What's the best Grease for CV joints?

[TVR Beaver]

Just cleaning out the CV joints and fitting new boots (Bailcast DBC800).... you get a silver packet of grease to re-fill the CV joint but there are no markings on it so not sure what make and grade it is?.... My CV joints are in great shape.... so for the cost of a tub of Grease, I may as well ensure I'm putting the right stuff in there....
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Does anyone have any thoughts on this at all... Just std Molley grease or is there something better??

Cheers...

[hiltonig]

I put in the performance stuff from clever Trevor, don't overfill the cv joints though

[macdeb]

hiltonig said:

I put in the performance stuff from clever Trevor, don't overfill the cv joints though

Why? What do you call overfilling?

[TVR Beaver]

hiltonig said:

I put in the performance stuff from clever Trevor, don't overfill the cv joints though

The CV2 stuff?... says its for raceing drive shafts and bearings?......
or my just go Quinny's way... will take a look in Halfords tomorrow see whats on offer ...
Cheers

[TVR Beaver]

Quinny said:

Putting to much in

The NEO HP CC-1 or the CV500 gets good reviews... but are these guy's just guessing coz it cost the £25 a tube.. so it must be good????... not sure?

[macdeb]

Quinny said:

Putting to much in

[TVR Beaver]

I have some Phalank EP2M coming... It's 5% Molly and designed for race applications... Made for Silkolean by a company called Ironsides.... It's the best and CV joints will last for ever once installed!!...

[spend]

Redline CV2 synthetic grease.

Neil Anderson told me to stick to this stuff years ago, and it goes in the LR for life (which used to be a pain to grease up at service time with water / degrading greases..)

[TVR Beaver]

Yes.. was looking at this earlier.. it does look good stuff... will get the spec sheet and have a read... Although the Grease I have coming is designed with Land Rover for the Paris Dacar off road race and Rover Metro V6 rally cars... so sounds just the job...

[TVR Beaver]

When re-fitting is it worth while using a bit of Hylamar to ensure it seals and not grease can get out or water in?.. I know these are machined faces but could happen??

[spend]

Personally I prefer to just lightly grease the rubber & metal jointing surfaces so they don't gall when clamped up, should seal adequately well and the thin coat of grease should make an adequate water barrier.

[TVR Beaver]

spend said:

Personally I prefer to just lightly grease the rubber & metal jointing surfaces so they don't gall when clamped up, should seal adequately well and the thin coat of grease should make an adequate water barrier.

Great... But i was meaning more on the CV to diff flange and wheel spindle flange... Assume the same applies

[spend]

Unless hands are already covered in another grease I tend to copperslip all those metal/metal surfaces ~ theres always a tub handy with a brush stuck in it

[TVR Beaver]

spend said:

Unless hands are already covered in another grease I tend to copperslip all those metal/metal surfaces ~ theres always a tub handy with a brush stuck in it

Indeed.. that will do... may have a bit left in the bottom of the tub having finished the Powerflex ... Where does it all go (usualy all over me!!)