Broken clutch release arm - removal
Discussion
1996 Griff 500. I've suffered the common problem where the release arm is punctured by the pivot spigot. Does anybody know how to remove the release arm through the T6 'box inspection hole - I've removed the slave cylinder and managed to release it from the spring clip holding it to the pivot, but am having trouble removing it from the release bearing. I read here somewhere that this procedure is possible, but a little fiddly.
It happened on Saturday but tonight's the first chance I've had for a 'proper' look.
Sorry for the bad etiquette of starting my first post with a query - but it's Chatsworth this weekend and I've not missed one yet, and am getting desperate! Have been a regular reader for a while.
It happened on Saturday but tonight's the first chance I've had for a 'proper' look.
Sorry for the bad etiquette of starting my first post with a query - but it's Chatsworth this weekend and I've not missed one yet, and am getting desperate! Have been a regular reader for a while.
I've just done mine (95 chimaera 4L T5 box)....I asked on here and was told some do come out and some don't. I spent many hours trying. In the end I managed to slide the fork back onto the thrust bearing and un did the pivot bolt and it just about had enough room to get the bolt out, then fork came out.
To put it back I put clipped the pivot bolt into the fork, slid it onto the thrust bearing and screwed the bolt back in. It was a pain fitting the slave cylinder rod clip back onto the arm though....in fact it was a pain doing the whole thing.
good luck
To put it back I put clipped the pivot bolt into the fork, slid it onto the thrust bearing and screwed the bolt back in. It was a pain fitting the slave cylinder rod clip back onto the arm though....in fact it was a pain doing the whole thing.
good luck
I broke the clip as well, when I was re fitting the clip/rod, which needs a lot of force to get it to clip on, I moved the rod back to make sure it was clipped on and the arm slid off the thrust bearing!!
I think I ended up un doing the pivot bolt again...So when you check the clip is fixed to the rod/arm, hold the fork so it does not slide off the thrust bearing.
I think I ended up un doing the pivot bolt again...So when you check the clip is fixed to the rod/arm, hold the fork so it does not slide off the thrust bearing.
You're right, Quinny - there's a lot of good guys out there.
Not sure if I'll make Chatsworth - ordered the bits from Clever Trevor on-line, and tried to ring to see when I can expect them, no answer on landline or mobile - hopefully they're too busy packaging my bits.
Have just picked up the master/slave cylinder seal kits - Christopher Neil said they're the same as an Elise, hope they're right!
That photo must be quite old - your floor was looking clean then!!
Not sure if I'll make Chatsworth - ordered the bits from Clever Trevor on-line, and tried to ring to see when I can expect them, no answer on landline or mobile - hopefully they're too busy packaging my bits.
Have just picked up the master/slave cylinder seal kits - Christopher Neil said they're the same as an Elise, hope they're right!
That photo must be quite old - your floor was looking clean then!!
Followed the advice and finally got it out, after some gentle easing with a hammer and 90 minutes of swearing at it - I think the arm may have changed shape a little over the years (and 85K miles). Should be no real problem getting the new bits back in, when they arrive. 
You can see the hole where the pivot has punctured the arm - apparently the Clever Trevor item is re-inforced here.
Thanks again for the advice - was nearly ready to give up.
You can see the hole where the pivot has punctured the arm - apparently the Clever Trevor item is re-inforced here.
Thanks again for the advice - was nearly ready to give up.
Parts arrived in post today, so got them fitted and it's running sweet again.
The slave cylinder seal kit I got didn't fit (main seal bore was too small), so I had to clean and re-fit the old seals; but the master cylinder kit was correct - SP2102 was on the TRW packaging (this is the same code I've seen on another thread) - local Lotus dealer (ex-TVR dealer) quote part No GRE-34 KIT CLUTCH MA LBRA106 (£10 + VAT).
If it helps, the slave cylinder correct seal size is (approx - only had access to a tape measure) OD 7/8" and ID 9/16" and is 1/4" thick.
Chatsworth here we come
Thanks again for all your help.
Quinny - I'll give you a call tomorrow - not sure if you're able to meet en route.
The slave cylinder seal kit I got didn't fit (main seal bore was too small), so I had to clean and re-fit the old seals; but the master cylinder kit was correct - SP2102 was on the TRW packaging (this is the same code I've seen on another thread) - local Lotus dealer (ex-TVR dealer) quote part No GRE-34 KIT CLUTCH MA LBRA106 (£10 + VAT).
If it helps, the slave cylinder correct seal size is (approx - only had access to a tape measure) OD 7/8" and ID 9/16" and is 1/4" thick.
Chatsworth here we come
Thanks again for all your help.
Quinny - I'll give you a call tomorrow - not sure if you're able to meet en route.
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