freelander 1.8 petrol,any good?
Discussion
Just got a new dog so looking at getting some wheels for when I take him out.
I have spotted an 02 plate freelander petrol with a 1.8 petrol engine,119k,fsh,good spec etc.
what's the main thing to check with these,I know the usual of body work,hgf,rust,underneath etc,was wondering if there's anything that's prone to failure specifically with these ?
Thanks in advance.
I have spotted an 02 plate freelander petrol with a 1.8 petrol engine,119k,fsh,good spec etc.
what's the main thing to check with these,I know the usual of body work,hgf,rust,underneath etc,was wondering if there's anything that's prone to failure specifically with these ?
Thanks in advance.
The only thing specific to the 1.8 is the overheating. Various mods are available but TBH they're just big sticky plasters and don't really solve the problems.
Otherwise, it's just the usual Freelander niggles:
M
Otherwise, it's just the usual Freelander niggles:
- IRD
- VCU
- Centre bearings
- Tyre wear
- Rear diff bushes
- Window mechanisms
- Tailgate door handle
M
Picked it up Monday evening,despite the mileage(120k) it still feels nice and tight,no issues with the suspension,already had the updated head gasket done and full main dealer history from day one.needs the two rear window regulators and the tail gate regulator and a heated rear window switch,apart from that it seems a straight motor.
where's the best place for the above parts?
And is there a way of finding the radio code as that seems to be missing from the service book?
thanks.
where's the best place for the above parts?
And is there a way of finding the radio code as that seems to be missing from the service book?
thanks.
my missus had a k-series gaylander, and to be fair it was a good car. Ours had an engine replacement just before we bought it.. low coolant, owner drove it till it stopped !!!
The only problem we everhad was was the water leak behind the trim above the tailgate.
which manifests its self with wet seat belts !!!
I took the trim off, new plastic plugs and a bead of silicone to direct water away from them and it never leaked again.
a good spot it misted windows, if its got them then there will probably be water in the under floor storage and wet seatbelts.
I was actaully really impressed with the handing on the gaylander, you could really hustle it and get a nice 4 wheel drift on it. I always fancied track daying it.
G
The only problem we everhad was was the water leak behind the trim above the tailgate.
which manifests its self with wet seat belts !!!
I took the trim off, new plastic plugs and a bead of silicone to direct water away from them and it never leaked again.
a good spot it misted windows, if its got them then there will probably be water in the under floor storage and wet seatbelts.
I was actaully really impressed with the handing on the gaylander, you could really hustle it and get a nice 4 wheel drift on it. I always fancied track daying it.
G
crispian22 said:
Picked it up Monday evening,despite the mileage(120k) it still feels nice and tight,no issues with the suspension,already had the updated head gasket done and full main dealer history from day one.needs the two rear window regulators and the tail gate regulator and a heated rear window switch,apart from that it seems a straight motor.
where's the best place for the above parts?
And is there a way of finding the radio code as that seems to be missing from the service book?
thanks.
Ebay for parts - very cheap mostly.where's the best place for the above parts?
And is there a way of finding the radio code as that seems to be missing from the service book?
thanks.
If you mean the window tailgate regulator - just get a regulator + rail kit off a scrappy - window has to come out to do it, but easy. If the rear window isnt working/in the up position the heated rear window + wiper wont work.
It's common for the wires in the window regulators to corrode and then snap. When it comes to fixing, there are 2x options:
- If you replace the entire regulator, it is a really simple job but the rear regulator can be expensive.
- If you fix by changing the wires, it is fairly cheap but can be fiddly and a PITA!!
Skyedriver said:
Bit of a thread hijack here...
There seems to be a lot of these for sale with engine troubles and no prop.
The rest of the car looks good usually.
Whats the SP on fixing the engine, replacing it, the 2WD syndrome
Is 25mpg about normal or could I improve on that?
If you Google "Rover K series head gasket", that should give you a fair idea of the problems with the engine and how to 'fix'.There seems to be a lot of these for sale with engine troubles and no prop.
The rest of the car looks good usually.
Whats the SP on fixing the engine, replacing it, the 2WD syndrome
Is 25mpg about normal or could I improve on that?
The 2WD side of things is caused by a combination of IRD failure brought on by VC failure. Most people decide on the 2WD approach when they see a quote for repair!!
M
Skyedriver said:
I know of the K series ills, but also know K Seal (lasting well on an old Volvo motor 40K miles so far)
IRD?
VC?
Presume these are transfer boxes?
Is a one with decent body/interior worth taking on, at any price?
Not at any price. If you find one with a knackered engine, IRD & VC, you might as well just weigh it in for scrap!!IRD?
VC?
Presume these are transfer boxes?
Is a one with decent body/interior worth taking on, at any price?
The IRD is what powers the rear wheels... There is no transfer box on the Freelander.
VC = Viscous Coupling...
M
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