engine out idiots guide
Discussion
For any one who has not done it before (like me for example) my idiots guide to a griff 500 engine removal is below - might be helpful for someone wondering where that bit goes. Refitting will I hope be the opposite. took about 8 hours on my own
Griff 500 Engine Removal
1. Remove bonnet by disconnecting the catches each side
2. Disconnect battery
3. Remove cable tie from bonnet catch cable – was cable tied to rear hose on plenum
4. Unplug lambda sensors from exhaust and from loom ends
5. Remove vacuum pipe from top of plenum and bowl on dizzy. NB the orange end should be closest to the dizzy
6. Remove black 5/8” hose from drivers side of plenum (the one that runs into the drivers side wing)
7. Unplug stepper motor from rear of plenum
8. Unplug hot wire connector
9. Remove 70mm induction elbow and unbolt hotwire sensor from wing
10. Remove dipstick
11. Remove exhaust clamps to Y piece
12. Undo blue hose to base of water header tank that goes to passenger side of rad and drain water
13. Undo blue hose to underside of water pump – fitted to bent welded steel pipe that goes to drivers side of rad
14. Unplug water temp sensor at base of water header tank. 2 spade connectors. Black wire closest to front of engine. Green/brown wire closest to engine
15. Remove water header tank. 3 bolts. 2 long ones through water pump with washers set in sealant. 1 short bolt into passenger side head. Remove short blue hose that leads to top of engine
16. Remove dizzy cap. Centre lead goes to coil. Fit rubber glove
17. Remove clipped wires to dizzy
18. Remove coli bracket from driver side of plenum
19. Undo accelerator cable. NB pin goes on engine side not on bulkhead side
20. Undo 6 plenum bolts and lift plenum
21. Pull off 5mmbreather hose to under side of stepper motor and to rear of vacuum on drivers side
22. Disconnect black 5/8” rubber hose form T piece to front passenger side plenum base
23. Undo black 3 pin plug to passenger side plenum
24. Undo black 5/8” rubber hose form rear of plenum to front of engine – fits to vertical metal spigot between dizzy and temp guage
25. Disconnect power steering connectors on alternator 4No
26. Disconnect coil. –ve yellow wires +ve white wires
27. Disconnect wires to alternator. Double brown wires to 2 rear passenger side large bolt. Brown/yellow wire to 5 small passenger side bolt. Black wire to 6 drivers side to power steering box fixed to alternator. NB spade connector fits before plastic box for good connection
28. Remove alternator
29. Remove alternator brackets.. NB bolt hole 2” left of timing mark and the bracket fits vertically
30. Remove LHS blue water pump hose
31. Not used
32. 32unplug temp sender to LHS of dizzy – green wire with black extension
33. Remove 3 cables form oil pump. Black wire to front of pump, spade to sender and round bolt fitting to oil temp sensor
34. Injector layout as marked on the wings in tape. Numbering starts at passenger side rear with 1 and then works 2, 3, 4 to the passenger side front and then starts at 5 on drivers side front and works to no 8 rear of drivers side
35. Remove twin black cable earth form no 8 injector bolt. NB earth cables loop around the front of the plenum.
36. Remove 6No trumpet base bolts and jack trumpet base off vertically
37. Disconnect 2 no fuel lines. Bank 5-8 to regulator – longer black hose, 1-4 to steel pipe is the shorter black hose
38. Undo 2 no back water heater hoses to rear of engine
39. Remove front chassis rail
40. Remove fuel rails and injectors including 8No clips that go flat side down
41. Remove black twin 3mm earth wire form loom to stud on rear passenger side of head
42. Remove front passenger side water pump hose black 1 ½” with white tippex on it
43. Jack up car and place jack under sump
44. Undo Y piece exhaust clamp. Remove exhaust allen key bolt to front passenger side of engine and remove Y piece exhaust
45. Remove black lead (13mm spanner) and bayonet clip form starter motor. NB cable routed between engine and manifold then outside
46. Remove exhaust skid plate
47. Undo 8 no bolts to bellhousing, need a flexi joint on a long socket bar 9/16”
48. Undo engine mounts from chassis – 2 bolts each side and then undo mounts form block – need 17mm ratchet spanner
49. Get engine hoist slide it in form the side with the legs either side of the front jack (NB remove wheel on that side. Spray garage floor around the hoist leg locations for ease of location for reinstalling engine. Lift out engine
50. Yeehah - DONE
BTW - as advised on here take loads of photos, buy some masking tape and an indeliable pen and tape and label everthing as you go along. put all parts/bolts in separate freezer bags and label each of those as well.
