Made some rear drop links... Hope they work :)
Discussion
Well, set about making some rear drop links today… I had some very good rod ends in the garage so figured out a way of using them… 
Looked at the Steve Heath units and they are a bit like those… Not sure however why Steve does not use a male and a female and put the folk on the top arm mount… Anyway, the ones I had were all male so I had no choice….
May be a tad over engineered… but come in a plus 40% on the weight of the original ones… so to say they are all SS, not bad…
I only have a lathe so took ages milling in the tool post with the cutter in the chuck….
See how they perform…
.
.
Had to put them on the outside on the ARB as the inside didn't want to work without locking out... Is this how the SH ones fit?... Took the shocks off (again) and I get full movement so should be good?
.
Looked at the Steve Heath units and they are a bit like those… Not sure however why Steve does not use a male and a female and put the folk on the top arm mount… Anyway, the ones I had were all male so I had no choice….May be a tad over engineered… but come in a plus 40% on the weight of the original ones… so to say they are all SS, not bad…
I only have a lathe so took ages milling in the tool post with the cutter in the chuck….
See how they perform…
.
.
Had to put them on the outside on the ARB as the inside didn't want to work without locking out... Is this how the SH ones fit?... Took the shocks off (again) and I get full movement so should be good?
.
Nice bit of machining there.
Orientation is the key here. And those rod ends look tiny for the forces operating on them.
The originals can rotate at the wishbone end and getting the alignment right is very hard (if they can't move correctly). The centre rod end looks like it has a bigger deviation angle which will also help, though they may be restricted by the blocks.
Bet they dont last over 1000 miles. betcha £5 (That'll help get your £300 back)
Hope they work.
Andy
Orientation is the key here. And those rod ends look tiny for the forces operating on them.
The originals can rotate at the wishbone end and getting the alignment right is very hard (if they can't move correctly). The centre rod end looks like it has a bigger deviation angle which will also help, though they may be restricted by the blocks.
Bet they dont last over 1000 miles. betcha £5 (That'll help get your £300 back)
Hope they work.
Andy
Edited by Guillotine on Monday 28th February 09:09
Guillotine said:
Nice bit of machining there.
Orientation is the key here. And those rod ends look tiny for the forces operating on them.
The originals can rotate at the wishbone end and getting the alignment right is very hard (if they can't move correctly). The centre rod end looks like it has a bigger deviation angle which will also help, though they may be restricted by the blocks.
Bet they dont last over 1000 miles. betcha £5 (That'll help get your £300 back)
Hope they work.
Andy
They are fitted and appear to work fine.. taking the shocks off they don't lock until 2" below full drop and 1" above max height... the rod ends are 8mm and 10mm and of very good steel (they are actualy Tornado Fighter flap actuation joints from my old company... when they closed all sorts was heading for the skip... so some found their way to my house Orientation is the key here. And those rod ends look tiny for the forces operating on them.
The originals can rotate at the wishbone end and getting the alignment right is very hard (if they can't move correctly). The centre rod end looks like it has a bigger deviation angle which will also help, though they may be restricted by the blocks.
Bet they dont last over 1000 miles. betcha £5 (That'll help get your £300 back)
Hope they work.
Andy
Edited by Guillotine on Monday 28th February 09:09
) The original units are only 8 and 10mm so should be fine??Steve... It would have been far cheaper just to buy yours I agree... and a lot less bother messing about I agree
But may be you could re-think the design... as I said before by using a male and a female unit screwed into each other... and the folk machined into the top mount?.. May be these would work out cheaper for you... and by putting the pivot points as far out as poss... you'll get improved articulation?... worth a thought?...
TVR Beaver said:
Hi.. and thanks... No I don't think so... They probably cost about £300 all in if you count my time and electricity costs...
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That said... you should be able to buy similar parts off the shelf and just screw them together?...
typical yorkshire man " if that does owt for nowt make sure tha does it for tha self,".
That said... you should be able to buy similar parts off the shelf and just screw them together?...
Edited by TVR Beaver on Monday 28th February 07:48
i,ll lend you a "bob for the meter John"
TVR Beaver said:
They are fitted and appear to work fine.. taking the shocks off they don't lock until 2" below full drop and 1" above max height... the rod ends are 8mm and 10mm and of very good steel (they are actualy Tornado Fighter flap actuation joints from my old company... when they closed all sorts was heading for the skip... so some found their way to my house ) The original units are only 8 and 10mm so should be fine??
"tax payers money no wonder country going to the dogs just imagine all them yorkies in there tool sheds at bottom of the garden doing candle lit machining" o well at least we lancastrians home of TVR weren,t as tight, god forbid that TVR,s had have been created by a YORKIE!!!!"
Steve... It would have been far cheaper just to buy yours I agree... and a lot less bother messing about I agree
But may be you could re-think the design... as I said before by using a male and a female unit screwed into each other... and the folk machined into the top mount?.. May be these would work out cheaper for you... and by putting the pivot points as far out as poss... you'll get improved articulation?... worth a thought?...
) The original units are only 8 and 10mm so should be fine??"tax payers money no wonder country going to the dogs just imagine all them yorkies in there tool sheds at bottom of the garden doing candle lit machining" o well at least we lancastrians home of TVR weren,t as tight, god forbid that TVR,s had have been created by a YORKIE!!!!"
Steve... It would have been far cheaper just to buy yours I agree... and a lot less bother messing about I agree
But may be you could re-think the design... as I said before by using a male and a female unit screwed into each other... and the folk machined into the top mount?.. May be these would work out cheaper for you... and by putting the pivot points as far out as poss... you'll get improved articulation?... worth a thought?...
wycoller said:
typical yorkshire man " if that does owt for nowt make sure tha does it for tha self,"
i,ll lend you a "bob for the meter John"
i,ll lend you a "bob for the meter John"
.. Cheaky bugger!... but got to say Steve's are better value Anyway... what you doing up at this time... it's the middle on the night in your part of the world??
Edited by TVR Beaver on Monday 28th February 10:21
TVR Beaver said:
.. Cheaky bugger!... but got to say Steve's are better value Anyway... what you doing up at this time... it's the middle on the night in your part of the world??
Edited by TVR Beaver on Monday 28th February 10:21
at sea trying to get 2x4.5MW vfd DRIVES MAPPED
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