Looking for the problem
Discussion
Sorry, me again....
Despite threats to sell, burn, bury, run away from the little B, I have started pulling it apart....
Situation:
Oil all over the front end of the engine and below on the pot joint.
Breather on timing chain case smoking like a chimney.
Compressions 205/200/210/100(and getting less)
Emulsification in the rocker cover
No obvious scratches or marks on the bores (new 1500miles ago)
No obvious blow holes in the head gasket.
First thoughts were pressurised oil blown out of breather because of broken ring but why the emulsification, so could be h/gasket.
Now the gasket is a composite copper one and strangly it has "blued" around cylinders 1, 2, 3 but not 4 which has the reduced compression figure.
Gasket seems to have a fine flaky material over the copper face, like a laquer coming off.
Have filled cylinders 1 & 4 with oil to see if 4 drains away faster.
Wondering if a poorly seating valve could pressurise the crank/timing area but cannot see how except through a worn valve guide.
Scratching head...if anyone has any bright ideas, they would be greatly appreciated
Regards
Tony H
Despite threats to sell, burn, bury, run away from the little B, I have started pulling it apart....
Situation:
Oil all over the front end of the engine and below on the pot joint.
Breather on timing chain case smoking like a chimney.
Compressions 205/200/210/100(and getting less)
Emulsification in the rocker cover
No obvious scratches or marks on the bores (new 1500miles ago)
No obvious blow holes in the head gasket.
First thoughts were pressurised oil blown out of breather because of broken ring but why the emulsification, so could be h/gasket.
Now the gasket is a composite copper one and strangly it has "blued" around cylinders 1, 2, 3 but not 4 which has the reduced compression figure.
Gasket seems to have a fine flaky material over the copper face, like a laquer coming off.
Have filled cylinders 1 & 4 with oil to see if 4 drains away faster.
Wondering if a poorly seating valve could pressurise the crank/timing area but cannot see how except through a worn valve guide.
Scratching head...if anyone has any bright ideas, they would be greatly appreciated
Regards
Tony H
How much emulsified crap is there? A little can turn up anyway given the recent weather if the engine's not been run up to temp for a while. Otherwise, I'd go with knackered rings, as if the rocker cover's getting pressurised they blow out past the seal. Or mine did anyways!
Having said that, the A series is quite good at blowing oil out of every tiny hole you can think of, regardless of what's wrong.
Having said that, the A series is quite good at blowing oil out of every tiny hole you can think of, regardless of what's wrong.
Edited by Snake the Sniper on Monday 25th February 23:55
Low compression on one cylinder and timing cover breather 'like a chimney'(pressurised crankcase/gearbox) points to piston ring broken or cracked piston. It may be worth trying a compression test by sealing the top of each cylinder with a bit of MDF and some grease and see if No.4 cylinder still appears 'low' ie. the crank turns more easily when 4 is sealed as compared to 1,2 and 3. Best of luck.
Tony,
If you can not see any gasket failure evidence, you really have to pull the engine down to see what the problem is.
However, emulsification does suggest oil in the water, which is a classic symptom of gasket failure. I think I would get a BK450 composite gasket and just try it with that before going the whole hog and taking the lump out.
If you can not see any gasket failure evidence, you really have to pull the engine down to see what the problem is.
However, emulsification does suggest oil in the water, which is a classic symptom of gasket failure. I think I would get a BK450 composite gasket and just try it with that before going the whole hog and taking the lump out.
Back again...
The rocker cover is quite heavily emulsified, but yes the weather is pretty damp...however the car did 2 x 20 mile runs before I took the top off. Other than that it has been standing.
Poured oil into no 1 & 4 cylinders last night and it drains down through 4 quicker than 1...it's 4 that has the low compression.
Put petrol in the 4 head chambers and it seeped slowly down past the inlet valves of 3 & 4...
Would love to think that it was just a head gasket because the thought of hauling out the engine doesn't appeal especially as I will need to buy a crane. There aren't many tool hire places nearby and two round trips to pick one up drop it off will nearly buy me one.
Not sure the ref of the current head gasket but will try your recommendation Peter.
Thanks for all your guidance
Tony H
The rocker cover is quite heavily emulsified, but yes the weather is pretty damp...however the car did 2 x 20 mile runs before I took the top off. Other than that it has been standing.
Poured oil into no 1 & 4 cylinders last night and it drains down through 4 quicker than 1...it's 4 that has the low compression.
Put petrol in the 4 head chambers and it seeped slowly down past the inlet valves of 3 & 4...
Would love to think that it was just a head gasket because the thought of hauling out the engine doesn't appeal especially as I will need to buy a crane. There aren't many tool hire places nearby and two round trips to pick one up drop it off will nearly buy me one.
Not sure the ref of the current head gasket but will try your recommendation Peter.
Thanks for all your guidance
Tony H
Whilst it's not the most sensible method ever, the engine can come out with the help of two strong mates. I had the same dilemma when I needed to take my engine out. I found it easiest to unbolt the subframe and then merely lift the shell over the engine and walk it backwards a bit. You'll be surprised how light the shell is with no front end at all in it!