NB I have electric pump to a standard hydraulic power steering rack so that element will need amending for a standard power steering car
Griff 500 Engine Removal
1. Remove bonnet by disconnecting the catches each side
2. Disconnect battery
3. Remove cable tie from bonnet catch cable – was cable tied to rear hose on plenum
4. Unplug lambda sensors from exhaust and from loom ends
5. Remove vacuum pipe from top of plenum and bowl on dizzy. NB the orange end should be closest to the dizzy
6. Remove black 5/8” hose from drivers side of plenum (the one that runs into the drivers side wing)
7. Unplug stepper motor from rear of plenum
8. Unplug hot wire connector
9. Remove 70mm induction elbow and unbolt hotwire sensor from wing
10. Remove dipstick
11. Remove exhaust clamps to Y piece
12. Undo blue hose to base of water header tank that goes to passenger side of rad and drain water
13. Undo blue hose to underside of water pump – fitted to bent welded steel pipe that goes to drivers side of rad
14. Unplug water temp sensor at base of water header tank. 2 spade connectors. Black wire closest to front of engine. Green/brown wire closest to engine
15. Remove water header tank. 3 bolts. 2 long ones through water pump with washers set in sealant. 1 short bolt into passenger side head. Remove short blue hose that leads to top of engine
16. Remove dizzy cap. Centre lead goes to coil. Fit rubber glove
17. Remove clipped wires to dizzy
18. Remove coli bracket from driver side of plenum
19. Undo accelerator cable. NB pin goes on engine side not on bulkhead side
20. Undo 6 plenum bolts and lift plenum
21. Pull off 5mmbreather hose to under side of stepper motor and to rear of vacuum on drivers side
22. Disconnect black 5/8” rubber hose form T piece to front passenger side plenum base
23. Undo black 3 pin plug to passenger side plenum
24. Undo black 5/8” rubber hose form rear of plenum to front of engine – fits to vertical metal spigot between dizzy and temp guage
25. Disconnect power steering connectors on alternator 4No
26. Disconnect coil. –ve yellow wires +ve white wires
27. Disconnect wires to alternator. Double brown wires to 2 rear passenger side large bolt. Brown/yellow wire to 5 small passenger side bolt. Black wire to 6 drivers side to power steering box fixed to alternator. NB spade connector fits before plastic box for good connection
28. Remove alternator
29. Remove alternator brackets.. NB bolt hole 2” left of timing mark and the bracket fits vertically
30. Remove LHS blue water pump hose
31. Not used
32. 32unplug temp sender to LHS of dizzy – green wire with black extension
33. Remove 3 cables form oil pump. Black wire to front of pump, spade to sender and round bolt fitting to oil temp sensor
34. Injector layout as marked on the wings in tape. Numbering starts at passenger side rear with 1 and then works 2, 3, 4 to the passenger side front and then starts at 5 on drivers side front and works to no 8 rear of drivers side
35. Remove twin black cable earth form no 8 injector bolt. NB earth cables loop around the front of the plenum.
36. Remove 6No trumpet base bolts and jack trumpet base off vertically
37. Disconnect 2 no fuel lines. Bank 5-8 to regulator – longer black hose, 1-4 to steel pipe is the shorter black hose
38. Undo 2 no back water heater hoses to rear of engine
39. Remove front chassis rail
40. Remove fuel rails and injectors including 8No clips that go flat side down
41. Remove black twin 3mm earth wire form loom to stud on rear passenger side of head
42. Remove front passenger side water pump hose black 1 ½” with white tippex on it
43. Jack up car and place jack under sump
44. Undo Y piece exhaust clamp. Remove exhaust allen key bolt to front passenger side of engine and remove Y piece exhaust
45. Remove black lead (13mm spanner) and bayonet clip form starter motor. NB cable routed between engine and manifold then outside
46. Remove exhaust skid plate
47. Undo 8 no bolts to bellhousing, need a flexi joint on a long socket bar 9/16”
48. Undo engine mounts from chassis – 2 bolts each side and then undo mounts form block – need 17mm ratchet spanner
49. Get engine hoist slide it in form the side with the legs either side of the front jack (NB remove wheel on that side. Spray garage floor around the hoist leg locations for ease of location for reinstalling engine. Lift out engine
50. Yeehah - DONE
BTW - as advised on here take loads of photos, buy some masking tape and an indeliable pen and tape and label everthing as you go along. put all parts/bolts in separate freezer bags and label each of those as well.
NB I have electric pump to a standard hydraulic power steering rack so that element will need amending for a standard power steering car
jesfirth said:
NB I have electric pump to a standard hydraulic power steering rack so that element will need amending for a standard power steering car
Was it yours that Joo converted from manual many moons ago???I would advise removing all the electrical connections & peeling the looms back first. The mech stuff is pretty straightforward, so all the head scratchers really need to do is stick fixings in bags. Whereas doing the leccy stuff clean & fresh gives more chance of getting labels/ photos & tieing stuff nicely out of the way before starting the more agricultural bits IYSWIM.
Making lists will always be fallible due to the subtle differences between the cars BTW.
Hi spend - mine was converted by Top Cats last spring. It has a standard griff ps rack with a citreon saxo hatdralic pump that sits down by the rads and then a small reservior on the drivers side inner wing. It is all wired up through fuses etc taking power from the alternator. they did a lovely job. the biggest problem was getting hold of a ps rack - hens teeth and bloody expensive (the scrappies wanted over £1000 for one!) and now I have managed to find a spare one as well. its like buses but good for the future
I converted the V8S to power steering with a PAS rack (paid £100 right place right time 
) and the citroen electric pump - it works a treat although I have the one with integrated reservoir which is even better - it means you only have the 2 main feed / return pipes to worry about. Pre serp pulleys are a nightmare and I gave up trying to sort an engine driven pump.
) and the citroen electric pump - it works a treat although I have the one with integrated reservoir which is even better - it means you only have the 2 main feed / return pipes to worry about. Pre serp pulleys are a nightmare and I gave up trying to sort an engine driven pump.Gassing Station | Griffith | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff