Running very hot this weekend?
Discussion
Out for a drive this weekend, and noticed that my fans were almost constantly on.
My car has always run at 85-90 degrees, and never overheated, the fans come on and then it cools down, but this weekend it was very hot and even running at 70mph they seemed to be constantly on.
Is there anything I can do (aside from an ali rad) to lower the temps a bit?
I've beled the system and changed the coolant recentlty.
The car's a 4.0 Pre-Cat.
My car has always run at 85-90 degrees, and never overheated, the fans come on and then it cools down, but this weekend it was very hot and even running at 70mph they seemed to be constantly on.
Is there anything I can do (aside from an ali rad) to lower the temps a bit?
I've beled the system and changed the coolant recentlty.
The car's a 4.0 Pre-Cat.
I've noticed that in the really hot days sitting in traffic the fans deal with the temp very well and the fans kick in and out regularly. At 70mph though the fans stay on and the temp gets a little hotter than normal.
I'm starting to think I need the front splitter replacing to get the air flowing out of the engine bay to allow more air in through the rad at higher speeds.
Maybe not the same problem as you but thought I'd add my experience from the last couple of hot weeks!
I'm starting to think I need the front splitter replacing to get the air flowing out of the engine bay to allow more air in through the rad at higher speeds.
Maybe not the same problem as you but thought I'd add my experience from the last couple of hot weeks!
I have the standard in my car.. 82 or 85 I think... I had the reverse problem in it was getting too cold at speed... could drop close to 60 on the motorway at 70 mph with the old 74 deg stat in... your targett temp is 78-80 deg as this is the best temp to run an engine at...
But I agree with Chris,, sounds like trapped air... did it always do this or just since you bled it?..
Also, what's happening to the level in the header tank?.. with trapped air and thoes temps, I suspect it's close to empty when you check it??
But I agree with Chris,, sounds like trapped air... did it always do this or just since you bled it?..
Also, what's happening to the level in the header tank?.. with trapped air and thoes temps, I suspect it's close to empty when you check it??
Edited by TVR Beaver on Monday 7th June 17:41
Mine was running too cold at speed in cooler weather as well so I changed the stat. I checked the new one (an 82) against the old one in a pan of water on the hob bofore fitting (I like to know what change I've made). The old one was fully open when the 82 was only just starting to open, so pretty clear why it was running cold.
Running hot at speed shows that you don't have enough cooling, there is plenty of air flow (fans will not make it better) so something must be restricting the cooling ability of the rad or the water flow is restricted. When re-filling my car I noted that the metal pipe in the bottom main hose is a blatent place for an air lock, it really needs a bleed screw here (will mod mine next time it comes apart) as it goes up from rad and engine, acts like an inverted U bend... It took quite a while to clear the air from here after draining my system (I fitted a new set of pipes up front at the same time as the new stat).
Rob
Running hot at speed shows that you don't have enough cooling, there is plenty of air flow (fans will not make it better) so something must be restricting the cooling ability of the rad or the water flow is restricted. When re-filling my car I noted that the metal pipe in the bottom main hose is a blatent place for an air lock, it really needs a bleed screw here (will mod mine next time it comes apart) as it goes up from rad and engine, acts like an inverted U bend... It took quite a while to clear the air from here after draining my system (I fitted a new set of pipes up front at the same time as the new stat).
Rob
How did you fill the coolant Wildfire?
I filled mine by removing the hose off the top off the swirl tank and pouring the water down the hose, this ensures the water pump is filled I think.
Squeeze the bottom and top hoses as the engine warms up to push any air out of them.
Undo the rad bleed on the top too.
That should do it.
I filled mine by removing the hose off the top off the swirl tank and pouring the water down the hose, this ensures the water pump is filled I think.
Squeeze the bottom and top hoses as the engine warms up to push any air out of them.
Undo the rad bleed on the top too.
That should do it.
WF, make sure your thermostat has a jiggle pin, if it's one without, no issue, just drill 3mm hole where it should be . . this helps to let air bypass the valve when cold/re-filling and is something I picked of here and do to all my stats if they've not got one already fitted. When re-fitting make sure it sits at the top.
Not read whole thread - do you have a bleed screw in the rad, I use mine religiously when bleeding the system. Also I tend to run the engine up with the cap off the expansion tank to get the air out. Not sure yours has one, but surely you can do something similar with the swirl tank . . ?
Not read whole thread - do you have a bleed screw in the rad, I use mine religiously when bleeding the system. Also I tend to run the engine up with the cap off the expansion tank to get the air out. Not sure yours has one, but surely you can do something similar with the swirl tank . . ?
The car was filled as normal, then bled with a head of water above the swirl pot unitl all air had come out. Also used the bleed screw on the rad. The car has been fine for abround 8 months now, just started doing the hot thing last weekend??
I'm going to order a new thermostat to be on the safe side, then re-fill and bleed the system. The car has always run around 90 degrees, and the fans come on when it got hot. Now if I give it some welly, the temp shoots up and the fans kcik in.
Could it be the water pump on the way out??
I checked the cooland level after last weekend and it was 1.5" below the top of the swirl pot???
Could my otter switch be faulty?
I'm going to order a new thermostat to be on the safe side, then re-fill and bleed the system. The car has always run around 90 degrees, and the fans come on when it got hot. Now if I give it some welly, the temp shoots up and the fans kcik in.
Could it be the water pump on the way out??
I checked the cooland level after last weekend and it was 1.5" below the top of the swirl pot???
Could my otter switch be faulty?
griffdude said:
Does your Griff have silicon hoses? I have found that the ones one mine creep a lttle & require a nip up every know & then.
Thats interesting. I've been chasing a water leak for ages and can't find the little sod.Is there a way of permanently sealing silicon hoses with hermatite blue or something.
I had a similar problem with my car running hot - particularly when cruising.
All of the cooling system was in tip top condition
Turned out to be the oil pick up pipe being nearly completely blocked with my new genuine land rover part sump gasket !!
Which i'd fitted 2 months earlier
Worth a check
Andy
All of the cooling system was in tip top condition
Turned out to be the oil pick up pipe being nearly completely blocked with my new genuine land rover part sump gasket !!
Which i'd fitted 2 months earlier
Worth a check
Andy
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