Can't shut my boot!
Discussion
I have a modwise remote boot kit the magnetic sensing switch of which came apart from its soldering on removal of my number plate. (The kit had been fitted with the switch glued to the back of reg. plate). Having re-assembled the switch neither this, nor the dashboard button (with ignition turned on!)will activate the boot solenoid which is stuck in the open position, not allowing the boot to latch.
Could anybody here please advise me the likely cause of this problem as I am a bit of a do-it-yourself numpty (especially when it comes to electrics).
I should be very grateful. I'm desperate to use the car this week-end as it seems there might be some dry weather around!
Cheers
Nigel
Could anybody here please advise me the likely cause of this problem as I am a bit of a do-it-yourself numpty (especially when it comes to electrics).
I should be very grateful. I'm desperate to use the car this week-end as it seems there might be some dry weather around!
Cheers
Nigel
Yes it is.
Have you got a copy of the bible or your handbook? You'll need one or the other to identify the fuse because there are quite a few fuseboard layouts.
If you struggle with getting your hands on either of them, find the fuse controlling the horn and let us know where it is, that seems to be the one TVR moved around most so will give us a clue which fuseboard layout you have.
Have you got a copy of the bible or your handbook? You'll need one or the other to identify the fuse because there are quite a few fuseboard layouts.
If you struggle with getting your hands on either of them, find the fuse controlling the horn and let us know where it is, that seems to be the one TVR moved around most so will give us a clue which fuseboard layout you have.
Having the same problem here on my 98R, mine popped in a big way and blew the no. 9 fuse for the dash ign feed and put some strain on the 80a fuse for the main ign line, not quite blowing it but heating it up nicely.
After replacing those two fuses I was still left with no boot operation so it looks like replacing the solenoid is the way to go.
After replacing those two fuses I was still left with no boot operation so it looks like replacing the solenoid is the way to go.
Make sure your boot push button is not locking under the dash panel otherwise your boot motor will burn out again.
It is frequently called a solonoid but is actually a 12 volt motor driving through some gears that actuates the lock.
After 2 burn outs I knocked up a very simple circuit that protects the boot motor so even if the button gets latched the motor will not overheat, details:
http://bertram-hill.co.uk/grif.aspx
It is frequently called a solonoid but is actually a 12 volt motor driving through some gears that actuates the lock.
After 2 burn outs I knocked up a very simple circuit that protects the boot motor so even if the button gets latched the motor will not overheat, details:
http://bertram-hill.co.uk/grif.aspx
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