Can you tell me about the clear headlight pods
Discussion
How do they fix to the body - is it just sikaflex or other sealant aroud the edge or something - or is it a bit cleverer than that?
If you fit a new one do they have to be trimmed to fit the aperture?
etc etc all info gratefully received.
I'm thinking of having a winter tinker on an S - it will probably come to nothing (i.e. it will look
and go in the bin) but no harm in having a go TVR style.
I've got a part bonnet from an accident damaged car sorted hopefully so no need to touch my car.
If you fit a new one do they have to be trimmed to fit the aperture?
etc etc all info gratefully received.
I'm thinking of having a winter tinker on an S - it will probably come to nothing (i.e. it will look
and go in the bin) but no harm in having a go TVR style.I've got a part bonnet from an accident damaged car sorted hopefully so no need to touch my car.
On a Griff, the clear glass is attached to the pod with self tappers and foam tape. The whole assembly needs to be removed, or at least freely movable in the appature to take it apart.
There is a single large machine CSK machine screw below the bulb access panel in the wheel arch. This holds a metal plate that supports the back of the light fitting. It needs to be slackened a bit (but not removed).
You can then remove the single M6 (from memory) nut that holds the top of this plate to the headlamp itself after removing the cover plate. There should be enough slack to rotate the metal plate off the studding in the light fitting and get it to lay flat out of the way.
The whole pod is now only held in with sikaflex (or black silicone if you are lucky) that can be removed with careful application of a new stanly knife blade. I would love to hear a better way - there is significant risk of damaging paintwork.
There is a single large machine CSK machine screw below the bulb access panel in the wheel arch. This holds a metal plate that supports the back of the light fitting. It needs to be slackened a bit (but not removed).
You can then remove the single M6 (from memory) nut that holds the top of this plate to the headlamp itself after removing the cover plate. There should be enough slack to rotate the metal plate off the studding in the light fitting and get it to lay flat out of the way.
The whole pod is now only held in with sikaflex (or black silicone if you are lucky) that can be removed with careful application of a new stanly knife blade. I would love to hear a better way - there is significant risk of damaging paintwork.
Edited by dnb on Tuesday 2nd November 00:45
I'm a bit unsure what you are trying to do and what you are asking Chris, but I'll be taking out my headlight pods when the car is taken off the road for the winter.
Quite happy for you to pop round, have a coffee and have a look at what you are up against when they are out.
Does this help?
You can see the screws and how roughly the cover has been shaped to the pod.
Quite happy for you to pop round, have a coffee and have a look at what you are up against when they are out.
Does this help?
You can see the screws and how roughly the cover has been shaped to the pod.
Barkychoc said:
I'm thinking of having a winter tinker on an S - it will probably come to nothing (i.e. it will look and go in the bin) but no harm in having a go TVR style.
If you are considering fitting faired headlamp covers on an S then I have heard that the MGB Le Mans style perspex covers are more suited to the curvature of the wing/headlamp recess. and go in the bin) but no harm in having a go TVR style.
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