Discussion
Hi folks, back after a short layoff and trying to get this clubbie finished.
Good news is that the head on the second new 1275 has 35mm inlets and 29 exhausts. Guess I'll need to remove an exhaust valve to see if it's unleaded.
Tried last night to check out the clutch friction plate and whilst the large bolt came out of the end of the crank, and the 6 bolts came out of the pressure plate, I cannot get the pressure plate off the flywheel.
Am I missing something, does the flywheel need to come off the engine first, is there an easy way of shifting it, usually been able to lever/tap/prise off flywheels and pressure plates on escorts, imps and bmws.
thanks for any help (again).
Good news is that the head on the second new 1275 has 35mm inlets and 29 exhausts. Guess I'll need to remove an exhaust valve to see if it's unleaded.
Tried last night to check out the clutch friction plate and whilst the large bolt came out of the end of the crank, and the 6 bolts came out of the pressure plate, I cannot get the pressure plate off the flywheel.
Am I missing something, does the flywheel need to come off the engine first, is there an easy way of shifting it, usually been able to lever/tap/prise off flywheels and pressure plates on escorts, imps and bmws.
thanks for any help (again).
thanks Miniman but 10 mile north of Newcastle is nowhere near anyone.... Thought it should just "tap" off. So the flywheel/pressure plate needs to come off the car first before removing the pressure plate. So how would you check/replace the friction plate in situ? Will head out and buy/borrow a puller if needed.
Buy a decent one - Sykes-Pickavant do a good one. A friend bought a cheapie and it distorted first time he used it.
Now, I've got a Verto clutch question. Can anyone answer it?
If you fit a pre-verto flywheel and clutch assembly, but fit the Verto mechanism in its standard form, but with a pre-Verto thrust bearing, does this work? I am supposed to use the standard transmission in my enduro car, but vertos are so short-lived in competition that if I can fit the original flywheel/clutch I'll not have that problem. Has anyone ever tried this? I need to know really quickly as I'm starting the engine re-build next week.
Now, I've got a Verto clutch question. Can anyone answer it?
If you fit a pre-verto flywheel and clutch assembly, but fit the Verto mechanism in its standard form, but with a pre-Verto thrust bearing, does this work? I am supposed to use the standard transmission in my enduro car, but vertos are so short-lived in competition that if I can fit the original flywheel/clutch I'll not have that problem. Has anyone ever tried this? I need to know really quickly as I'm starting the engine re-build next week.
Tony,
The flat puller with 3 bolts is just what you need.
You'll get two types of bolt as the Verto has a different thread from the early type. Make sure you use the correct ones. It's very obvious where the bolts go - there are holes already there. I normally tighten up the puller without going too far with the torque, then I hit the other side of the assembly through the starter hole. Don't do what I did once, a long toime ago, and crack the flywheel casing with the hammer. Now I use a solid 2" diameter steel bar about 6" long to hold against the inside of the flywheel when I hit it. if it still doesn't come off tighten the puller bolt a bit more. If it still won't release, heat up the flywheel/crank with a blow-torch and hammer it again.
Let me know what the cam markings are and I'll look up to see what it is in my book.
Keep up the good work!
Peter
The flat puller with 3 bolts is just what you need.
You'll get two types of bolt as the Verto has a different thread from the early type. Make sure you use the correct ones. It's very obvious where the bolts go - there are holes already there. I normally tighten up the puller without going too far with the torque, then I hit the other side of the assembly through the starter hole. Don't do what I did once, a long toime ago, and crack the flywheel casing with the hammer. Now I use a solid 2" diameter steel bar about 6" long to hold against the inside of the flywheel when I hit it. if it still doesn't come off tighten the puller bolt a bit more. If it still won't release, heat up the flywheel/crank with a blow-torch and hammer it again.
Let me know what the cam markings are and I'll look up to see what it is in my book.
Keep up the good work!
Peter
Sagalout,
sorry to barge in on this thread,
I'm looking for the SP Puller too.. how much did Halfords charge you for it please ?
Cheers
Den
www.denlyonracing.com
sorry to barge in on this thread,
I'm looking for the SP Puller too.. how much did Halfords charge you for it please ?
Cheers
Den
www.denlyonracing.com
Den,
Somerford Mini (www.somerford-mini.co.uk) (01249 721421) keep them in stock and do next day delivery if that's any use to you...
