advice on 04 freelander
Discussion
thought it might be a good idea to come to the people in the know about landrovers having never owned one myself. I am looking at getting a 2004 freelander 57k miles, 2 owners, drove nicely without any out of the ordinary noises to note, full service history, of which I took down:
cambelt changed in 2010, front disks and pads changed in 2009, oil and filter changed 2012.
it is due a service now, has 9 months mot left, and needs to be taxed at the end of this month, asking price is £3495.
what do you all think?
cheers
nick
cambelt changed in 2010, front disks and pads changed in 2009, oil and filter changed 2012.
it is due a service now, has 9 months mot left, and needs to be taxed at the end of this month, asking price is £3495.
what do you all think?
cheers
nick
gt500nick said:
thought it might be a good idea to come to the people in the know about landrovers having never owned one myself. I am looking at getting a 2004 freelander 57k miles, 2 owners, drove nicely without any out of the ordinary noises to note, full service history, of which I took down:
cambelt changed in 2010, front disks and pads changed in 2009, oil and filter changed 2012.
it is due a service now, has 9 months mot left, and needs to be taxed at the end of this month, asking price is £3495.
what do you all think?
cheers
nick
Sounds about right to me, and I'm looking for something similar as my wife has decided that she want's one - I'm looking for a facelift SE / HSE if I can find one that's not at the other end of the countrycambelt changed in 2010, front disks and pads changed in 2009, oil and filter changed 2012.
it is due a service now, has 9 months mot left, and needs to be taxed at the end of this month, asking price is £3495.
what do you all think?
cheers
nick
You're aware of the viscous coupling / IRD issues, and how to avoid them, presumably?
smn159 said:
Sounds about right to me, and I'm looking for something similar as my wife has decided that she want's one - I'm looking for a facelift SE / HSE if I can find one that's not at the other end of the country
You're aware of the viscous coupling / IRD issues, and how to avoid them, presumably?
how do you avoid them?You're aware of the viscous coupling / IRD issues, and how to avoid them, presumably?
gt500nick said:
how do you avoid them?
My limited research suggests that you need to check carefully that the VC isn't seized, maybe by reversing slowly on full lock and checking for any untoward noises, and if it is change it before it destroys the IRD. Check also that the prop shaft hasn't been removed to mask a transmission fault - believe that it will still drive as a 2wd car without the prop in place.
Never had one myself though so this is internet wisdom only, i'm afraid...
Good luck!
Use Google to familiarise yourself with the following:
FWIW - The FL1 is a cracking car, the TD4 Auto being by far the best.
M
- IRD
- Viscous Coupling
- Tyre wear
- TD4 Crank case oil filter (a lot of non-Franchise places miss this)
FWIW - The FL1 is a cracking car, the TD4 Auto being by far the best.
M
You don't mention if it's a petrol or diesel, but the Td4 diesel is chain driven.
Having owned 2, you want a td4, auto with SE spec minimum.
Manual's suffer from clutch issues over time and the slave cylinder is a gearbox out job and 6-7 hours labour.. ask me how i know this..
New master cylinder from LR is £137, slave is similar. Personal experience says get genuine, pattern parts are not worth the hassle for the small savings..
5 doors are more practical but the boots are small in either 3 or 5 door, big enough for a few suitcases or a labrador though.
They handle well and can be thrown down a road with vigor, i used to take my remapped td4 3 door on Scottish PH runs and wasn't the slowest there.
If the cubby box in the boot has a wet carpet, you need a new boot seal.
The air con can need regassed every couple of years, the heated windscreen can have elements that fail over time, only an issue in winter, but i'm sure you'll pick up a stone chip so will have to renew the screen before then...
Grumbly propshaft bearings can be replaced for GKN parts from foundry 4x4 for about £40-50. These are the best replacements for them.
Get good tyres and the best GO ON THE BACK! That helps the drive train and helps the VCU. M+S rated ones are good enough for dealing with snow etc.
I would say my old one is better in snow for some driving than my Disco3 i bought to replace it.
The lighter weight, and less body roll was made it a great car for snow, the TC system is very cleaver and will find grip and keep moving when you really thought it was going to be stuck. Deep snow is the only issue as they don't have the best ground clearance. Oh and you can donut them till you get bored in car parks with a covering of snow.
The Disco can get further in deep snow and is a far better tower for shifting stuck cars due to it's weight.
Having owned 2, you want a td4, auto with SE spec minimum.
Manual's suffer from clutch issues over time and the slave cylinder is a gearbox out job and 6-7 hours labour.. ask me how i know this..
New master cylinder from LR is £137, slave is similar. Personal experience says get genuine, pattern parts are not worth the hassle for the small savings.. 5 doors are more practical but the boots are small in either 3 or 5 door, big enough for a few suitcases or a labrador though.
They handle well and can be thrown down a road with vigor, i used to take my remapped td4 3 door on Scottish PH runs and wasn't the slowest there.
If the cubby box in the boot has a wet carpet, you need a new boot seal.
The air con can need regassed every couple of years, the heated windscreen can have elements that fail over time, only an issue in winter, but i'm sure you'll pick up a stone chip so will have to renew the screen before then...
Grumbly propshaft bearings can be replaced for GKN parts from foundry 4x4 for about £40-50. These are the best replacements for them.
Get good tyres and the best GO ON THE BACK! That helps the drive train and helps the VCU. M+S rated ones are good enough for dealing with snow etc.
I would say my old one is better in snow for some driving than my Disco3 i bought to replace it.
The lighter weight, and less body roll was made it a great car for snow, the TC system is very cleaver and will find grip and keep moving when you really thought it was going to be stuck. Deep snow is the only issue as they don't have the best ground clearance. Oh and you can donut them till you get bored in car parks with a covering of snow.
The Disco can get further in deep snow and is a far better tower for shifting stuck cars due to it's weight.
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