Waht to do with play in the rear radius arm?
Discussion
Ive got some play at the inside of one of the rear raidus arms. Wondering what it'll take to sort it? Is it a case of a complete new arm or can the bearing be replaced. Is it a specialist job to fit the bearing, ie does it need reaming or are they difficult to get off / back on?
I think its too much play to sort with a re-grease.
I think its too much play to sort with a re-grease.
Hi there,
I used to own & run a mini specialists garage and we used to do these jobs on a regular basis.
It is not an easy job and could easily turn pearshaped.
The easiest way to sort this would be to get a recon arm from one of the mini specialists,if fitting yourself allow at least a couple of hours (without robs),the bolts holding the outer bracket to the subframe are prone to shearing off,if this happens they will require drilling out & re-tap the thread to 5/16 unf,also the captive nuts in the sills can turn with the bolt and the only way to sort this out would be to cut a hole in the sill to get to the captive nut, remove & reweld.
Hope this helps.
$
I used to own & run a mini specialists garage and we used to do these jobs on a regular basis.
It is not an easy job and could easily turn pearshaped.
The easiest way to sort this would be to get a recon arm from one of the mini specialists,if fitting yourself allow at least a couple of hours (without robs),the bolts holding the outer bracket to the subframe are prone to shearing off,if this happens they will require drilling out & re-tap the thread to 5/16 unf,also the captive nuts in the sills can turn with the bolt and the only way to sort this out would be to cut a hole in the sill to get to the captive nut, remove & reweld.
Hope this helps.
$
It's a very straightforward job so long as you have a longish 13/16" reamer.
Disconnect the brake pipe, disconnect the handbrake cable, undo the top and bottom damper bolts to allow the arm to drop down. Undo the big nuts at each end of the radius arm pin. Remove the 4 off 5/16" UNF bolts holding the radius arm bracket to the subframe (as mentioned, if the ones into the trapped nuts shear off you have another problem to address).
Once the arm is off and on the bench, withdraw the centre pin. You then have to drive out the needle roller bearing at one end and the plain bronze bush at the other end. This can be a bit tricky. I usually break the needles out then, with only the outer casing left, I use a small diameter grinding wheel in a die-grinder or electric drill to thin-out the casing in one place. When it's thin you can get a sharp centre-punch and 'persuade' it out. To get the bronze bush out, which is the bush which is causing the play, again you can drive a sharp centre punch down between the bush and the arm. alternatively, use a small rotary file to thin it at one place and do as you did with the roller bearing casing. It's not as difficult as I might have made it sound. It just needs a bit of perseverence.
When re-assembling, don't forget the plasstic tube which goes between the inner and outer bearings. Take care fitting the needle roller bush as you must not just hit the end of it. To fit it, use a socket the same diameter as the outside diameter of the bush and tap the end of the bearing with it. Don't squash the needles inside this bearing!
After fitting the bronze bush, you ream it with the 13/16"reamer entering from the roller bearing side to ensure correct alignment. Wash it all out with paraffin and then grease and fit the new long pin with the grease nipple in the outer end (get this the right way around).
Then just re-install the arm, bleed out the brakes, grease the arm and off you go.
A new kit is about £7-50. Go on, give it a go yourself.
Good luck with this,
Peter
Disconnect the brake pipe, disconnect the handbrake cable, undo the top and bottom damper bolts to allow the arm to drop down. Undo the big nuts at each end of the radius arm pin. Remove the 4 off 5/16" UNF bolts holding the radius arm bracket to the subframe (as mentioned, if the ones into the trapped nuts shear off you have another problem to address).
Once the arm is off and on the bench, withdraw the centre pin. You then have to drive out the needle roller bearing at one end and the plain bronze bush at the other end. This can be a bit tricky. I usually break the needles out then, with only the outer casing left, I use a small diameter grinding wheel in a die-grinder or electric drill to thin-out the casing in one place. When it's thin you can get a sharp centre-punch and 'persuade' it out. To get the bronze bush out, which is the bush which is causing the play, again you can drive a sharp centre punch down between the bush and the arm. alternatively, use a small rotary file to thin it at one place and do as you did with the roller bearing casing. It's not as difficult as I might have made it sound. It just needs a bit of perseverence.
When re-assembling, don't forget the plasstic tube which goes between the inner and outer bearings. Take care fitting the needle roller bush as you must not just hit the end of it. To fit it, use a socket the same diameter as the outside diameter of the bush and tap the end of the bearing with it. Don't squash the needles inside this bearing!
After fitting the bronze bush, you ream it with the 13/16"reamer entering from the roller bearing side to ensure correct alignment. Wash it all out with paraffin and then grease and fit the new long pin with the grease nipple in the outer end (get this the right way around).
Then just re-install the arm, bleed out the brakes, grease the arm and off you go.
A new kit is about £7-50. Go on, give it a go yourself.
Good luck with this,
Peter
Edited by Cooperman on Thursday 25th September 17:01
Edited by Cooperman on Thursday 25th September 17:04
Gassing Station | Classic Minis | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff