Geometry Settings Griffith 500
Discussion
Morning.
I am going to take my car to have the geometry setup up this month. I will be taking it to the same place I have taken all my cars in the past as they have a Hunter Pro-Align
http://www.super-tyres.co.uk/supertyresfourwh.html
Where can I find the correct geometry settings for a Griff 500 Serp?
I am going to take my car to have the geometry setup up this month. I will be taking it to the same place I have taken all my cars in the past as they have a Hunter Pro-Align
http://www.super-tyres.co.uk/supertyresfourwh.html
Where can I find the correct geometry settings for a Griff 500 Serp?
yellowgriff said:
Ive the same Hunter system they dont have the setting on there for TVRs..If the garage ring them they will fax or Email over the settings but they are for a 1993 car....
Are the settings different for a 1999 Giffith 500 compared to a 1993 Griffith (I assume pre-cat)?There are some geometry settings in this thread http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Thanks for that Andrew, I must have missed that thread when i searched earlier.
spend said:
Set the ride height first, if you have adjustable dampers. The rear is adjustable, but advisable to make sure the rear track adjusters are freed off (on the front inner of the lower wishbone). They aren't expensive if you cant undo them - fairly common to be seized up, should be checked each service hoh hum.... You will also need some wedges to set the camber accurately, just tap them down gently to set (you'll see what I mean).
You can get the geo set very accurately with patience, keep bouncing and rolling the car though.
What is the general opinion on geo setup do you think it will be OK to take the car to a specialist alignment centre with a Hunter System with the above info or to a TVR specialist?You can get the geo set very accurately with patience, keep bouncing and rolling the car though.
Neill Anderson Once said:
Front & rear camber 0.75 to 1.25deg negative, as equal as possible side to side
Front tracking (toe) 10 to 20 minutes TOTAL ACROSS AXLE (5 to 10 minutes each wheel)
Rear tracking (toe) 4 to 6 minutes EACH WHEEL (as equal as possible side to side)
Front castor 4.75 to 5.25deg Positive (more important that each side is within 0.5deg of the other)
NOTE: As the front and rear wheel alignment are adjustable independently, but only the front wheels are connected to each other (by the rack) it is important that the pair of rear wheels are aligned to the nominal centreline of the car and not just to each other. The castor is not usually adjusted, the spacer at the upper ball joint is simply to ensure adequate clearance at the full extents of negative camber adjustment.
There are other settings that came out of TVR(common bickering ground!), and you can tweak them all to your personal preferences. These are fine as a guideline, starting point, default - however you wish to use them.. IMHOFront tracking (toe) 10 to 20 minutes TOTAL ACROSS AXLE (5 to 10 minutes each wheel)
Rear tracking (toe) 4 to 6 minutes EACH WHEEL (as equal as possible side to side)
Front castor 4.75 to 5.25deg Positive (more important that each side is within 0.5deg of the other)
NOTE: As the front and rear wheel alignment are adjustable independently, but only the front wheels are connected to each other (by the rack) it is important that the pair of rear wheels are aligned to the nominal centreline of the car and not just to each other. The castor is not usually adjusted, the spacer at the upper ball joint is simply to ensure adequate clearance at the full extents of negative camber adjustment.
You can do a good job on any 4 wheel alignment. Rather than struggle on the machine, make sure everything is freed off and slipped up first. A couple of wedges to adjust the camber on std wishbones makes it an awful lot easier (bit of clamping on the upper wishbone and tap the wedge down to get the camber - then nip up, shaking the wheel around and tightening is very imprecise 
). It will cost a lot less than a RR and give you more benefit even though it probably isn't as fashionable 
As I said before if you need more than those settings give you, then you should be well able to define your own
I can't stress enough though that ride height and loading affects the static geometry setting. So at your average loading set the wishbones as level as possible if you have adjustable dampers, and set the geo with the loading that the wishbones are set at.
). It will cost a lot less than a RR and give you more benefit even though it probably isn't as fashionable As I said before if you need more than those settings give you, then you should be well able to define your own
I can't stress enough though that ride height and loading affects the static geometry setting. So at your average loading set the wishbones as level as possible if you have adjustable dampers, and set the geo with the loading that the wishbones are set at.spend said:
You can do a good job on any 4 wheel alignment. Rather than struggle on the machine, make sure everything is freed off and slipped up first. A couple of wedges to adjust the camber on std wishbones makes it an awful lot easier (bit of clamping on the upper wishbone and tap the wedge down to get the camber - then nip up, shaking the wheel around and tightening is very imprecise ). It will cost a lot less than a RR and give you more benefit even though it probably isn't as fashionable
As I said before if you need more than those settings give you, then you should be well able to define your own I can't stress enough though that ride height and loading affects the static geometry setting. So at your average loading set the wishbones as level as possible if you have adjustable dampers, and set the geo with the loading that the wishbones are set at.
Many thanks for the detailed response Dave - much appreciated.). It will cost a lot less than a RR and give you more benefit even though it probably isn't as fashionable As I said before if you need more than those settings give you, then you should be well able to define your own
I can't stress enough though that ride height and loading affects the static geometry setting. So at your average loading set the wishbones as level as possible if you have adjustable dampers, and set the geo with the loading that the wishbones are set at.I am afraid I do not have the tools, space or knowledge to do the job myself, so I shall leave it to the experts. I will be attending the Essex TVRCC meeting this weekend so I shall speak to some of them and see what services are available in my area.
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