Handbrake switch,a question
Discussion
Right,so the car is in for its mot on sat,so its currently up on stands being looked over,so far all ok,but in doing so i notice the handbrake warning lights do not now come on when applied,did do,but then started to get erratic,and over time have now stopped working,highly suspect the switch itself,as i could get them to work by slackening the adjuster slightly to get more travel on the switch,but now nothing....... so i can see the switch from underneath,but can only just get my fingers on it,never mind do anything with it,the bible only states it rarely gives problems,and not how do access it,do i need to remove the center console and get at it through the inspection hatch underneath,or do i have to remove the exhaust and then able to get my hands on it that way? sometimes i really do wish i had a ramp and not have to grope around on my back..... any advise gladly received 

Perfect.......from that pick thats the way to get at it, i started to release the center console by removing the rear nuts on the T piece,and raised it enough to see the inspection plate underneath,hence my question if that was the way in,but couldnt raise the front part,any tips on how to remove the console completly like in that pic?.... i also noticed a black plastic box with a flashing red led when my hand went near it,i guess the alarm proximity sensor?
Now that you have released the back end of the tunnel cover the next thing to do is to completely slacken the handbrake cable (or even disconnect it from the rear brakes) so that you can raise the handbrake cable into a vertical position. Then lift the rear of the tunnel cover and slide it backwards to release it from where it wedges under the dash board. Having then removed the gear knob and handbrake/gear lever gaiters it takes a bit of jiggling of the tunnel cover to lift it clear.
On my car the cover plate was secured by sealant and about 10 screws, but came off quite easily as it had been previously removed for a handbrake repair.
This will be a good time to check the handbrake leaver mounting and bolts, and to grease the quadrant through which the cable passes. Also check the condition, and bolt tightness of the gear lever remote. You may even be able to get close enough to the prop-shaft UJ grease nipple to apply some grease (I can't remember if it is accessible from above).
If the rubber gaiter around the handbrake lever is split it may help to know that it is actually a gear lever gaiter which has been trimmed to fit.
On my car the cover plate was secured by sealant and about 10 screws, but came off quite easily as it had been previously removed for a handbrake repair.
This will be a good time to check the handbrake leaver mounting and bolts, and to grease the quadrant through which the cable passes. Also check the condition, and bolt tightness of the gear lever remote. You may even be able to get close enough to the prop-shaft UJ grease nipple to apply some grease (I can't remember if it is accessible from above).
If the rubber gaiter around the handbrake lever is split it may help to know that it is actually a gear lever gaiter which has been trimmed to fit.
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