Cooperman said:
I think I would get a BK450 composite gasket and just try it with that before going the whole hog and taking the lump out.
Gasket ordered but getting the feeling that it is the rings as the oil in 4 has drained away whilst the oil in 1 is still in the cylinder......Drat, bother, oh dear etc.....
Oh for a Cortina GT. Just whip the head off - 30 minuts max; drain the oil and drop the sump - 20 minutes max; undo the big-end bolts, push the rod ass'y out of the top, change the rings and hone the bore - 30 minutes; and re-assemble - 90 minutes!
What pistons did you fit, Tony?
By the way, it can be cheaper to buy a new piston, c/w/ rings, than to but a ring set.
If, by chance, you have Hepolite 21253 pistons, I have a spare set of rings for a +0.060" size and a complete 21253 at +0.020" if either are any help.
What pistons did you fit, Tony?
By the way, it can be cheaper to buy a new piston, c/w/ rings, than to but a ring set.
If, by chance, you have Hepolite 21253 pistons, I have a spare set of rings for a +0.060" size and a complete 21253 at +0.020" if either are any help.
Peter, mention of a your Cortina GT is why I went looking at a RS 2000 at the weekend. Whilst not as easy to work on as an older crossflow Ford, they are a lot simpler than the mini because the engine gearbox splits in the car and you can drop the box in an hour or so and with the sump off you can do most other things.
But there again you already know that....
When I used to navigate for a friend in his Mk 2 Escort, or share the car in Autocross, we had to get the engine out a few times.
Discommect the pipes and wires, rad out, rope around the motor, 8foot length of timber across the engine bay, tie rope to it, remove wheels and lower car as low as poss, lift and separate as the advert used to say and out it came. Got it down to a fine art. Used a similar method on an MG Midget a couple of times too. Used to get my Imp engines out with a trolley jack, it was even easier because it was all aluminium. Even the Clan with the solid rear panel (as opposed to the removable one on the imp) was a doddle.
I'm afraid to say that, assuming it is rings, I am wavering between a) getting a fully built motor and possible gearbox as the existing one whilst working ok crunched occasionally into reverse and b) selling up and going back to Ford however they are currently the fashionable choice of motorsport and hence horrendously expensive.
If I rebuild this one again I need rings, and may as well get a proper dizzy and get the head converted to unleaded and flowed too. Need a timing chain cover, front plate, and a few of the threads on the block/clutch cover area are a bit iffy too so will need helicoiling or similar which all adds up.
Re the existing pistons, I think they were Hepolite, they were supplied by the Engineering Workshop that did the rebore. (Smiles Engineering in Newcastle, who usually do a good job, plug plug). Should be able to read the numbers on them tomorrow.
And finally, the new bathroom suite arrived today so for the next fortnight I shall be mostly plumbing and tiling....
But there again you already know that....
When I used to navigate for a friend in his Mk 2 Escort, or share the car in Autocross, we had to get the engine out a few times.
Discommect the pipes and wires, rad out, rope around the motor, 8foot length of timber across the engine bay, tie rope to it, remove wheels and lower car as low as poss, lift and separate as the advert used to say and out it came. Got it down to a fine art. Used a similar method on an MG Midget a couple of times too. Used to get my Imp engines out with a trolley jack, it was even easier because it was all aluminium. Even the Clan with the solid rear panel (as opposed to the removable one on the imp) was a doddle.
I'm afraid to say that, assuming it is rings, I am wavering between a) getting a fully built motor and possible gearbox as the existing one whilst working ok crunched occasionally into reverse and b) selling up and going back to Ford however they are currently the fashionable choice of motorsport and hence horrendously expensive.
If I rebuild this one again I need rings, and may as well get a proper dizzy and get the head converted to unleaded and flowed too. Need a timing chain cover, front plate, and a few of the threads on the block/clutch cover area are a bit iffy too so will need helicoiling or similar which all adds up.
Re the existing pistons, I think they were Hepolite, they were supplied by the Engineering Workshop that did the rebore. (Smiles Engineering in Newcastle, who usually do a good job, plug plug). Should be able to read the numbers on them tomorrow.
And finally, the new bathroom suite arrived today so for the next fortnight I shall be mostly plumbing and tiling....
Well, finally got around to trying the compressions after fitting the new h/gasket and no.4 is still half the reading of the other 3 cylinders.
So it's not the gasket, the valves look ok but I haven't re-lapped them, the oil drains out of no.4 faster than the other 3. Guess I need to go looking for a crane/hoist......
Got a stack of other jobs around the house & garage that need finishing so this may be a long term project. (abandoned in garage until further notice).
So it's not the gasket, the valves look ok but I haven't re-lapped them, the oil drains out of no.4 faster than the other 3. Guess I need to go looking for a crane/hoist......
Got a stack of other jobs around the house & garage that need finishing so this may be a long term project. (abandoned in garage until further notice).
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