92 Griff Clutch problems

[cjs]

My pedal is hitting the floor, obviously a hydraulic leak. Looking at the master cylinder there is a leak around the push rod although I cannot see any fluid in the foot-well. I have also taken off the slave cylinder for inspection, again some fluid is visible around the push rod.

So what are my options? Both parts are original I think, so I want to fix or replace both. Are there repair kits available? Or is it better to just replace? Both parts are coming up at around £60 each, is there a cheaper source?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Also I noticed a couple of spacers between the slave and the gearbox, these were washers with a cut-out, they drop over the retaining bolts, are these necessary? I assume they 'adjust' the clutch bite position on the pedal?

[Wildfire]

Personally I'd replace both as it's probably not just the seals that have gone. I did my master cylinder and the slave went 500 miles later.

[cjs]

Okay. Need more help!

Master cylinder is replaced. Whilst replacing the slave, the push rod came away from the clutch arm, the small plastic clip has broken.....bugger!

one of these. http://www.clever-trevor.net/part/617/clutch-push-...

I have purchased a new clip but am struggling to fit it through the slave cylinder opening, any tips advice? Is it possible? P

Problem is I'm on my back under the car which is on axle stands, not easy, I have given up for today!

There is a bit more history on this thread which I hijacked.

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

I want to drive my car, please help me someone!

[350zwelgje]

Assuming your gearbox is an LT77 as used with RV8s on early griffs and wedges).
Perhaps not the straightforward answer you are looking for....
I had some issues on my wedge and after overhauling the hydraulics the clutch still didn't work! Took of the small plate at the bottom of the bellhousing and discovered that the clutch fork/lever was the problem. Made an access hole in the bellhousing and replaced the fork.
For your information: This was my alternative to take the engine and box out.
Back on your question: with the clutch fork/lever accessible by making an access hole, a new clip can be installed and the pushrod attached.

Rob

[cjs]

350zwelgje said:

Assuming your gearbox is an LT77 as used with RV8s on early griffs and wedges).
Perhaps not the straightforward answer you are looking for....
I had some issues on my wedge and after overhauling the hydraulics the clutch still didn't work! Took of the small plate at the bottom of the bellhousing and discovered that the clutch fork/lever was the problem. Made an access hole in the bellhousing and replaced the fork.
For your information: This was my alternative to take the engine and box out.
Back on your question: with the clutch fork/lever accessible by making an access hole, a new clip can be installed and the pushrod attached.

Rob

Hmmm....that is an option I suppose, to cut an access hole.....if no body else comes up with an alternative then I may give this a go....good idea thanks!

[cjs]

If I do cut an access hole in the bell housing, does anyone have an idea of the size of the hole I will need? Do I cut it on the same axis as the clutch arm or straight up from the bottom? Do I need to cover the hole with a plate?

[350zwelgje]

I made an access hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. As small as possible, but big enough to be able to get in with my hand and to be able to get the clutch fork out (about 6cm wide and 8 cm long), in the center not too close to the edge of the bellhousing (engine side). Yes covered it with a thin sheet of metal with a couple of self tapers to avoid debris entering (although the T5 box has a non-covered hole that I once saw....).

So you are going to bite the bullet?

Rob

[cjs]

350zwelgje said:

I made an access hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. As small as possible, but big enough to be able to get in with my hand and to be able to get the clutch fork out (about 6cm wide and 8 cm long), in the center not too close to the edge of the bellhousing (engine side). Yes covered it with a thin sheet of metal with a couple of self tapers to avoid debris entering (although the T5 box has a non-covered hole that I once saw....).

So you are going to bite the bullet?

Rob

Maybe! I don't think I have any other option, I cannot drive it to a garage to get it fixed, unless somebody else can suggest a way of getting the clip and push-rod on without cutting a hole???

I thinking of using a hole saw an cut a 50mm round hole, what do you think?

