gaskets. It has the additional benefit of stopping the gasket sticking to the metal faces so making replacement a bit of an ordeal. Further, it can hold the gasket in place whilst presenting one bit to the other, although it doesn't always work. There are other ways - see the next upgrade to The RV8 Resource for a little trick my father taught me.
The essential is to keep any silcon as thin as you can. Just a smear. It's purpose is to fill microscopic gaps, not gaping holes. If you put too much on it can actually weaken the joint.
I know it is a bit naff but the one thing that puts me off Hermatite is the fact that it will show. But for the sump this is not much of a problem.
But opinions vary on whether Hermatite is preferable or not. My father used it on his pre-unit Triumph 650 and kept it oil-tight. If it can manage that then they should have used it on the Titanic.
I retighten the sump bolts every year, slackening them off and then retightening them to the correct torque. This year the damn thing started to leak. It must have been right after the service given the amount of oil mist covering the underside of the car. So perhaps I won't do that in the future.
I am not adverse to using Hermatite or similar, non-setting stuff, in addition to cork gaskets. It has the additional benefit of stopping the gasket sticking to the metal faces so making replacement a bit of an ordeal. Further, it can hold the gasket in place whilst presenting one bit to the other, although it doesn't always work. There are other ways - see the next upgrade to The RV8 Resource for a little trick my father taught me.
The essential is to keep any silcon as thin as you can. Just a smear. It's purpose is to fill microscopic gaps, not gaping holes. If you put too much on it can actually weaken the joint.
I know it is a bit naff but the one thing that puts me off Hermatite is the fact that it will show. But for the sump this is not much of a problem.
But opinions vary on whether Hermatite is preferable or not. My father used it on his pre-unit Triumph 650 and kept it oil-tight. If it can manage that then they should have used it on the Titanic.
I retighten the sump bolts every year, slackening them off and then retightening them to the correct torque. This year the damn thing started to leak. It must have been right after the service given the amount of oil mist covering the underside of the car. So perhaps I won't do that in the future.
The best i have found for sump sealant is "Volkswagen Oil Pan Sealant" from any vw parts department. The stuff is white and will not separate i have removed the sump twice since using and have not had a single drop leak in 6000 miles and most importantly not 1 bit in the pick up, When silicon has been used you would usually find the odd bit in the strainer the part number is d176 404 a2 not the cheapest at 13.60 + vat !! but its cost price is 7.45 + Vat so haggle.
Mark
Mark
marks3drtaz said:
The best i have found for sump sealant is "Volkswagen Oil Pan Sealant" from any vw parts department. The stuff is white and will not separate i have removed the sump twice since using and have not had a single drop leak in 6000 miles and most importantly not 1 bit in the pick up, When silicon has been used you would usually find the odd bit in the strainer the part number is d176 404 a2 not the cheapest at 13.60 + vat !! but its cost price is 7.45 + Vat so haggle.
Mark
Search hylosil its only a couple of quid, what LR originally used and advise I believe. Its just lots of folks have been using inappropriate sealants - there are just 1000's of them all with different properties...Mark
have it blasted and powder coated.ray_von said:
spend said:
Yup the rubber is new and demands that someone gets one to try 
We really need to see if it puts up with the heat and whether it is re-usable.. - it is fairly expensive ?
Which rubber one?We really need to see if it puts up with the heat and whether it is re-usable.. - it is fairly expensive ?
Quinny posted the link in the very first reply to the thread. It does however appear to be just a cut sheet, rather than the fancy lipped design like the later P38 alloy sump design?
Quinny said:
Del 203 said:
No padding on the axle stand 
Thats cos I haven't got to cleaning and painting that bit yet
Where I've completed the back end... The padding is permanently fixed to the chassis, 3 walls ceiling and floor.... The same will be happening at the front, when I get to it
Then I just need my straight-jacket
It always helps if you are just a little bit mad
spend said:
ray_von said:
spend said:
Yup the rubber is new and demands that someone gets one to try
We really need to see if it puts up with the heat and whether it is re-usable.. - it is fairly expensive ?
Which rubber one?We really need to see if it puts up with the heat and whether it is re-usable.. - it is fairly expensive ?
Quinny posted the link in the very first reply to the thread. It does however appear to be just a cut sheet, rather than the fancy lipped design like the later P38 alloy sump design?
It's like a 'walkerite' material and it works exactly like a lot of other gaskets, not Quinnys obviously. i.e not very well.I have to be careful Ray, declaring a vested interest, I have been investigating having a proper moulded rubber gasket churned out by nubile cantonese maidens. - a better designed rocker cover gasket might not go amiss either (I don't think many folks will grind their covers to suit the gasket like I do - and the lip still faces the wrong way!)
spend said:
I have to be careful Ray, declaring a vested interest, I have been investigating having a proper moulded rubber gasket churned out by nubile cantonese maidens. - a better designed rocker cover gasket might not go amiss either (I don't think many folks will grind their covers to suit the gasket like I do - and the lip still faces the wrong way!)
That would be good Dave, although my most successful attempt was with the closed cell foam you once suggested. That stuff at least lasted longer than when a well respected engine builder did it Anyway I shall not be suffering anymore leaky sumps for a while
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