10w40 or 20w50?
Discussion
I have a 1.3injection 98 Cooper. The manual says 10w40 part synthetic which I run. The problem is high oil usage - no leaks or noticeable blue smoke from the exhaust.
I have just bought some more 10w40 part synthetic Valvoline and noticed that they also do a 20w50 racing oil which looks like a mineral based oil.
Question: can I use the 20w50 in this car and will it damage the cat convertor or anything else more expensive like the gearbox, crank, ect.
Thanks in advance
I have just bought some more 10w40 part synthetic Valvoline and noticed that they also do a 20w50 racing oil which looks like a mineral based oil.
Question: can I use the 20w50 in this car and will it damage the cat convertor or anything else more expensive like the gearbox, crank, ect.
Thanks in advance
Forget what the manual says, if you want your gearbox to last any length of time then use a mineral 20w50 and change it regularly. The Valvoline oil is very good. This topic has been discussed many times in the past. If you do a search you will discover other recommended oils, such as Millers.
Experience from many has indicated that a synthetic oil is totally unsuitable for the Mini gearbox. An old expert once described modern thin synthetics as 'Weasel Piss'.
As has already been said, the Valvoline Racing 20/50 mineral is a great oil. The very best is Kendal 20/50, if you can find it. It is made from Pennsylvania Crude which is, apparently, far better than Saudi Crude (that's what I was told. However, it's expensive and Valvoline is a far better bet when considering value-for-money. Other good alternatives are Miller 20/50 and Morris Oils 15/50, all mineral oils.
I was told that when BMC were rallying the Mini, they had Castrol sponsorship, but before each rally they filled the Castrol cans with Kendall so that once on an event no-one would know.
As has already been said, the Valvoline Racing 20/50 mineral is a great oil. The very best is Kendal 20/50, if you can find it. It is made from Pennsylvania Crude which is, apparently, far better than Saudi Crude (that's what I was told. However, it's expensive and Valvoline is a far better bet when considering value-for-money. Other good alternatives are Miller 20/50 and Morris Oils 15/50, all mineral oils.
I was told that when BMC were rallying the Mini, they had Castrol sponsorship, but before each rally they filled the Castrol cans with Kendall so that once on an event no-one would know.
Cooperman said:
Experience from many has indicated that a synthetic oil is totally unsuitable for the Mini gearbox. An old expert once described modern thin synthetics as 'Weasel Piss'.
As has already been said, the Valvoline Racing 20/50 mineral is a great oil. The very best is Kendal 20/50, if you can find it. It is made from Pennsylvania Crude which is, apparently, far better than Saudi Crude (that's what I was told. However, it's expensive and Valvoline is a far better bet when considering value-for-money. Other good alternatives are Miller 20/50 and Morris Oils 15/50, all mineral oils.
I was told that when BMC were rallying the Mini, they had Castrol sponsorship, but before each rally they filled the Castrol cans with Kendall so that once on an event no-one would know.
Mineral oil being better than Castor Oil?As has already been said, the Valvoline Racing 20/50 mineral is a great oil. The very best is Kendal 20/50, if you can find it. It is made from Pennsylvania Crude which is, apparently, far better than Saudi Crude (that's what I was told. However, it's expensive and Valvoline is a far better bet when considering value-for-money. Other good alternatives are Miller 20/50 and Morris Oils 15/50, all mineral oils.
I was told that when BMC were rallying the Mini, they had Castrol sponsorship, but before each rally they filled the Castrol cans with Kendall so that once on an event no-one would know.
No chance, not without half a kilo of MOS2
If you go for a non made for mini oile (Miller has a oile made for minis) it can be worth putting in a gear box additive. This is more or less what Miller do. I have run some diffrent oils in my mini and found that with miller oil or a diffrent oil with gear box additive the gear change is better.
Tpfkalm said:
Cooperman said:
Experience from many has indicated that a synthetic oil is totally unsuitable for the Mini gearbox. An old expert once described modern thin synthetics as 'Weasel Piss'.
As has already been said, the Valvoline Racing 20/50 mineral is a great oil. The very best is Kendal 20/50, if you can find it. It is made from Pennsylvania Crude which is, apparently, far better than Saudi Crude (that's what I was told. However, it's expensive and Valvoline is a far better bet when considering value-for-money. Other good alternatives are Miller 20/50 and Morris Oils 15/50, all mineral oils.
