Rear suspension

[vpr]

I need to replace the rear cones/rubber bits on my 2000 sport.

I thought it was a straight forward job but someone suggested I's need to get a compressor ro remove the existing item? Is this true or false?

Thanks

Edited by vpr on Thursday 7th August 10:37

[GTRMikie]

vpr said:

I need to replace the rear cones/rubber bits on my 2000 sport.

I thought it was a straight forward job but someone suggested I's need to get a compressor ro remove the existing item? Is this true or false?

Thanks

Edited by vpr on Thursday 7th August 10:37

You only need the compressor for the front cones. The rears are very easy to replace. Disconnect the shock absorbers, then the radius arms will drop down allowing the cones to be removed.

[DanGT]

If I remeber right you do have to undo the shock from above that dose mean removing the petrol tank. Not hard to do but you do have to take care (no smocking please). Drivers side no such problems.

[Tpfkalm]

Put them on ebay as hardened up cones are handy for those who don't want to wait for them to settle. I made the mistake of renewing my cones and I have the hilos wound right down and it still has a lot of ride height.

[Cooperman]

Maintenance tip of the month!:

Since removal of the petrol tank entails draining the system, the best way to access the damper top nuts is to cut a 4" x 3" hole in the vertical seat back panel. You can then drop out the damper without disturbing the petrol tank. Make up an aluminium plate to cover the hole and screw it in using either rivnuts or PK screws and bathroom sealer. You never see the plate with the seat fitted.
That is what virtually all rally Minis have so that rear dampers can be changed on an event in a few minutes. It makes it just so easy to change a damper or renew a ball joint at the end of the trumpet or even to alter the ride height.
I hope this helps.

Peter

[annodomini2]

Cooperman said:

Maintenance tip of the month!:

Since removal of the petrol tank entails draining the system, the best way to access the damper top nuts is to cut a 4" x 3" hole in the vertical seat back panel. You can then drop out the damper without disturbing the petrol tank. Make up an aluminium plate to cover the hole and screw it in using either rivnuts or PK screws and bathroom sealer. You never see the plate with the seat fitted.
That is what virtually all rally Minis have so that rear dampers can be changed on an event in a few minutes. It makes it just so easy to change a damper or renew a ball joint at the end of the trumpet or even to alter the ride height.
I hope this helps.

Peter

Suggestion: See if you can do a sticky article and put all these tips in there for people to reference, assuming you have time of course!

[vpr]

Thanks for the response.

I was lead to believe that the new cones would be harder and so limiting the amount of suspension travel thus illiminating the rubbing issue.

Oh well.

[aw51 121565]

I never drained the tank on my Mini - but I ran it very low to reduce its weight - before changing the n/s/r damper. 3 minutes to remove the tank clamp's lower bolt and wrestle the filler pipe through the wing, then resting the tank on the spare wheel, was all it took. Relocating the tank took a similar amount of time .

Corroded bolts on all four suspension members and in the front wheelarches, exposed to the elements, were the problem .

[DanGT]

In the past I have used a pipe clamp (the one used for brakes) to clamp the pipe from the tank. No draining required. You have to be carfull not spill any petral and also some of the pipes are very hard and wont clamp and may split.