[350zwelgje]

Think that it will work. The bellhousing is out a 'soft' light metal and not steel, so not too difficult (I drilled a couple of holes and used a jigsaw). If the hole ends up too small you can easily enlarge it. Be carefull with tools like drills/jigsaws when they protrude inside the bellhousing not to damage something. Go for it I would say.

Rob

[ladygooddriver]

I'm not going to write a sermon here but a word of CAUTION.

Don't disturb the fork off the release bearing housing or you could end up opening a can of worms. I'm sure it's possible to pull the fork forward enough to get a new clip on it through the space available from removing the slave cylinder. If so you can avoid making a hole in the bell housing.

Lady

Edited by ladygooddriver on Monday 20th September 23:03

[350zwelgje]

ladygooddriver said:

I'm not going to write a sermon here but a word of CAUTION.

Don't disturb the fork off the release bearing housing or you could end up opening a can of worms. I'm sure it's possible to pull the fork forward enough to get a new clip on it through the space available from removing the slave cylinder. If so you can avoid making a hole in the bell housing.

Lady

Edited by ladygooddriver on Monday 20th September 23:03

OK, understood. For your information I had to replace the fork in my case and did so through the hole. Perhaps it is the rover V8 - LT77 gearbox & operating stuff that it is ok. You are right that if you dislogde the fork and the slipper pads to the bearing, it takes time and perseverence to put it back in due to many parts and able to move in all sorts of directions. No experience on making holes in other bellhousings lol (normally it is not too difficult to get at the stuff, but TVRs are specials, and I like them to be like that). Bit of inventivity and it can be solved, but not based on reading the book how to do so.


Rob

Edited by 350zwelgje on Thursday 23 September 22:50

[350zwelgje]

cjs,
just curieus, you got it sorted?

Rob

[cjs]

350zwelgje said:

cjs,
just curieus, you got it sorted?

Rob

Will have a go on Saturday, if it stops raining. First I will try and pull the clutch arm forward and see if I can get the clip and push rod on, if not I will be drilling! I'll let you know the outcome.

[ladygooddriver]

350zwelgje said:

OK, understood. For your information I had to replace the fork in my case and did so through the hole.......if you dislogde the fork and the slipper pads to the bearing, it takes time and perseverence to put it back in due to many parts and able to move in all sorts of directions.

The problem isn't getting it back together again in the fashion you did. It's painstaking to do through a cut out in the bell housing I know. The problem could come later. It depends if you rotated the bearing housing onto the fork as it should be done in the correct fashion like as when the box is out of the car, or the fork had to be pushed home straight onto the carrier so as the slipper pads went more or less to their parked position, which makes it unnecessary to rotate the carrier to lock the pads in place. Doing so damages the track though. In time the track can't keep the slipper pads in place because pushing them onto the carrier without rotating it means one slipper went the wrong way to get in position. Continuous clutching puts a rotating force to the carrier where normally the pads keep the fork and all together, being tight in their respective tracks. Once not so tight the possibility of the pad in the damaged track being rotated further means it will allow the fork to fall off the carrier.

Now you might think I'm sounding like an old woman here. I'm actually mature not old, but when this happened to me we plastic welded the track once all back in place so as the carrier couldn't be forced to rotate thus allowing the fork to fall off again. It lasted about two days before the pressures involved just broke the plastic weld off the carrier and made it beyond repair. Result, box out new carrier clutch and all. Ce la vie.



Lady

[ladygooddriver]

cjs said:

Will have a go on Saturday, if it stops raining. First I will try and pull the clutch arm forward and see if I can get the clip and push rod on, if not I will be drilling! I'll let you know the outcome.

As my above post. I would avoid making that hole and messing with the arm, though I am pretty sure the clip can be put on through the slave opening simply by pulling the fork forward.

Lady

[cjs]

Sorted! Could not get the clip on via the slave cylinder hole, I'm sure it would be possible if I had better access, ended up drilling a 25mm hole and was able to get the clip on through there, made a small ally plate up to cover the hole.

My Griff is now back on the road! Thanks for all the advice!

I did have to refit the old Slave as the union was the wrong size! Now need to get the pipe modified or maybe get a new pipe made up??