Brakes or Suspension ..... ????
Discussion
Driver training. If you find the brakes are overheating on track then it makes sense to upgrade them, but I would be very surprised if you suffer from overheating on the road (and whether or not they overheat on track will depend more on your driving style than on the spec of the brakes). Similarly if you find the car setup does not suit you then consider upgrading the suspension, but think carefully before you hand over the cash because this is generally a matter of finding the best compromise for you rather than fixing inherent faults in the car. But I wouldn't advise spending money on suspension or brakes just because you have the money to burn. (Give it to me instead please!)
Pete,
You know me ... I'm only going to spend money to get better performance where I need it ... or at least where I think I need it.
Suspension would be my preferred choice as the original brake set up on the Griffith with decent fluid and pads is more than capable for my road driving and is suitable for the track.
It was only at Donington after 6 or so laps that even with hot pads they began to suffer.
Driver training, have had 2 sessions a year (1st Lotus/Bookatrack)for the last 3 years which has helped measurably (6th fastest at Zolder last year ).
More would be good though and will continue to have tuition each year.
I would like bigger brakes as it would be nice to increase the power of the brakes, I would not do it for the fade issue.
I struggle to believe that anyone suffers with brake fade on the road in a Griffith .... if you are .... I am not going to be asking for a lift !!
So suspension .... oh, the compromise to be found. Nice to tour in, fast at the track ...... what spring rates then ???
You know me ... I'm only going to spend money to get better performance where I need it ... or at least where I think I need it.
Suspension would be my preferred choice as the original brake set up on the Griffith with decent fluid and pads is more than capable for my road driving and is suitable for the track.
It was only at Donington after 6 or so laps that even with hot pads they began to suffer.
Driver training, have had 2 sessions a year (1st Lotus/Bookatrack)for the last 3 years which has helped measurably (6th fastest at Zolder last year ).
More would be good though and will continue to have tuition each year.
I would like bigger brakes as it would be nice to increase the power of the brakes, I would not do it for the fade issue.
I struggle to believe that anyone suffers with brake fade on the road in a Griffith .... if you are .... I am not going to be asking for a lift !!
So suspension .... oh, the compromise to be found. Nice to tour in, fast at the track ...... what spring rates then ???
I've never owned a Griff so I'm not the best person to advise on what things need improvement, but having been in a few and seen loads on track (and rather too many off it too) I've got my opinion about the things that I would investigate if I owned one.
As standard I think the brake bias is too far to the back. This seems to be common on all TVRs. This combines with low speed bleed on the rear dampers and masses of engine braking to make the car very tail happy under heavy braking especially transiently when you apply the brakes abruptly. You may feel yours is fine in which case leave well alone but I think you could usefully increase the size of the front discs from standard (260mm?) to about 285mm. This moves the brake bias forwards a useful amount and also increases the heat dissipation by about 30%.
The next step for me would be to stiffen the suspension and go for a slightly more aggressive geometry, combined with less bleed on the rear dampers. Nitron is the ideal way to achieve both of these if you can afford it. These changes will tend to increase the lateral response of the car and make it slightly more inclined to break away, so you will find you can find more grip but you will need to work harder to keep the car in shape. Because of this, I'd be inclined to sort out the brake balance first so you don't compound the problem.
As standard I think the brake bias is too far to the back. This seems to be common on all TVRs. This combines with low speed bleed on the rear dampers and masses of engine braking to make the car very tail happy under heavy braking especially transiently when you apply the brakes abruptly. You may feel yours is fine in which case leave well alone but I think you could usefully increase the size of the front discs from standard (260mm?) to about 285mm. This moves the brake bias forwards a useful amount and also increases the heat dissipation by about 30%.
The next step for me would be to stiffen the suspension and go for a slightly more aggressive geometry, combined with less bleed on the rear dampers. Nitron is the ideal way to achieve both of these if you can afford it. These changes will tend to increase the lateral response of the car and make it slightly more inclined to break away, so you will find you can find more grip but you will need to work harder to keep the car in shape. Because of this, I'd be inclined to sort out the brake balance first so you don't compound the problem.
