Discussion
just about to get cold in the garage and fit a new john eales baffled sump and oil pick up. don't want those bolts vibrating loose from the new oil pickup .
Have seen various notes saying loctite them - which type of loctite 270?
If used do you clean the bolts of old grease/oil with thinners first or doesn't it really matter and how much loctite is used?
TA Jes
Have seen various notes saying loctite them - which type of loctite 270?
If used do you clean the bolts of old grease/oil with thinners first or doesn't it really matter and how much loctite is used?
TA Jes
Edited by jesfirth on Sunday 28th November 12:13
270 is intended for “permanent” thread locking but you can undo it 243 is less strong for things that you probably will need to undo 601 is for things that you absolutely, definitely don’t want to undo again. The blurb says it is tolerant of oil but best to clean the parts reasonably.
With that sump Jes I suggest you check the alignment of your dipstick with the hole in the baffle plate before you bolt it on. The dipstick angle is determined by the tube in the block, the angle of which is “adjustable”. It is rather frustrating if you get the sump on and can’t get the dipstick to fit.
With that sump Jes I suggest you check the alignment of your dipstick with the hole in the baffle plate before you bolt it on. The dipstick angle is determined by the tube in the block, the angle of which is “adjustable”. It is rather frustrating if you get the sump on and can’t get the dipstick to fit.
spend, steve thanks.
steve - cheers for the note on the dipstick i had wondered about that I was planning to fit the sump with the dipstick in situ so to speak.
i will also be putting a thin veneer of plastiscene over the front sump platform where it is "hammered" in to avoid the big ends and propose to loose fit the sump without a gasket turn the engine over by hand to check that the big ends are clear of it, then whip the sump back off just to be sure.
any other precautions i should take?
does the griff 500 pick up oil pressure ok after being drained without packing pumps etc. My 400se with a remote filter was a pita i had to fill that remote oil filter separately. the filter on my griff is in the original position on the block -it is not remote
steve - cheers for the note on the dipstick i had wondered about that I was planning to fit the sump with the dipstick in situ so to speak.
i will also be putting a thin veneer of plastiscene over the front sump platform where it is "hammered" in to avoid the big ends and propose to loose fit the sump without a gasket turn the engine over by hand to check that the big ends are clear of it, then whip the sump back off just to be sure.
any other precautions i should take?
does the griff 500 pick up oil pressure ok after being drained without packing pumps etc. My 400se with a remote filter was a pita i had to fill that remote oil filter separately. the filter on my griff is in the original position on the block -it is not remote
Jes,
Trawling through posts and saw this one.
Dont know if you have fitted the sump yet but the following advice was given to me on fitting a sump with a cork gasket. Ive done it a couple of times now and it results in an oil tight sealed sump.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and apply a layer of Polyurethane sealer to the block (or to the mating face of the sump if the engine is in the car still). Lay the gasket on and put another layer of sealer on top. Set on the sump and just nip up the bolts until you see the sealer starting to appear at the sides. Leave it for about 30 minutes or until the sealer is starting to go semi set and then tighten down some more. When the sealer has gone to "rubber" tighten down to the torque setting of 10 ft lbs and trim off the surplus gasket and sealer with a Stanley knife.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Marty
Trawling through posts and saw this one.
Dont know if you have fitted the sump yet but the following advice was given to me on fitting a sump with a cork gasket. Ive done it a couple of times now and it results in an oil tight sealed sump.
Make sure that the mating faces are clean and apply a layer of Polyurethane sealer to the block (or to the mating face of the sump if the engine is in the car still). Lay the gasket on and put another layer of sealer on top. Set on the sump and just nip up the bolts until you see the sealer starting to appear at the sides. Leave it for about 30 minutes or until the sealer is starting to go semi set and then tighten down some more. When the sealer has gone to "rubber" tighten down to the torque setting of 10 ft lbs and trim off the surplus gasket and sealer with a Stanley knife.
Hope this helps.
Cheers
Marty
Edited by Marty V8 on Wednesday 8th December 18:39
jesfirth said:
marty thanks - not done it yet - waiting for new big end shells to arrive in the post.
what is polyeurethane sealer and where does it come from?
Its similar to seam sealer and doesnt peel like silicone sealer will. Car Builder Solutions sells it amongst others. Its generally known by its trade name of Sikaflex.what is polyeurethane sealer and where does it come from?
I got something very similar from Jewsons builders - polysulphide sealer.
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