Somerford Mini (www.somerford-mini.co.uk) (01249 721421) keep them in stock and do next day delivery if that's any use to you...
You cannot use a verto mechanism with an old style mini clutch. There isnt enough leverage to operate the old style cover, and if you could, there would be too much travel at the release bearing.
Verto style clutches have a habit of seizing cover to the flywheel. It can take a very long time in some cases to remove, even with a puller. Just make sure you dont strip the threads of the puller bolts. Hitting with a hammer through the starter hole can help, but sometimes it just takes time. That could mean hours, or a few days. Be patient.
Ive even had to cut a verto flywheel/clutch off with a grinder once. ( I dint have access to Oxy-acetyline, which may have helped as a last resort )
Verto style clutches have a habit of seizing cover to the flywheel. It can take a very long time in some cases to remove, even with a puller. Just make sure you dont strip the threads of the puller bolts. Hitting with a hammer through the starter hole can help, but sometimes it just takes time. That could mean hours, or a few days. Be patient.
Ive even had to cut a verto flywheel/clutch off with a grinder once. ( I dint have access to Oxy-acetyline, which may have helped as a last resort )
stevieturbo said:
Ive even had to cut a verto flywheel/clutch off with a grinder once. ( I dint have access to Oxy-acetyline, which may have helped as a last resort )
What really gets them stuck is people who replace the clutch and don't torque up the big bolt enough. The resulting movement causes fretting and the crank and flywheel literaly weld themselves together. My old mans Metro Turbo had this problem, and although we finaly removed the flywheel, the taper on the end of the crank was in a shocking state and had to be metal sprayed and reground.
Hi guys, my 1st post on here! got a question for you on this matter, i have a 1275cc metro engine (i believe) with a verto clutch, my problem is this, and probably asked a million times before, i fitted the engine to my mini without testing it first in the donor vehicle (also a mini) as i was lead to believe it was a good engine and box, upon installing the unit, bleeding the clutch and fitting it up ready to run, i tried the clutch but it woundnt engage gear properly, it would take afew minutes for it to engage gear fully so by the time you managed to change up a gear, you lost alot of speed, i then went about changing the master cylinder, clutch hose and slave cylinder, fully bled the clutch and now it doesnt engage at all, i adjusted the throw out to the correct adjustment, re-bled the clutch hydraulic system, but still the problem persists, could it be the pressure plate? (as i had a spare but rusty example which i compared it to) and noticed the pressure plate springs were flatter on the current pressure plate than of those on the rusted example, could these flattened springs be the reason the clutch isnt engaging? or could it be something more serious? i dont have a massive ammount of spare cash, so need to sort it in 1 swoop, than keep chucking money at it hoping the next thing i do solves the problem.
can anyone help?
cheers!!
lewis
can anyone help?
cheers!!
lewis
Cooperman said:
Tony,
The flat puller with 3 bolts is just what you need.
You'll get two types of bolt as the Verto has a different thread from the early type. Make sure you use the correct ones. It's very obvious where the bolts go - there are holes already there. I normally tighten up the puller without going too far with the torque, then I hit the other side of the assembly through the starter hole. Don't do what I did once, a long toime ago, and crack the flywheel casing with the hammer. Now I use a solid 2" diameter steel bar about 6" long to hold against the inside of the flywheel when I hit it. if it still doesn't come off tighten the puller bolt a bit more. If it still won't release, heat up the flywheel/crank with a blow-torch and hammer it again.
Let me know what the cam markings are and I'll look up to see what it is in my book.
Keep up the good work!
Peter
The usual reason for verto clutches sticking when you're trying to remove them is the puller is usually not on straight, make sure you put the same number of threads in each side.The flat puller with 3 bolts is just what you need.
You'll get two types of bolt as the Verto has a different thread from the early type. Make sure you use the correct ones. It's very obvious where the bolts go - there are holes already there. I normally tighten up the puller without going too far with the torque, then I hit the other side of the assembly through the starter hole. Don't do what I did once, a long toime ago, and crack the flywheel casing with the hammer. Now I use a solid 2" diameter steel bar about 6" long to hold against the inside of the flywheel when I hit it. if it still doesn't come off tighten the puller bolt a bit more. If it still won't release, heat up the flywheel/crank with a blow-torch and hammer it again.
Let me know what the cam markings are and I'll look up to see what it is in my book.
Keep up the good work!
Peter
But they can also weld themselves to the crank, if the previous owner/repairer did a poor job.
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