Yokie A032s more grippy than S03s ?
Discussion
I have part worn So3s front and back and would like to try something a bit more sticky to get off the start line. I am competing in a class where tyres are free provided they are round, black and e marked. Has any body got experience of the Yokahama A032 on a Griff, or other recommendations. As a set is going to cost around £650 it would be a shame if they are no better than what I have.
Thanks for your advice.
Thanks for your advice.
Definitely more grippy. they are super-grippy in the dry. in the wet they will be a bit scary on a griff i would imagine.
i run soft compound ones on my hillclimb car. they need a wee bit of heat and then in the dry they are tremendous! you can really lean on them in the dry and they feel sticky once they are up to heat.
in the wet they are surprisingly good but even so i wouldn't fancy driving on them on an everyday basis. you'd have to be on top of your game all the time in the wet. the hillclimb car is front wheel drive and can get silly-sideways in the wet on the Yokos. you can draw your conclusions abou thow a griff would be on them...
i wouldn't buy SO3s though. better on Goodyear F1 DSG3s or (dunno if these fit griffs) Pirelli P Zeros.
hope that's of some help.
edited: for hillclimb use then yes go for A032s. the medium compounds will last but they won't heat up enough on a hill. Soft compunds be best. Super Softs will last about a week!
>> Edited by tuscan_thunder on Tuesday 30th March 13:30
i run soft compound ones on my hillclimb car. they need a wee bit of heat and then in the dry they are tremendous! you can really lean on them in the dry and they feel sticky once they are up to heat.
in the wet they are surprisingly good but even so i wouldn't fancy driving on them on an everyday basis. you'd have to be on top of your game all the time in the wet. the hillclimb car is front wheel drive and can get silly-sideways in the wet on the Yokos. you can draw your conclusions abou thow a griff would be on them...
i wouldn't buy SO3s though. better on Goodyear F1 DSG3s or (dunno if these fit griffs) Pirelli P Zeros.
hope that's of some help.
edited: for hillclimb use then yes go for A032s. the medium compounds will last but they won't heat up enough on a hill. Soft compunds be best. Super Softs will last about a week!
>> Edited by tuscan_thunder on Tuesday 30th March 13:30
Yes in the dry and no in the wet. If you plan to drive to the event then the tyres will not last that long because you really need soft for sprints. Also be aware that the stickier the tyre, the more the transmission will get strained as the tyre will have a higher wheel spin threshold. The other point is that as you move closer and closer to slicks, the more the suspension has to be changed to get the best out of them.
When I moved to slicks on the 520, I had to stiffen the suspension and change the geometry to get the best out of the car. I built a small trailer and carry a set of slicks and wets with me when I drive to events and then chnage the wheels when I get there. Gives me three tyre choices to choose the wrong ones from.
When I moved to slicks on the 520, I had to stiffen the suspension and change the geometry to get the best out of the car. I built a small trailer and carry a set of slicks and wets with me when I drive to events and then chnage the wheels when I get there. Gives me three tyre choices to choose the wrong ones from.
Thanks for the replies. I guessed that they would wear fairly quickly. Luckily my local hill is only 7 miles so it would not be too bad if I found a set of wheels and made my choice before setting off. It may even be financially sensible rather than turning the S03s to smoke on the hill. I suppose the biggest challenge would be finding an appropriate set of wheels. Anybody got any ideas there ? OK about the potential transmission stress and suspension set-up issues. I think the rubber bits may be the place to start. I have an annoyingly quick Datsun thing to catch.
well, i have made a mk2 fiesta quick enough to hang on to WRX subarus so i think i may be semi-qualified to talk about hillclimbing!!
fastest way to go fast. stop quicker. decent brakes that heat up quickly are a must. i use standard pads in the fiesta as anything else, even green stuff etc takes too long to heat up.
the yokos are good. they aren't the same as bolting on slicks, but you will work the car harder. i don't agree that the gearbox will be under too much extra strain. the box can cope with what, 350bhp and a sh*tload of torque so i think a wee bit extra traction won't affect it too much.
weight is always an issue but the griff's not too bad. if you're keeping it usable then don't chuck stuff. i don't know how the english regs compare to scottish ones. think our ones (scottish ) are more lax.
keep the engine cool. too much heat will only lose you power. a cold air feed could be useful. even a simple pipe from the nose to the intake would work well.
if you put in stiffer springs do the dampers too. but if the springs are too stiff at the front it will understeer more at low speeds. too stiff at the tail (rear wheel drive) and you lose traction. too soft and it will roll into oversteer as it hits bump stops.
also do simple stuff. drive the car hard then get out and feel the temperatures across the surface of the tyres. this gives you an idea of how the tyre and suspension are working. also play with pressures. smaller tyres will give lower gearing too. for hills this is good. practice launches as well.
