Freelander 1 TD4 facelift (post 2003)
Freelander 1 TD4 facelift (post 2003)
Author
Discussion

craggers

Original Poster:

2,496 posts

308 months

Tuesday 17th January 2012
quotequote all
I'm pretty tempted to have one, What to look out for ? Any issues.

camel_landy

5,414 posts

207 months

Tuesday 17th January 2012
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Check out the condition of the IRD unit & viscous coupling (Google will help... wink ).

As it is the TD4 (BMW unit), be aware of oil coming out of the dipstick!!!! This is a sign that the crank case breather filter hasn't been changed and needs doing ASAP.

Oh... and make sure you get an auto. smile

M

craggers

Original Poster:

2,496 posts

308 months

Wednesday 18th January 2012
quotequote all
camel_landy said:
Check out the condition of the IRD unit & viscous coupling (Google will help... wink ).

As it is the TD4 (BMW unit), be aware of oil coming out of the dipstick!!!! This is a sign that the crank case breather filter hasn't been changed and needs doing ASAP.

Oh... and make sure you get an auto. smile

M
Why auto ? From what I'm reading that auto's MPG is much less than Manual's.

JABB

3,609 posts

260 months

Wednesday 25th January 2012
quotequote all
camel_landy said:
Check out the condition of the IRD unit & viscous coupling (Google will help... wink ).

As it is the TD4 (BMW unit), be aware of oil coming out of the dipstick!!!! This is a sign that the crank case breather filter hasn't been changed and needs doing ASAP.

Oh... and make sure you get an auto. smile

M
I would be keen to know too.

A.J.M

8,332 posts

210 months

Wednesday 25th January 2012
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The only reason i can think of is the slave cylinder in the manual td4 is inside the gearbox and is a near 7 hour job to change as they can fail. Mine has.

Otherwise, check the locking area in the boot, if the carpets wet, the back door seal is leaking and needs changed. Can be a common issue. New seal fixes it.
Check its got its propshaft in place, if its removed, its for a reason. Usually because the VCU has packed in and this can also damage the IRD unit and the rear diff mounts.

Spec to go for is SE or HSE. There are other specs but these both offer the best kit and tbh, the only issue with the SE spec i have, is the air con needs a re gas and the heated front windscreen needs changed as some of the lines are duff.

Otherwise, just check the best tyres are on the rear of the car, everything works inside and out. They have been out for a while and any problems are online with a google search for the answers.

Had mine for 3 years and 31k, had a few issues due to previous owner not looking after it and a garage screwing me over big time. Ive had all of the known issues sorted. VCU/IRD and slave cylinder changed.

Mine returns about 34-44mpg depending on where im driving. Around town only brings it lower, motorways higher. Great in snow, wet weather and for off roading, light weight with decent tyres and the VCU working properly coupled with a clever traction control means you can get further in "green ice" than some of the bigger models.

3 mods you have to do.
Egr blanking kit. £56.
Silicone hose replacement, £106
Bmw Crankcase replacement, buy from BMW main dealer, about £50. Means you dont have to replace the crankcase breather filter every 12k.

Buy a good one with history and files to back it up and enjoy it.

camel_landy

5,414 posts

207 months

Thursday 26th January 2012
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The autos are kinder to the rest of the drive train (especially the rear diff mounts!!). Also, if you ever plan to take it off tarmac, the auto does a great job of compensating for the lack of a low range gearbox.

M

JABB

3,609 posts

260 months

Thursday 26th January 2012
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A.J.M said:
Spec to go for is SE or HSE. There are other specs but these both offer the best kit and tbh, the only issue with the SE spec i have, is the air con needs a re gas and the heated front windscreen needs changed as some of the lines are duff.
Do you not rate the sport or sport premium then in trim. I was leaning towards the premium or HSE.

A.J.M

8,332 posts

210 months

Thursday 26th January 2012
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JABB said:
A.J.M said:
Spec to go for is SE or HSE. There are other specs but these both offer the best kit and tbh, the only issue with the SE spec i have, is the air con needs a re gas and the heated front windscreen needs changed as some of the lines are duff.
Do you not rate the sport or sport premium then in trim. I was leaning towards the premium or HSE.
When i was looking for mine, and helping a mate find a freeby.

The sports trim levels were all over the place. Some had cloth seats, some half leather/alcantra, some full leather. Some had roof rails, others didnt, some had parking sensors, some didnt. Some had heated front screens, some didnt, some had heated seats, some didnt.

I found a black 3 door that had everything but the dealer wouldnt return my calls or emails. And cardiff is a long way from glasgow to travel to find its gone etc. So i bought another SE as i knew it had the spec i wanted.

Check the spec between the sport and the HSE, you may find that dispite the sport being the dearer trip at new, doesnt come with all the kit of the HSE. Also mind that some auto td4s fall into the £450 road tax, others are £260 a year. Mine is the cheaper one.

stuwalsh

225 posts

177 months

Thursday 26th January 2012
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I've got a Td4 Sport Auto and it's a great car. Conti's are the best tyres for the car 30k fronts!