Not bad looking car you have there Johno :yes; Is it black? i've never seen a black Griff in the flesh before.
Only from my road experience - suspension was very jiggly so got shane at SFR to fit a set of AVO adjustables for about £600 - made a world of difference.
As for the brakes... well, they're pretty good already, for my needs any way, so I left well alone.
So to summarise - suspension, then if you have any left, some nice aesthetic bits that you can actually see, like new over mats or ACT hoses or something.
Only from my road experience - suspension was very jiggly so got shane at SFR to fit a set of AVO adjustables for about £600 - made a world of difference.
As for the brakes... well, they're pretty good already, for my needs any way, so I left well alone.
So to summarise - suspension, then if you have any left, some nice aesthetic bits that you can actually see, like new over mats or ACT hoses or something.
yep...Nitrons first.
will help with braking, making the car far more stable into and onto the corners.
in my experience, the brakes are adequate and fairly well balanced. as V8s (peter i beleived) indicated, engine braking is what throws (literally) most people. You HAVE to heel and toe these cars or ONLY brake in a straight line.
all depending on experience of course.
Peninsula and Joolspeed are the people for these. depends on geography (who's closest) they're both excellent...jools by reputation and peninsula by experience.
Nitrons gave me 1 1/2 secs per lap of brands over the standard worn shocks. and meant i could follow Carrera4 and a Noble round Paddock flat out!!! 'bout 80mph i believe...but then i wasn't looking once i started turning in at 90
once your used to the shocks the brakes will need upgrading
hope this helps.
by the way, thats exactly how i started 3 years (and several thousand pounds) ago!!
again!
will help with braking, making the car far more stable into and onto the corners.
in my experience, the brakes are adequate and fairly well balanced. as V8s (peter i beleived) indicated, engine braking is what throws (literally) most people. You HAVE to heel and toe these cars or ONLY brake in a straight line.
all depending on experience of course.
Peninsula and Joolspeed are the people for these. depends on geography (who's closest) they're both excellent...jools by reputation and peninsula by experience.
Nitrons gave me 1 1/2 secs per lap of brands over the standard worn shocks. and meant i could follow Carrera4 and a Noble round Paddock flat out!!! 'bout 80mph i believe...but then i wasn't looking once i started turning in at 90
once your used to the shocks the brakes will need upgrading
hope this helps.
by the way, thats exactly how i started 3 years (and several thousand pounds) ago!!
again!Leadfoot said:
Remember your passenger ride in mine at Goodwood last year?
What was best in your opinion - the handling or the brakes (both upgraded, Nitrons/285mm discs 4 pots)?
If I had to choose only one option it'd be the Nitrons.
Both !!!
Aaaarghh ...
Toughy now ...
Nitron Suspension seems to transform Griffith's but it will result in some harder use of the stoppers ..
...or someone who has spent a couple of grand on his Griff and reckons it'll now go round any corner at any speed!
...or doesn't realise how much more speed he's carrying!
(having to increase braking on turn in, in a Griff, is a recipe for disaster!)
if you carry 10 mph thro the first corner
down the straight
then carry thru the next corner...
sooner or later you are going to get rid of alot of speed...or visit the Kitty litter!
getting rid of an extra 15mph at the end of the straight into the hairpin/chicane takes ALOT more braking time and power.
and this is the standard for modern circuits nowadays.
this speed SHOULD be gradual tho (if you have any sense) so standard brakes will be adequate for several trackdays post Nitrons.
(IMHO ofcourse and respect to peter
)
...or doesn't realise how much more speed he's carrying!
(having to increase braking on turn in, in a Griff, is a recipe for disaster!)
if you carry 10 mph thro the first corner
down the straight
then carry thru the next corner...
sooner or later you are going to get rid of alot of speed...or visit the Kitty litter!
getting rid of an extra 15mph at the end of the straight into the hairpin/chicane takes ALOT more braking time and power.
and this is the standard for modern circuits nowadays.
this speed SHOULD be gradual tho (if you have any sense) so standard brakes will be adequate for several trackdays post Nitrons.
(IMHO ofcourse and respect to peter
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