TA-DA!!! one hillclimb guide!!!!
hope i didn't get too carried away there!
fastest way to go fast. stop quicker. decent brakes that heat up quickly are a must. i use standard pads in the fiesta as anything else, even green stuff etc takes too long to heat up.
the yokos are good. they aren't the same as bolting on slicks, but you will work the car harder. i don't agree that the gearbox will be under too much extra strain. the box can cope with what, 350bhp and a sh*tload of torque so i think a wee bit extra traction won't affect it too much.
weight is always an issue but the griff's not too bad. if you're keeping it usable then don't chuck stuff. i don't know how the english regs compare to scottish ones. think our ones (scottish ) are more lax.
keep the engine cool. too much heat will only lose you power. a cold air feed could be useful. even a simple pipe from the nose to the intake would work well.
if you put in stiffer springs do the dampers too. but if the springs are too stiff at the front it will understeer more at low speeds. too stiff at the tail (rear wheel drive) and you lose traction. too soft and it will roll into oversteer as it hits bump stops.
also do simple stuff. drive the car hard then get out and feel the temperatures across the surface of the tyres. this gives you an idea of how the tyre and suspension are working. also play with pressures. smaller tyres will give lower gearing too. for hills this is good. practice launches as well.
TA-DA!!! one hillclimb guide!!!!
hope i didn't get too carried away there!
My local hill is Gurston Down. Did a couple of school days and a couple of events last year in the V8s. Suffered tramping off the line and felt a bit more grunt and no swinging arms would help so swapped to a Griff for this year. It is in standard trim except for a roll bar and harness. Feels like it should be quicker but did a test day last weekend and was a bit disappointed. The hill was wet and slippy and it was cold but I hoped to be a bit quicker. Best time in the S was 40.28 and all I could manage in the Giff was a miserable 44.62. A Ginetta with effectively the same engine went just sub 40 but the hill had dried a bit by then.
At Gurston you only really stand on the anchors once on the hill and I am fairly happy with the way the car stops. I’ts getting off the start line and getting power down out of the final tight left hander where most time is to be gained, that’s why I am thinking rubber first. I have to admit however that the main limiting factor is the cowardice and inability of the driver.
At Gurston you only really stand on the anchors once on the hill and I am fairly happy with the way the car stops. I’ts getting off the start line and getting power down out of the final tight left hander where most time is to be gained, that’s why I am thinking rubber first. I have to admit however that the main limiting factor is the cowardice and inability of the driver.
ignore the Ginetta. firstly it's a bit lighter than a griff, secondly, concentrate on beating yourself.
the rubber will definitely make a difference. but the temperature will play a surprising difference. so try to compare times from days with roughly the same weather.
try to practice starts. you need to look for a tiny bit of slip (in my experience) and then, with the griff, feed the power in solidly.
do you warm the tyres? with the yokos this will make a huge difference. they will also give you more grip and more confidence to push in corners. the extra traction will let you get on the power harder and earlier.
the rubber will definitely make a difference. but the temperature will play a surprising difference. so try to compare times from days with roughly the same weather.
try to practice starts. you need to look for a tiny bit of slip (in my experience) and then, with the griff, feed the power in solidly.
do you warm the tyres? with the yokos this will make a huge difference. they will also give you more grip and more confidence to push in corners. the extra traction will let you get on the power harder and earlier.
I can believe that warming the Yokies would help but spinning up the S03s is just a waste of tread. Quite right about the kink after the finishline. People with loggers on board tell me that they record the highest G at that point. I still can’t keep hard on the power approaching it, I have stopped breaking into Hollow though. Quite astounding that the big boys cross the line at 150 ish. The other thing to ignore is the straight on tyre marks leading into the bushes at the bottom of Carousel. Agree about the Genetta, the driver and car are quite accomplished. I was simply looking for some benchmark in the conditions.
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