Driveshafts!!

[Fastpants]

Hello everyone.

Please can someone help me. I'm currently restoring my mini cooper. Im taking the engine out and I only have to disconnect the selector shaft from the diff, (Which I think I know how to do), and the drive shafts.

Its the driveshaft thats got me. The haynes manual is far to technical for me. Could someone please shed some light on easy ways to remove the driveshaft without using the specialised tool?

I'm being a bit cheeky now but I'm a bit stuck on the top and bottom ball joint on the front hub. I have removed the bolts which hasn't freed them, Do I need to remove them as if I was taking of shims?

Thanks

[miniman]

Driveshafts are easy - just use a tyre lever, or a big screwdriver. I tried to buy the "correct" tool once but the specialists all said just use a screwdriver or a chisel.

The gear linkage roll pin, however, can be an absolute bastard!

Re: ball joints - you need a ball joint splitter tool.

>> Edited by miniman on Saturday 12th November 18:13

[Fastpants]

Cheers Miniman. your a star.

Just one more question if you don't mind. The gear linkage roll pin, I which pin is it? I'm under the impression there are two, one horizontal and one vertical or am i looking in completely the wrong place?

Thanks again

[Cooperman]

If you put the car into reverse gear, the roll pin to remove is very obvious. Make sure you use the right sized pin punch - 3/16" from memory. I have one I ground down from an old screwdriver which is exactly the right size for the diff pin roll-pin removal and it does the gear linkage pin as well. It's funny, but I've never had any big problems with doing this. I think if you 'graunch' the pin to begin with it could become a problem, but with the right tool to begine with it should be OK.
As Miniman said, you must have a good ball-pin splitter to remove the top and bottom ball joints. The pivot type is best, although I once fractured one and had to use the wedge type. Wedge type is fine so long as you get a good quality one, otherwise the prongs can bend apart. With the wedge type, however, the rubber cup can easily spilt, so be prepared to change it. Anyway, if you are splitting the joints it's a good idea to re-shim or change the ball joints at the same time as they are usually worn and at about £7 per side it's cheap to do whilst the hub is off the car.
I hope this helps,

Peter

[love machine]

miniman said:

The gear linkage roll pin, however, can be an absolute bastard!

Or they might just drop out by themselves when you are driving (ever been stuck in 2nd gear?)

[danwebster]

A 4inch nail is the perfect fit for the roll pin in the gear linkage

[Mini1976]

Yeah my roll pun was an arse to get out so i now have a stainless steel bolt and no problems so far

[haynes]

Just the 2 jobs i hate when changing the engine. Roll pin has become easier with the select reverse and correct size punch advice. I think the drive shafts need a jolt to get the circlip to release, dunno i always find it more difficult that it should be. Oh and the other thing is separating the y piece on the LCB, arrgh.

[MR2Mike]

How old is the car?

If it's an original Cooper or Mk1 S it would have the old rubber coupling which has to have the U bolts removed rather than being popped out of the diff like the pot joints. The Mk2 S has the hardy spicer UJ's which bolt to a flange on the diff.