Engine Bay temps, rad specifically

[Wildfire]

Ok, so I've bled the water system, all the air is out.

I've changed the thermostat, drilled a small hole in it in the abscence of a jiggle pin.

I've re-bled the system.

I've checked the otter switch is coming on at around 92 degrees.

But the fans don't go off.

The car seems to be struggling to cool properly.

The top of the rad reads around 80 degrees, but the bottom seems to hit around 50 or so?? The gauge is over reading by 5 degrees or so as when the swirl pot is around 90 or so the gauge is reading 95.

Is this normal? Should I take the rad out and tip it about and try and flush stuff out of it? I've run a hose through it and it was very clear blue in colour.

I'm jus trying to check everything before I tak ethe plunge and buy and alloy rad. I could do without the cost, tbh. Especially with the Growl coming up.

At 80 on the motoreay the car is running around 90 degrees.

[clive f]

temps sound a little high to me, mine used to sit happily at 70- 80 on the motorway, rather than buy a new rad, have yours recored, I had a large bore 3 core fitted and cost about £130.

[dnb]

Silly question, but are you absolutely sure you have the right thermostat? There are loads of different ones and if you have a standard Range Rover one (opens at 88) it will give these symptoms.

[BliarOut]

Have you got a splitter fitted? That is worth 10 degrees at motorway speeds. A smaller front plate buys you another 5 degrees and no plate at all yet another 5 degrees

[SteveGRF]

Have you tried disconnecting the otter switch wires (temporarily) with the engine hot just to see if the fans stop, just in case you have a wiring fault. You could also do another basic check of your old or new otter switch's using a cup of boiled water & a continuity tester / multi meter etc.

[Wildfire]

Yep definitely got the right stat fitted as I've just replaced it with a brand new one.

No splitter fitted, don't think I've ever had one. The number plate won't make a difference as the car's a precat with the tiny opening in the front.

If I switch the engine off and run the ignition, once the temp comes down the fans do switch off. I think I'll replace the otter switch just in case.

It's only recently started doing the running hot thing. Maybe my raffia on it's way out.

Anybody got any recommendations for where to go for a recore in Surrey?

[Wildfire]

Right, Saturday I'm going to pull the rad out and give it a full flush including tipping it upside down and using some rad flush. If no then it's off for a re-core.

Any reccomendations for a recore in Surrey? Preferably around Croydon.

[MPoxon]

Have you considered the Radtec 4 core aluminium radiator that Tim at ACT supplies? I believe the standard Griff rad is a 3 core. My Griff used to have cooling issues, the fans ran constantly after 5 minutes or so of running and yet the temp guage only ever showed 70-80 degrees.

I have since had the following work completed by Leven:

• Radtec 4 core aluminium radiator fitted.
• ACT silcone hoses fitted.
• ACT stainless steel coolant pipes fitted.
• Leven Engine Cooling Kit - Theromstat/Otter Switch/Water Wetter fitted

The car now sits at an indicated constant 90 degrees and the fans rarely come on. Needless to say I am very pleased with the work.

Matthew

[clive f]

true, but why spend £400 when you can get the same result from £130?

try searching on google for someone to do the recore, I used a chap down near Ringwood, but there must be plenty in your area, isn`t David Batty in surrey, I`m sure he can recommend someone.

[Wildfire]

I have considered the alloy rad, but a recore circa £150 is much more affordable than near on £450 for a radtec radiator. I've got the rest on the car already.

[spend]

Quinny said:

Thinking to much hurts my brain

When did you have a brain fitted

[spend]

At least you've not got such an unfair advantage over us then... could have been different if you'd shopped for premium quality parts