I was told that when BMC were rallying the Mini, they had Castrol sponsorship, but before each rally they filled the Castrol cans with Kendall so that once on an event no-one would know.
Mineral oil being better than Castor Oil?As has already been said, the Valvoline Racing 20/50 mineral is a great oil. The very best is Kendal 20/50, if you can find it. It is made from Pennsylvania Crude which is, apparently, far better than Saudi Crude (that's what I was told. However, it's expensive and Valvoline is a far better bet when considering value-for-money. Other good alternatives are Miller 20/50 and Morris Oils 15/50, all mineral oils.
I was told that when BMC were rallying the Mini, they had Castrol sponsorship, but before each rally they filled the Castrol cans with Kendall so that once on an event no-one would know.
No chance, not without half a kilo of MOS2
The real problem is the gearbox. It's similar to a Morris Minor or A35 box in its basic design and both of those require an 80 or 90 weight oil.
Additives can also be a problem since, although they are OK for the engine, in a gearbox, they can prevent the syncro hubs and cones from syncronising properly and lead to early syncro failure.
Just stick with a really good 20/50 non-synthetic and you'll have no oil-related problems.
"What's the reason for not getting a synthetic ?"
Most synthetic oils are to thin. They don't work well with the gear box and comes out of every posible joint seal. With the correct addatives and on most minis topped up a lot they can work. But why use them when non or part synthetics work so well.
Most synthetic oils are to thin. They don't work well with the gear box and comes out of every posible joint seal. With the correct addatives and on most minis topped up a lot they can work. But why use them when non or part synthetics work so well.
DanGT said:
"What's the reason for not getting a synthetic ?"
Most synthetic oils are to thin. They don't work well with the gear box and comes out of every posible joint seal. With the correct addatives and on most minis topped up a lot they can work. But why use them when non or part synthetics work so well.
But a synthetic will stay in grade better and for longer than a non-synthetic, so if you can get a 20/50 synthetic would that not be better ?Most synthetic oils are to thin. They don't work well with the gear box and comes out of every posible joint seal. With the correct addatives and on most minis topped up a lot they can work. But why use them when non or part synthetics work so well.
Mobil have a Mobil 1 V-Twin oil which is marketed at V Twin motorbikes like Harleys. It's a 20/50 fully synthetic oil and being designed for a bike, has to cope with the gearbox sharing the engine oil, which is mentioned above as being a problem with most oils for Minis.
Would be interested to know if anybody has tried this.
Only reason I ask is I help a mate of mine with his mini and it sounds a bit tappety and the oil looks terrible when it comes out, really thin and black - when it goes in it's basic Castrol something or other. Have been looking around for a better quality oil to use.
Edited by Busa_Rush on Tuesday 4th August 16:41
I've only used a synthetic in my Cooper 'S' once. On one rally it did for the camshaft bearings, the oil pump, the syncro hubs and mains/big-end shells. I don't know what 'picked-up' first, but the damage cost me a small fortune in parts and a lot of my time.
'Weasel Piss' was how my machine-shop buddy referred to it.
I now stick with Valvoline 20w50 Racing and it's just the best you can get in this country. The best of all is the U.S. 'Kendall 20/50' which is blended from Pennsylvania crude oil, rather than Saudi crude. Why that's better I don't know, but it is.
'Weasel Piss' was how my machine-shop buddy referred to it.
I now stick with Valvoline 20w50 Racing and it's just the best you can get in this country. The best of all is the U.S. 'Kendall 20/50' which is blended from Pennsylvania crude oil, rather than Saudi crude. Why that's better I don't know, but it is.
I use motorcycle oil, i.e Silkolene 20/50 comp4 semi synthetic, have done for the last 15 years and use it on our Mini7 race engine units with outstanding reliability. High performance jap bikes have their gearboxes integral just like the Mini and this oil is designed for engine/gearbox use and perfect for the Mini
selbymsport said:
I use motorcycle oil, i.e Silkolene 20/50 comp4 semi synthetic, have done for the last 15 years and use it on our Mini7 race engine units with outstanding reliability. High performance jap bikes have their gearboxes integral just like the Mini and this oil is designed for engine/gearbox use and perfect for the Mini
That's what I was going to suggest to him, nice to know it's worth tryiny, thanks.Gassing Station | Classic Minis | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff