1983 Range Rover Classic Auto Torque Converter Problem
Discussion
Hi All
I recently bought a 1983 RR Auto (with the Chrysler Torqueflite box). The torque converter appears to be playing up - very poor take-up from standstill then takes up through the gears fine. The fluid is currently clear but its not getting any better.
Auto specialists are quoting £1,000 - £1,500 to either supply & fit a recon box or to re-build the existing one which is, well, £1,500. Anyone got any ideas/recommendations for a simpler/cheaper fix?
I recently bought a 1983 RR Auto (with the Chrysler Torqueflite box). The torque converter appears to be playing up - very poor take-up from standstill then takes up through the gears fine. The fluid is currently clear but its not getting any better.
Auto specialists are quoting £1,000 - £1,500 to either supply & fit a recon box or to re-build the existing one which is, well, £1,500. Anyone got any ideas/recommendations for a simpler/cheaper fix?
I am about to take out the lovely engine and gearbox from my defender and replace with Chevy 5.7 and 4-speed auto from Overfinch
You can have the engine, all the ancilliaries, hotwire EFI and ECU, 3-speed torqueflite with converter and the transfer box in you want, for 1200 pounds. You could put your inlet and carbs on also, but they are much better in hotwire.
All you would need is a new set of free-flow headers(exhaust manifolds) which will set you back about £300.
If you just want the gearbox and converter you can have it for 300 pounds.
As it's still in the car and on the road you can test drive it.
I also have a low-miles 4-speed gearbox sitting in a 4.2LSE if you want to upgrade - my landrover man can do that for you.
The engine has only done 24000 miles since full rebuild with all top-grade internals, TVR heads and high-torque cam - the whole package will transform the performance of you RR.
Give me an email via my profile
Victor
You can have the engine, all the ancilliaries, hotwire EFI and ECU, 3-speed torqueflite with converter and the transfer box in you want, for 1200 pounds. You could put your inlet and carbs on also, but they are much better in hotwire.
All you would need is a new set of free-flow headers(exhaust manifolds) which will set you back about £300.
If you just want the gearbox and converter you can have it for 300 pounds.
As it's still in the car and on the road you can test drive it.
I also have a low-miles 4-speed gearbox sitting in a 4.2LSE if you want to upgrade - my landrover man can do that for you.
The engine has only done 24000 miles since full rebuild with all top-grade internals, TVR heads and high-torque cam - the whole package will transform the performance of you RR.
Give me an email via my profile
Victor
pk500 said:
get some one to sit in it with foot on the brake run through all the gears then check level when warm and in drive !
Finally got round to checking it as you said and the level dropped from full to abot 1/2 inch under the "Add one pint" line on the dipstick!ClaphamGT3 said:
Thanks for the tip - I'll try that
Do I top it up to full when running in DRIVE or just add a bit?
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